Glow plugs November 2009

[rogers]

I know there have been many, many discussions about glow plugs in the past, but there seem to be a lot more choices available lately. So, I thought it might be worthwhile to talk about some of the options. Here's a list of the plugs that I am currently aware of:


Kennedy's quick heat (http://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=30) Bosch Duraterm (http://www.heathdiesel.com/P/HDP1388/) eDam (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-5L-6-2L-CHEVY-DIESEL-GMC-GLOW-PLUG-PLUGS-6-2-6-5-PMD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad4a2b58eQQitemZ39 0114489742QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories) New improved? Wellman G050 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-5-L-6-2-L-Diesel-Fast-Start-Glowplugs-Glow-Plugs-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2555ba819aQQitemZ16 0352076186QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories) Delphi HDS309 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Diesel-6-5-6-5L-Glow-Plug-92-02_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem23028ede19QQitemZ150 366772761QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories) Autolite (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Autolite+/+Glow+Plug&categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=33430_122413_0_&productId=33430&sortType=&parentId=49-0&filterByKeyWord=glow+plug&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14900606&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=606-0&displayName=Glow+Plug&store=1190&searchText=glow+plug&brandName=Autolite) Autolite Quick Heat (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Autolite+/+Glow+Plug&categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=33433_122412_0_&productId=33433&sortType=&parentId=49-0&filterByKeyWord=glow+plug&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14900606&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=606-0&displayName=Glow+Plug&store=1190&searchText=glow+plug&brandName=Autolite) BWD (http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=21102&PartType=9&PTSet=A) Niehoff (http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=21102&PartType=9&PTSet=A) AC Delco 60g (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-60G-Glow-Plug/dp/B000C9N54C) AC Delco 11g AC Delco 9G

Feel free to add and discuss others. Now, is there anyone that can give some information, good or bad, on any of these? I wait with baited breath.:rolleyes:

[Robyn]

I would say this.

Most of the major brands that fall into the same clasification as the 60G plugs will likely work fine (autolite, champion ect)

I personally will use the 60G plugs as they seem to have a solid track record.

The quick heats make me nervous. If you get one that goes south and then swells, the task at hand is just nasty.

I used the 60G plugs on DaHooooley this summer when I put it back together.

The Bosch duraterm plugs are probably not a bad choice either.

The issues that many face when their little GM diesel starts having issues with cold starts is in many cases not related to the glow plugs but more with the injector POP pressure and spray patterns going south.

I have personally seen many 6.5's that started very hard and tossed up voluminous clouds of smoke upon a cold start.

The glow plugs were all working, it was just a set of injectors that were peeing a stream instead of spraying a fine mist.

The science of glow plugs for these engines is fairly simple.

If it gets reasonably red over most of the plug from the tip to the middle and the injectors are doing what they should be, the engine will start right up clean.

Having to hijack the glow controler to get a longer glow so the rig will start is usually not caused by bad glow plugs but instead worn out injectors.


The one exception is when these engines are fitted with 18:1 pistons

These little buggers can get a tad honery on a cold start.

More glow time helps out with the 18:1 engines.

My preference on an 18:1 engine would be to up the pop pressure on the injectors to the very top of the specs and make sure they are sprayig a very clean fine mist pattern.

Some folks will rebuild their engine and the skimp on the injectors and the IP.

Having an IP (DB2) thats not advancing enough when cold (CCA) will also lead to poor cold starting qualities and lots of smoke.

On used engines, timing chain slop retards the injection timing some and during a cold start this can negate the extra advance thats cranked in for the cold start up.

On The DS series stuff, the electronics will kick in the extra advance needed.
A poor coolant temp sensor can cause the advance not to work right.

Many items can cause issues that get blamed on the glow plugs

Compression
Injector pop pressure
Injector spray pattern
Injection timing and cold advance.
Type of fuel being used
( some folks are cooking their own goodies to stoke the fire with)

The poor little glow plug gets blamed far too much for starting issues.


My vote goes to the 60G Delco plugs. Available almost everywhere.


Missy

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Bosch DuraTerm is what I got. They've survived some starting aids and are still going well.

[rogers]

Bosch DuraTerm is what I got. They've survived some starting aids and are still going well.

Have you had others in the past? How do they compare? Are the Duraterms worth 2x the money?

[roizpatagonia]

Hello to everyone, I'm new at this forum so I introduce myself and salute you all.
Does anyone have pictures or can tell me where I can get them about the Glow Plugs replacement procedure? Is it indispensable to take away the Turbo to change the passenger's side GP's? If so can you tell me where can I get the Turbo gaskets? I looked up in Rock Auto but couldn't find. Any help will be appreciated.
Best Regards

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

rogers, i had autolites before. they didn't last to long.
we had some in our 95 from SSD. they lasted a few months, literally. i have been running the boschs in my 93 for a while, and just more recently in the 95. i think that i would reccomend them, but there is also going to be others out there that i am sure are equally good. as for paying two times as much for another plug, is it going to last twice as long while delivering consistent starting?

and to our friend who has a hard name to spell. ;) welcome to TDP. when your doing those plugs, take off the right front tire and the inner skirt. it will make life much easier for you. if you are okay with removing the turbo, it will make it easy, but will add extra time for turbo removal

[roizpatagonia]

Thank you, very kind. The name is easy,Roiz pronounces like Royce and Patagonia like the Clothes brand. But if you like Fly Fishing or Nature you only have to come down here once and will remember for ever ( Check the videos of Mel Krieger an American who has came for 40 years to fish this lakes ).You are all invited:). As for the GP any special tool needed? Regards, Daniel

[Robyn]

There are no gaskets on the turbo.
The turbo to manifold surface is metal to metal and the down pipe to outlet flange is also gasket free.

No need to remove the turbo to get at the glow plugs. As was mentioned.
Jack the Right corner up and remove the tire/wheel. (Block the rig for safety)

Remove the rubber inner fender splash flap and the glow plugs are right on front of you.

Now this said, you will still need to remove the retaining nuts on the heat shield tubes on the middle two plugs to access the wire connectors.

Remove the nuts, slide the tube out on the wire and this will allow you to reach the connector.

You can now get a socket on the plug using an extension and a small wratchet.

The very back plug is a tad different.

To get to this one you will need to lay under the rig and reach up around the downpipe to get to the plug.

Having some good light under there really helps too.

Use some never seaze on the threads of the new plugs when installing the new plugs.

Reinstall the plugs. Now to get the wires back on the center two, just slide the heat shield tubes onto the wire and back as far as you can, plug the connector onto the glow plug and then slide the tube back in and onto the studs.

There is no reason to undo any of the turbo mounts or anything up on top to do this job.

Replace the rubber flap, the tire/wheel and your done.


Robyn

[Subzilla]

"Never Sieze" on the glow plugs?? I thought this would/could keep the plugs from making electrical contact with the block. Just wondering....

[DmaxMaverick]

"Never Sieze" on the glow plugs?? I thought this would/could keep the plugs from making electrical contact with the block. Just wondering....

Never Seize (Anti-Seize) is a metal powder paste, and is conductive. Not an insulator. It can, in most cases, improve conductivity, especially over time when corrosion starts to decrease conductivity in the threads. I recommend a nickel based Anti-Seize rather than a copper or aluminum based. Copper/aluminum can, in some high temp cases, cause the threads to "solder" together, and actually make removal more difficult. The labels will usually indicate whether they are "high temp", or not. Always use a nickel based Anti-Seize with stainless steel threads.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

definetely make sure it is a high heat never-seez. i love this stuff, and put it on almost everything. if you are planning on keeping your rig for a while, and figure you will be doing glows somewhere down the road, put some on. you don't always need it, but better to plan for and be ready for a sticky plug, than to sit there busting your knuckles cause the stupid thing won't turn!

to roiz, where is down here?

[Subzilla]

I never knew that about the Anti-Seeze! I'll have to look when I get home and see which version I have. Thanks for the info. I do use it on a bunch of stuff but it seems like I once read somewhere not to use it on GP's - bad info.

[DmaxMaverick]

Of all the places it should be used on any engine, spark plugs, glow plugs and injectors are at the TOP of the list. This is especially important if the head and plug is of different metals. We would never have to repair spark plug holes in aluminum heads, if anti-seize was used every time. On older engines, in past years, spark plugs were replaced regularly every 20-30K miles. Now, tune-ups are at 100K+ intervals on late models. Many mfg's are installing plugs with anti-seize at the factory, but many shops don't. Although, I'm seeing it more often lately in the independent shops.

[Inspector]

I remember (and Jim if you read this thread jump in) that we sat around in Jims garage in Stevensville and hooked a battery charger up to a G60 plug. I glowed red for so long that we got tired of waiting for it to bulge or burn out that we just turned it off and went and did something else. The G60 is a very good plug and in my opinion is good enough for the girls I go with. They are still going strong in the 93 that my son has now. Been in there for the last ten years.
Denny

[DaveNY]

A little trick I use when installing GPs is a 6 in length of vacuum hose pushed over the spade connector onto the plug and use it as a flexable extention, a little pressure on the plug and a few turns and it spins right in. A quick snub with the 1/4 in drive and all done.

[a5150nut]

Damn Dave,

Thats the same trick I use on Mama's spark plugs in her car.:eek::D