turbo

[Lundstedt]

quick question, has anyone have a turbo map or maybe some info on the 8.2 turbo? looking for some info on what it flows compared to stock turbo (have one laying around and would think lbs for lbs might have more lag but better map up top? just thinking out loud.... i need more air in my engine

[suburbanK-2500HD]

Hi

And welcome

What kind of car\truck do you have.

put it in your signature, its easier to reply then.

:)

[Robyn]

If you are refering to the 8.2 GM diesel???

The turbo from the 8.2 would likely work ok on the 6.5 as there is not that much difference in the opperating RPM ranges.

Bolt it on and give it a go and see how it works.

Keep an eye on the EGT and the boost.

Is the turbo from the 8.2 a wastegated unit or not????

Keep the boost at no more than 12 PSI 15 Max without a charge cooler.

The big failing with the stock 6.5 turbo is the ballance between boost and drive side pressure.

In the upper levels of boost the back pressure on the drive side tends to creep up to more than optimal levels.

There are several good turbos on the market that will really work well on the 6.5 but they are not cheap.

Post a pix of the turbo from the 8.2

Best

Robyn

[Lundstedt]

sorry will update that tonight when i am off work, is a 94 6.5, 18:1 and forged crank on order, cryogenically treated block, building now just trying to take the right steps to tow, thought i had an air to air cooler that would work but dont so will order one and i a water meth kit to install too. we do alot of performance and one thing i am going for is to shut up the guys that say i cant get good and dependable power out of anything.... just keep biting my tounge so i dont have to eat crow. lol

[Lundstedt]

thanks robyn yes 8.2L td detroit, never checked for waste gate... good call put in in the shed a couple years ago and never thought much about it until thinking i need more efficient boost, i will snap some pics tomorrow

[Robyn]

I would do some preliminary measurements on the turbine and compressor to see if the unit from the 8.2 is much different in size.

Drive side back pressure is the big killer on the GMX series.


RC

[john8662]

I don't think the 8.2 turbo is even in the ballpark.

For one, it's a non-gated turbo that's not going to make very much boost on an 8.2, let alone a 6.5.

Second, it's a mounting/plumbing disaster, you need something that's already in the T3 family to mount on your manifold. The 8.2 turbo is mounted in the valley, which you really don't have the room for, and won't be able to safely exit the exhaust with.

I've had great runs with the Holset turbo's. Start with a WH1C or HX35g off a 5.9 cummins 2nd gen Dodge or industrial engine. You'll need to fabricate a downpipe and charge air cooler (research hanging ATA cooler). For the downpipe I'm using the factory-style aftermarket downpipe with an adapter I've fabricated out of exhaust pipe, working on more.

Oh, at least put a stud girdle in the bottom end of that block...

[Robyn]

Just looked up some specs on the 8.2 and looked over the mounting and such.

AS John just mentioned, A bad plan to even consider the 8.2 turbo

A stock GM 8 will give you plenty of air and as long as you have a good flowing exhaust the little beast will make plenty of power.

A possible better plan may be to look into one of the air/water charge cooler setups to help keep the temps down

My DaHooooley still has the GM 4 on it and the beast runs great with more than enough power.

Just keep an eye on EGT's


Missy

[Lundstedt]

thanks for the info i was planning on side mounting (we have a water jet mill and lathe so i wasn't worried about making brackets and the like. but i can probably find a turbo off a dodge easy enough or do i need to order one built to my specs? glad i dodge the head ache thats why i asked! thanks!
i am on a budget of sorts

also is there a girdle you recommend? i cryogenically treated my block and mains, think i need more? will i blow my crank out the bottom? i am horrible at finding useful info in a sea of BS cause i read it all and there are so many ill-informed people that have never tried anything talking from their backside. lol

so to cap- the 2nd gen dodge will bolt on and the down pipe will need modified? and the internals? cooling system and air charge cooler+ water meth i know i need and will take care of when i get to that bridge.

we have also been developing a liquid propane system to utilize the cooling properties of changing liquid to gas in the intake pipe instead of under the cab (wasted energy) so i may be playing with that

any HP numbers when things start to break? not hard jerk like drag racing just constant pulling


I don't think the 8.2 turbo is even in the ballpark.

For one, it's a non-gated turbo that's not going to make very much boost on an 8.2, let alone a 6.5.

Second, it's a mounting/plumbing disaster, you need something that's already in the T3 family to mount on your manifold. The 8.2 turbo is mounted in the valley, which you really don't have the room for, and won't be able to safely exit the exhaust with.

I've had great runs with the Holset turbo's. Start with a WH1C or HX35g off a 5.9 cummins 2nd gen Dodge or industrial engine. You'll need to fabricate a downpipe and charge air cooler (research hanging ATA cooler). For the downpipe I'm using the factory-style aftermarket downpipe with an adapter I've fabricated out of exhaust pipe, working on more.

Oh, at least put a stud girdle in the bottom end of that block...

[DennisG01]

also is there a girdle you recommend?

My mains are splayed. I'm guessing this route might be more expensive than a girdle? I couldn't tell you exact pricing, though, as it came in the package when the engine got rebuilt. Just throwing another idea out there.

[john8662]

Go to KennedyDiesel.com and look under engine parts and you'll find the DSG Stud Girdle kit, you can also find DSG's website and order direct as well.

No, cryo the bottom end will not be enough. These blocks are weak in the bottom end, hence the reasoning for cracking on the main webs. The Stud girdle is an angle iron that's precision drilled/CNC to the holes in the outside bolt holes on the cap. The rails attach to the top of the main caps on the outside bolts on the 4-bolt main, this girdle ties the three center caps together. It also uses studs verses the OEM bolts, the idea is the studs are more scure and pull on the threads (load) differently. It does help, well, we think, can't hurt.

As mentioned, splaying the mains is another option. The block going in my 1995 suburban has been splayed, this is a new block, different from one that failed me over a year ago. If you need help getting one splayed, you can send your block my way and I can help out with that, just an option...

Once you land a turbo, you'll see what i mean about the downpipe. Your only two options are to make a complete new one, or make an adapter (not an easy project).

[Lundstedt]

thanks guys for all the info will look up the girdle tonight, at what power to the rods fail anyone know? not an issue as i cant find anyone mention it i asked my machine shop they said they figured they would be fine to 400 which is past where i figure it would be based on my reading about simular builds.

the block is machined but still needs final hone so now would be time to look into splayed... which is the best? IYO.

thanks again fo rthe input

[Lundstedt]

thanks guys decided after looking at cost and time to complete to go ahead and just order the girdle

[john8662]

I will say this, the girdle isn't bad at all, and is most effective in blocks with the 12mm bolt holes (599's 929's 141's and early 506's). The later blocks only have tiny 10mm outside main bolts, I don't see the girdle as being as effective (although still work installing, just cause). I've beat on a 506 early block in the drag truck for over two years now that simply has the 12mm bolts and a girdle in it. The truth of whether it really helped keep it from cracking will be told this winter when it comes out for decking the block to accept MLS head gaskets, then splaying, then better crank, more wasted $ for sure. But, even it if started to crack, it held together and I think that's still important!

[Mikey von]

Here is a pic of what a girdle looks like:

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1010012-r.jpg

this one is custom and larger than the dsg one.