View Full Version : 350 to 6.2 Conversion
balthouse1
08-21-2009, 09:54
I took on the job of converting my son's 1990 Blazer from gas to diesel. I am hoping that the fuel milage savings will offset the cost of the conversion. Since I did all of the work myself, I will try to answer any questions if anyone is going to take on a project of this nature.
One thing I can't find is how to set up the cruise control from the 350 on the 6.2. If anyone has done this in the past, their input would be greatly appreciated.
More Power
08-25-2009, 08:25
Welcome to the board!
I don't know how much more efficient the 1990 gas 350 was than the 1980 gas 350, but you should see about twice the fuel economy with the diesel if you're maintaining the overdrive auto trans and the vehicle setup is more or less stock.
If the the gas cruise control cannot be converted, a few others here have installed an aftermarket electronic cruise control. You find a selection of these in the JC Whitney catalog.
Good luck with your project, and keep us posted.
Jim
convert2diesel
08-25-2009, 11:35
Have done a few and the CC was always a challenge due to the use of a single cable to the diesel. If you have a local bone yard, try to find a 94-96 Cadillac Fleetwood (rear drive). They all had traction control.
What you need off the Caddy is:
1. Traction control servo (black canister looking thing with three or four cables going into it..pedal, cruise control, throttle and maybe the tranny TV cable if it is a 93 with the 700R4). If your truck has the older non-electronic tranny (700R4/4L60) and you can only get this unit off a 94 or newer, the drum still has the space for the fourth cable. You will have to buy the TV cable from the dealer for a 93 Fleetwood.
2. Pedal cable (pedal to canister)
3. Cruise module and cable (both the canister and CC are mounted on drivers fender)
4. Throttle cable
5. TV cable if needed (see above)
The traction control servo is essentially a drum with three of four cables wrapped around it with a built in return spring. Using this allows you to hook up all the cables and leaves just one to run to the IP. Don't worry about the electrical connections. Their there only to kick the throttle back when the TC is activated. Doesn't work worth a damn even when it is working.
The fully electronic cruise control is a better unit and does not require vacuum. Mine have been trouble free so far and they use the same plug as the vac versions. Should be plug and play. If not they both use the same inputs so do some schematic match up between the two. I have the Caddy wiring if you need it.
Bill
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