Broken Glow-plug in cylinder head!?! please help!

[supracnine]

So i just got new glow plugs recently and decided to put them in my 6.5t earlier today. I got seven of the eight in the engine just fine except for the last one. ("last one" being the one closest to the firewall on the turbo side) the problem was getting the one last old plug out and it seemed to go fine at first, but then it became intermittently tight then finger loose and back and forth while i was unbolting it . After a while of loosening the glow plug like that with my ratchet i noticed it was virtually all the way out, I mean i could see virtually all the threads on the plug yet it would not come out nor was it even finger loose! no matter how much we turned the damn thing it wouldn't come out,
even with a little pulling with pliers it stayed in there solid. so my buddy tried pulling and turning at the same time only, then with some more effort and the plug element snap d off inside the block flush with the body of the glow plug so now i have heating element stuck inside my cylinder head and i cant even see the plug hole very well cause of the angle and this siriously sucks because i can not afford a rebuild kit to take it apart and retrieve the now foreign object from my poor combustion chamber (un-freakin-employed:(). Wtf! right? i don't understand how my glow plug broke in the first place, has anyone heard of this happening before or how that can even possibly happen i mean i know 21:1 compression is a lot but i just don't see how that's even possible any help? :confused::mad:

[DmaxMaverick]

First off, take in some air and relax. This is common, and more common on earlier models with AC9G plugs (OEM). If you are careful, it won't require a teardown. Some time and knuckle skin, perhaps, but no big expense.

Have a look at THIS THREAD (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=35435). Yours will be the same, except you will have to accommodate the turbo. You won't have to remove more than what's necessary to get the injector out.

[supracnine]

Thank-you very much that was very helpful. right now im trying to get ahold of a wrench big enough to remove my injector somewhere over 1". My turbo is off and so is the heater line thats in the way so i have just about enough access to the injector, unless i cant get a wrench for it and in that case i need to take my exaust manifold off so i can fit an adjustible wrench on it. i am dealing with cylinder #8 then right? (turbo side, closest to firewall) oh and btw while im on the net DAMN you Murphy!! for swelling the worst possible GP on the engine.

also i am replacing with AC Delco 60G Glow Plugs will these be pretty much the same as the problem prone 9G stock plugs

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't be surprised if that GP is different than the others. The GP may be the original, and the others newer. #8 is often left untouched and in-op. Many shops charge for the replacement that never happened. Sad, but true. With 7 good plugs, an owner may never notice.

You'd be better getting an injector socket. Autozone, and many other stores, should have one, and "loan" it to you. Makes life easier. Don't use an adjustable wrench (if it's even possible). Also, don't tweak the injector line any more than absolutely necessary. It needs to be aligned properly or it'll be a real bear to reinstall. Careful to not damage the copper seal under the injector, and you can reuse it. Reinstall the injector (and all the plugs and any injector line nuts you remove) with some anti-seize. Makes life easier later on.

[Robyn]

Spend the $$$$ and get the injector socket that fits these injectors. Its well worth the $$$$$ to do it.

Once armed with that tool your set and you wont screw up expensive injectors.

I have one as well as the socket for the Oil pressure switch.

Just makes life far easier.

Take the time, rip the air filter box off the truck and yank that exhaust manifold off and get some room to work in.

Jack the rig up get the RH front tire off, block the truck.
Now take the rubber flap off the inner fender and you have all the room you need to access the manifold bolts.

With the airbox removed there is plenty of work room to get at the downpipe clamp too.

Once that stuff is on the bench you can crawl right in there and go at it.

Been there done that.

Keep us posted


Missy

[pocrain]

You can do this without a major overhaul. I just had the same thing. Do yourself a favor and drain your coolant enough to take your heater hoses and the coolant tank out, air box and anything else in the area that can interfere, I usually can work more efficiently with the extra room, Once you get the injector out it leaves a good hole to peek into with a mirror. I was able to coax mine out with tweezers. All I had to pull the injector with was a 3/4" drive 6 point 1 and 3/16" socket. Seemed to work fine. Don't forget to breathe and relax! To bad a magnet won't work but it doesn't. Try to make it fun and laugh alittle, it always helps.

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
If you really want some room to work,instead of pulling the little rubber flap off,take a few more minits and pull the inner fender,it dosn't have more than a dozen bolts and gives you accses to the whole side of the motor.I'v decided to take off both sides of my new to me truck so i can give the motor a good cleaning,right now if you look at the motor you get dirty