Harmonic Balancer Question

[Steelkilt]

I purchased a fulidampr harmonic balancer for my 1998 suburban and would like to install it. I am wondering what the process is for removing the harmonic balancer and putting on the new one. Should it come right off the way the crankshaft pulley did when I replaced it recently? or is some kind of puller required?

[DmaxMaverick]

You will need a balancer puller. DO NOT use a regular pulley puller. The balancer pullers usually look like a peace sign (or chicken foot), and requires long bolts to match the pulley threads (3 of them), and washers. Many auto parts store "loan" tools (usually buy then return for refund program), and should have this. If you buy one, they are also handy for pulling steering wheels and other unique pulleys.

Advice:

Remove the radiator, if you can. Otherwise, you risk damaging it, which would require removal, anyway. If you can't remove it (or just don't want to), at least place a sheet of something on it (like heavy cardboard or a street sign-type sheet). Remove the fan, or it will get in your way. You don't have to, but it saves frustration (and promotes the limitation of colorful expletives).

Loosen the balancer/crank bolt and remove it. Reinstall it with some oil (don't have to tighten it), and back it out about 4 turns (about 1/4"). This will prevent damage to the crank snout while breaking it loose. Once the balancer is backed off this distance, remove the bolt and proceed with balancer removal, with or without the puller (many times, the balancer will pull off by hand once broken loose).

Take your time. Install the puller as true as you can get it. Snug (not tight) the bolts so it squares the puller with the balancer. If it's square, turns on the puller bolt should be easy(ier). Use some oil on the puller threads. It may take some impact to get it to move at first.

I have never installed a Fluid Damper, so I don't know if any special procedure is involved. If there is, instructions should be included. Either way, DO NOT use a steel hammer to install it (or any balancer). At most, you can use a soft hammer/mallet (rubber, plastic, brass, dead-blow types), but ONLY after the balancer is squarely started, and before the crank bolt can be used. Once the crank bolt can engage a few threads, use it to sock it down, then torque it. Be sure the balancer engages the front seal, and use oil to be sure it slides through the seal w/o grabbing.

[More Power]

I purchased a fulidampr harmonic balancer for my 1998 suburban and would like to install it. I am wondering what the process is for removing the harmonic balancer and putting on the new one. Should it come right off the way the crankshaft pulley did when I replaced it recently? or is some kind of puller required?

I've talked to a couple of people who installed the Fluidampr, and found the crank to damper interference fit very tight.

Just as you need a damper remover to remove a damper, you also need a damper installer. You can make one using a spare damper bolt and a piece of all-thread.

If you find the interference fit is too tight for your liking, boil the damper in a pan of water - the 200-212 degrees won't hurt it. The heat will expand the damper bore ever so slightly, and if the crank is cool, the interference fit will increase slightly - making it a little easier to get it on.

Jim

[Steelkilt]

Thanks for the feedback. very helpful. Maybe it will be obvious once I get into it, but I don't fully understand how the harmonic balancer attaches to the crank. And forgive me for asking what is probably pretty obvious.

The crank pulley is held on with four bolts that come out of the harmonic balancer. I assume they come through the harmonic balancer from the back side? Are they what the remover attaches to, after taking off the pulley? And then there is another bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crank that has to be removed to get the balancer off?

I could probably benefit from a good diagram, but I have not been able to find one.

[DmaxMaverick]

4 bolts? OK. I've pulled so many balancers over the last decade, most not GM Diesels, I may have forgotten how many bolts. Could be 4. Either way, once the pulley is off, you will use the same bolt holes used by the pulley, for the puller. The puller I have has only 3 or 2 holes to use for the balancer. Either 3, equally spaced around, or 2 straight across, can be used. Either way, it should be fairly straight forward once you get all the parts and tools in hand. It isn't complicated, but we can make it that way, if you prefer:D

The balancer's inner hub slips over the end of the crank. It has a woodruff key to index it correctly (watch for it). The inner hub's outer surface at the rear of the balancer contacts the front engine seal (in the timing cover). The balancer is bolted in place with a single, very large, bolt/washer in the center of the crankshaft.

[suburbanK-2500HD]

i removed mine a while ago, its 4 bolts.
the balancer came off quite easy, i lubricated the crank/balancer with some penetrating oil first. and gently pryed it off.
But, the best would be a puller.

[Robyn]

Take a look in the 6.2/6.5 tech forum under "Build tips"
I have a lot of pics posted there and there is a good one of my engine with the ballancer very visable.

The 4 holes where the pulley bolts on are obvious as is the crank snout bolt.

Robyn

[SmithvilleD]

I've talked to a couple of people who installed the Fluidampr, and found the crank to damper interference fit very tight.

Just as you need a damper remover to remove a damper, you also need a damper installer. You can make one using a spare damper bolt and a piece of all-thread.

If you find the interference fit is too tight for your liking, boil the damper in a pan of water - the 200-212 degrees won't hurt it. The heat will expand the damper bore ever so slightly, and if the crank is cool, the interference fit will increase slightly - making it a little easier to get it on.

Jim

Here's a pic of a DIY damper installation tool I made to install my Fluidampr. My experience was also that it's a pretty tight interference fit. Their instructions recommend coating the crank OD & Fluidampr ID with moly grease or anti-seize to prevent galling during installation.

[Robyn]

Here is a pix of the ballancer with some notes on it.

Robyn

[Steelkilt]

What is the torque setting for the bolt holding the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft end.

Finally got a chance to work on this today. borrowed a removal/installer toolkit from advance auto. removed the shroud, fan and pulleys, and needed a breaker bar to get the bolt loose, but then the old harmonic balancer came off smooth as butter. and the new fluidampr went on smooth as butter as well. it all went pleasantly fast and easy. wondering what the torque setting should be, and haven't been able to find it anywhere.

i suppose i can just do it farmer tight but would prefer knowing it's been set right.

thanks again for the advice here, it was certainly helpful!

btw, the old one was all dried out and was corroded. i doubt it was still doing it's job properly. can't wait to see how the new fluidampr performs.

[rogers]

200 ft-lbs or 270 nm. Let us know what changes you notice with the new fluidampr!

[Robyn]

I always apply some blue loctite to the threads and then spin the bolt down with the 1/2" impact gun, then burp it about 3 times or about a 2 second rattle and call it good.

Never had any issues.

Robyn

[Steelkilt]

I always apply some blue loctite to the threads and then spin the bolt down with the 1/2" impact gun, then burp it about 3 times or about a 2 second rattle and call it good.

this would have been easier than using the torque wrench.

What a difference!! runs much smoother now, especially on hard acceleration.

i can't say it's only the fluidampr, because the old harmonic balancer was worn out. no question that if yours hasn't been replaced since new, you should replace it.