bought me a freaking awesome custom built 6.2l

[Mikey von]

I am stoked, I bought a custom built 6.2L off of MaxPF. This thing is awesome and will have a nice home in my '89 project burb. I do not have it yet as he is finishing the heads. Also, it is in AZ and I am in North Eastern CA. He is going to put it on a pallet and i will have it shipped most likely. I was going to rebuild mine, but this came up and I could not pass.

Here is the part of the ad he posted in the classified here;

[Assembled short block]
* 1991 660 block, crack free, bored & honed .030 over
* Custom full length .500" thick main cap girdle
* 12mm ARP studs in ALL positions on the main caps
* New Melling HV 6.5 oil pump
* Brand new GM 6.5 crank machined to fit 2 piece 6.2 block (yes, really)
* rods resized, rebushed, shot-peened, and fitted with new GM rod bolts
* New .030" Mahle pistons w/rings
* Main bearings are Clevite, rods and cam bearings are Sealed Power
* Custom aluminum oil pan (to clear the girdle) with fittings for turbo
oil return and bypass filter return
* Good used stock camshaft
* Pete Jackson Gear Drive (PJ makes them for all the other vendors)
* New Sealed Power lifters
* New pushrods
* ARP head studs

Here are a few pics from his build up thread on CK5. I will be adding details and more pics with time. I will add my own pics once it arrives. MaxPF is wicked awesome at this stuff.



Bottom end;

Crack free 660 block
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/diesel/4-8-07/P1010023-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/9-2-07/P1010096-r.JPG

NOS 6.5 crank - machined to fit 6.2 two piece seal block
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/6-30-07/P1010021-r.JPG

new mahle pistons
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/diesel/mahle_pistons/mahlepistons.jpg


gear drive
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/11-11-07/P1010014-r.JPG


Custom main cap girdle with custom arp main cap studs
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/9-3-07/P1010004-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/7-21-07/P1010025-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/9-3-07/P1010012-r.JPG

[Mikey von]

arp head studs
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/6-16-07/P1010005-r.JPG

custom Al oil pan
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/6-29-08/00014-r.jpg

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/7-18-08/00424-r.jpg

[Mikey von]

The bottom end definitely built right. The main cap girdle, crank and oil pan are very nice work done my MaxPF. All the fasteners. pushrods, and lifters are new as is the 6.5l high volume oil pump.

The really custom work happens with the heads. I do not completely understand all that has been done. I do know MaxPF did what he did to have these things flow better.

Here is my newbie breakdown of what has been done (text copied from ad with pics from CK5 build thread);

* New aftermarket castings
* New hardened intake seats and high nickel exhaust seats
* New wear resistant iron valve guides
* New SI valves (exhaust valves are stellite faced)
* Valves unshrouded - resulting volume increase yields 18:1
compression
* positive-type teflon valve guide seals
* big block valve rotators on all valves (spring seats machined
to accommodate rotators)
* Comp cams 1.462" diameter springs, 109# seat pressure
* Comp cams retainers and locks
* Comp cams 1.7" Magnum full roller rockers on custom tool steel shaft
setup. Head machined to retain custom shaft pedestals and will NOT
accept stock shafts
* New GM diamond precups

bare heads;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/12-29-07/P1010060-r.JPG

valves, springs, retainers, and keepers;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/5-19-08/DSCF0388-r.JPG

roller rocker mock up
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/5-19-08/DSCF0395-r.JPG

machining guide and spring seats;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/5-18-08/DSCF0364-r.JPG

diamond precups;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/9-18-08/DSCF0970-r.JPG

[Mikey von]

decking head;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-21-08/DSCF1748-r.JPG

machining valve seat pockets;
http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-21-08/DSCF1757-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-21-08/DSCF1762-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-21-08/DSCF1764-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-26-08/DSCF1788-r.JPG

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/10-26-08/DSCF1795-r.JPG

[Mikey von]

He has posted up more pics in his huge build thread at CK5. If you want to see anything and are not a member there, I will try to post them up here. He said he is also going get me some pics of the assembled heads.

I plan on having my IP and injectors rebuilt locally. I have a use banks turbo set-up on the way. I also have a serp setup and the '99 cooling upgrades (no d-max fan yet) being sent to me. I plan on purchasing an oil bypass filter, poly motor mounts from DIY4X, and possibly a fliudampr.

[Robyn]

Nice looking piece for sure

Thanks for sharing

Robyn

[Mikey von]

I have two used 6.2l balancers that look to be in good shape, but I am guessing it would be wise to purchase a new one for my new engine. I am correct in this thinking?

Is the fluidampr worth the $400 (or $250 over a OEM balancer)?

[93GMCSierra]

I do not have one, but from what people have said, with that much into the build on that engine yes it is.

[engineeradam]

The 6.2 had a weak crank, and a blown balancer would normally cause breakage, you've switched to a 6.5 crank, but I personally wouldn't risk it and would get a new balancer

[93GMCSierra]

My 93 GMC broke the crank, which is why I would say the fluidampr would be better.

[Mikey von]

A few pics of the finished and installed heads. It will be on a pallet and shipped to me in a few days.

http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/8-25-09/DSCF2989.JPG


http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/8-25-09/DSCF2992.JPG


http://defiant.blogdns.com:5002/Blazer/pics/8-25-09/DSCF2986.JPG

[Mikey von]

a few more pics that MaxPF sent me-

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2951.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2955.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2957.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2958.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2981.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/DSCF2990.jpg

[350Tacozilla]

you have got to strap that thing on engine dyno before stuffing it in your truck, would be very interesting to see what it makes

[Mikey von]

MaxPF responded. Here is what he said about his/my engine.


Hey everyone,

Just wanted to say thanks for the comments. This engine has been my slow project for the last couple years. It was near completion when I changed directions on my Blazer. Originally this engine was destined to replace the tired old TBI350 that it originally had. Then I got a used 6.2 from my roommate and swapped that in, so I could benefit from better fuel mileage while I fussed over this engine. Finally, earlier this year I decided there weren't enough K5's running around with 12V Cummins under the hood, so I bought one. That left me with a basically orphan 6.2 project.

I finally posted it for sale, with a "make offer". Mike made an offer, I accepted, and the rest is (almost) history. I'm not going to disclose how much I sold it for; lets just say Mike got it for literally pennies on the dollar, compared to what the parts and machine work alone cost.

I will try to answer some questions about certain aspects of the heads and valvetrain. First, the valves are stock 6.2 J code size. They look larger because the 45 degree reliefs around the valves have been opened up. This does two things: it unshrouds the valves at low lift, and it increases chamber volume. As a result of the latter this engine has an 18:1 compression ratio with stock height pistons. The common method of dropping the piston .030" in the hole to get 18:1 leaves you with less "squish" and slower moving air in the cylinder. My method increases low lift valve flow and maintains the high cylinder turbulence of a stock compression engine (at least, that's the theory).

The valve springs are comp cams. They give 109# seat pressure (vs 80# for stock springs) to reduce the chance of valve float in case of an accidental overspeed (i.e. missed shift). The retainers and keepers are also Comp, and are 10 degree performance type. In order to maximize valve life both intake and exhaust are fitted with rotators. Since the stock 6.2 rotators fit smaller springs I had to use big block rotators. Their diameter and height required machining of the spring pockets and stems.

I was unhappy with the induction hardened seats and rather loose guides in the heads, so I replaced both with superior aftermarket pieces. The guides are sintered iron with spiral oil retaining grooves inside, and are topped with teflon positive seals. The intake seats are hardened steel, while the exhausts are a high temp nickel alloy designed for use with the stellite faced exhaust valves. The valves themselves are made by SI, and are their HD replacements for J code 6.2's. It should be noted that the use of seat inserts in the exhaust side will positively prevent the formation of a crack between the exhaust and intake valves. This crack is caused by the high operating temp of the integral induction hardened seat (which is brittle and crack prone) while being pounded incessantly by the valve. IH had the exact same problem with their prototype 6.9's, and they solved it by using seat inserts.

The rocker arms are Comp Cams magnum roller rockers. They are 1,7:1 ratio big block units. I removed the trunnions in them so I could mount them on shafts. The shafts themselves are made from ground O1 tool steel hardened to 60-62Rc. This hardness is needed so the needle bearings don't brinell the shaft and eventually destroy it. The shaft pedestals are made from 1018 that has been carburized (case hardened) to 60-62Rc for wear resistance (the rockers can rub on the sides of them). They have caps aligned to the bodies with 1/8" dowel pins, and each body/cap pair is numbered and fitted as a pair, similar to rods and their caps. They are mounted to the head using special studs that have 1/2-13 threads on one end and 3/8-24 threads on the other. The studs are machined from 17-4 stainless steel and precipitation hardened to give a strength of 200ksi (for comparison, standard ARP fasteners are 160-170ksi). They are retained with thin walled ARP 12 point nuts. I even had to machine down a socket to fit in the tight well - a standard socket has walls that are too thick. Besides holding the shafts, the mounts also offset them toward the intake side of the heads. This is necessary because the distance between the fulcrum and roller tip is greater with these 1.7 rockers vs. the stock 1.5 rockers. The pushrods are new Sealed Power stock length 6.2 pushrods. Pushrod geometry is identical to a stock engine since the roller tip to rocker ball distance on the big block is nearly identical to the diesel.

Since these rockers are higher ratio the valves gain more lift. Valve lift on a stock 6.2 is .420". With the 1.7 rockers it increases to .476. Piston to valve clearance was checked and, while VERY close, it is better than the specs for the International 6.9. The 6.9 gives an exhaust-to-piston vlearance of only .009"! This is WAY too close IMO, and thankfully the advance built into the 6.2 cams gives around .030". The intake is much tighter, but it can be since the piston is retreating from the valve. Exhaust clearance is much more critical in any engine because the piston is approaching a retreating valve, and any valve float risks a collision. This doesn't happen with the intake valve. BTW, as a point of comparison gassers, especially race motors, try to have at least .100" clearance between the exhaust valve and piston at their closest approach. This is because valve float and lifter pump-up is much more likely with a high revving gas engine.

So, anyway, that is the bulk of the technical detail. The bottom end is pretty basic except for the girdle and the ARP studs. The aluminum oil pan was needed to clear the girdle, nothing more. As Mike mentioned, the crank is a new old stock 6.5 one piece seal crank that I machined to fit the 2 piece block. Main bearings are Clevite and rod bearings are Sealed Power. Cam bearings are also Sealed Power. Pistons are .75mm over Mahle, and the cylinders are plateau honed as is common for modern engines. The gear drive is a Pete Jackson unit that I bought from Jegs. It is the EXACT same one you get from the 6.2 retailers except for a much lower price Lifters are also brand new Sealed Power units. The only thing I reused in this engine was the camshaft and IP gears, because these parts practically never wear out.

Finally, in case anyone is wondering, I have no intentions of making any more of these rocker setups. I just don't have the time or money to donate to such a side venture, and I doubt it would be profitable anyway. Honestly, the main reason I made these was because I could... the fact that the stock setups are a bit cheesy was also a minor reason

[abec]

that is one nice build

[Robyn]

A very top shelf BUILD :)

I love the custom rocker shafts, and the fancy machine work


Missy

[rogers]

I am sooo jealous!!!!!!!!!

[DieselCrawler]

Anything new on this, is it in and running yet??? Has it been dyno'd?

[Mikey von]

Anything new on this, is it in and running yet??? Has it been dyno'd?

still working on this. it is pretty much ready for paint. I have had some higher priorities and some health issues. I do really need to get this thing going.

[MaxPF]

still working on this. it is pretty much ready for paint. I have had some higher priorities and some health issues. I do really need to get this thing going.

Make sure you pre-oil the motor while turning it over by hand to pump up the lifters. If thats not feasible you can crank the motor until oil pressure comes up, and then for another minute or two until the lifters are fully pumped up. Either way, do it with the valve covers off so you can see what's going on. Make sure each valve is getting full lift before you fire the motor.

Greg

[Mikey von]

I was going to contact you when I was ready to get to that point. Thanks for the tips.

Pre-oiling - is this where you spin the oil pump using a drill? I definitely did not know to do it with the valve covers off.

Perhaps this would be a good spot for you or someone else help explain the whole process to me. Do this stuff on the stand or in the truck? Seems like it would be more difficult on the stand due to oil cooler lines - I guess i could plug them, but they and the cooler would need to be primed still.

[MaxPF]

I was going to contact you when I was ready to get to that point. Thanks for the tips.

Pre-oiling - is this where you spin the oil pump using a drill? I definitely did not know to do it with the valve covers off.

Perhaps this would be a good spot for you or someone else help explain the whole process to me. Do this stuff on the stand or in the truck? Seems like it would be more difficult on the stand due to oil cooler lines - I guess i could plug them, but they and the cooler would need to be primed still.

AFAIK nobody makes a drill-powered oiler for the 6.2 like they do for the SBC/BBC. The drive rod in the 6.2 is hex shaped, but you cannot simply drive it with a socket and extension because the oil pump drive or vacuum pump oil drive combo also seals the oil galleries in that area (also like a SBC/BBC). Without that drive unit in place sealing the galleries you would have a massive internal oil leak and no oil pressure.

There are two ways to go about it. First, you can connect an external medium pressure pump (i.e. 20psi minimum, 100 psi max) to the oil cooler return port and use it to do the pre-oiling on the stand. Make sure an oil gauge is connected and that the oil outlet port to the cooler is plugged. You will need a gallon or so of oil in a bucket, and place the bucket under the oil pan with the pan's drain plug removed. That way you will keep recirculating the oil. Also, IIRC this procedure will bypass the oil filter, so make sure no dirt or anything falls in the oil bucket! Anyway, once you have oil pressure crank the engine over by hand a dozen or so times. With the valve covers off you should see the valve lift increase dramatically as the lifters fill with oil. Eventually oil should start feeding up through the pushrods and into the rockers.

The second way, which is easier if you don't happen to have the equipment lying around for method #1, is to simply hook up the starter on the engine stand. Don't install the IP, or injectors, and use a piece of hose to bypass the oil cooler ports. Fill the engine with oil and crank away. I recommend not cranking for more than 15 seconds at a time and letting the starter cool for 30 seconds. Again, an oil pressure gauge is helpful to see if the oil pressure is coming up. It won't reach normal operating pressures, but you should still get 10-20psi. Again, watch the valves and note their lift increasing as the lifters fill with oil.

Either way, if something doesn't seem right, STOP! and investigate.

Once you have the lifters pumped up you can bolt the IP and injectors on and stuff it in the truck.

[Mikey von]

I have the valve covers off and they are going back on in the morning. If anyone wants any specific pics of the valve train, let me know.

[Mikey von]

http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/?action=view&current=valvetrain1.flv

[Mikey von]

a few pics from last week;

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2320.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2319.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2317.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2316.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2326.jpg

I have since installed injectors, injector lines, oil pump drive (in place of the vac pump in the pictures), valve covers, High Idle/Cold Advance setup, intake, water crossover, and gp controller. Moving on to the turbo and cross over.

[Mikey von]

I have been trying to spend as much free time working on the truck, problem being I only get a few hours of time a week. I have gotten the new transmission mounts on, new engine mounts on the frame, old exhaust cut out, and oil supply line completed.

I have run into a few hiccups;

- exhaust crossover does not seem to fit. will have it either custom made or will order from banks (same with downpipe).

- t-stat crossover is the wrong one and interfere serp setup accessories. I am guessing the 6.5l single t-stat is the correct one?

- broke a bolt on valve cover. Not sure how this happened. Was replacing a stud with a bolt and broke while tightening to 35lbs. Have not spent much time on this and will give it a go this weekend.

Stuff I need to figure out;

- what nuts to use to hold turbo onto manifold???

- where to get the silicone?? hose that connects the turbo intake hose to the tophat?

- how the passenger side AC and vac pump (and brackets) bolt up?

I am sure there is a lot more



some more pics -

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2334.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2335.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2336.jpg

Where can I get these silicone hose (blue in pics)?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2337.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2338.jpg

Wrong t-stat crossover?? The outlet hits the Alt/idler bracket and accessories. I am guessing the 6.5l sing t-stat housing is the correct one?
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2333.jpg

[93GMCSierra]

very nice, couple of suggestions, after all the work you have put into this you might consider the later 6.5 dual t-stat, I hear some fab work will need to be done to work with the throttle cable of the mechanical IP but it should with the help of a 97+ HO water pump keep this engine a bit cooler. Also you might consider running a inter cooler for the turbo charge air. Those couplers can usually be gotten at a local auto zone or other quik parts store.

[john8662]

Silicone Intakes is your friend on the boots. www.siliconeintakes.com (http://www.siliconeintakes.com)

You've got two different sizes, smaller on the turbocharger itself, and I think 2.5" at the upper plenum.

[Mikey von]

very nice, couple of suggestions, after all the work you have put into this you might consider the later 6.5 dual t-stat, I hear some fab work will need to be done to work with the throttle cable of the mechanical IP but it should with the help of a 97+ HO water pump keep this engine a bit cooler. Also you might consider running a inter cooler for the turbo charge air. Those couplers can usually be gotten at a local auto zone or other quik parts store.

I had the dual and after talking with quite a few folks decided I would stick to the single.

I will give my local napa a look. I headed into the big town (an hour drive) last week and went to the speed shop there. There were overly unintelligent and not helpful. They claimed they did not have those couplers.



Silicone Intakes is your friend on the boots. www.siliconeintakes.com (http://www.siliconeintakes.com)

You've got two different sizes, smaller on the turbocharger itself, and I think 2.5" at the upper plenum.

Good website. On the coupler is the sizing ID or OD. I will measure what I have when I get home. Thanks!

[Mikey von]

So I am having some problems getting my engine in. I am pretty sure it is the oil pan hitting the cross member. I have the engine and transmission bolted together. The tranny mount bolts are out and the whole thing actually needs to come forward about 1/2" - 1". It only hits on the drivers side.

What can be done to fix this? Can the cross member be persuaded to move or notched or something?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2371.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2370.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2373.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/IMG_2377.jpg

[turbonator]

hows that oil pan dilemma goin? i see that no body has posted up here so we thought you could use some words of encouragement..:):) its not so bad to notch out a litlle piece of that cross member, theres already one right in front of it and the tranny cross-member is not to far behind so i dont think there will be any issue to notch it for the clearance you will need.... just remember to add a little extra clearance for when the motor torques on the engine mounts.

if we were closer, we would come over and give you a hand but... there is a whack of miles between us....

KBC

p.s. We finally fired our ''Pugg'' motor today...... so far so good.

[abec]

hmm thats a bad one to run into but not to much of a problem if you have a welder and a grinder just get a piece of 3 inch sch 80 pipe and section it into 1/3's and cut and notch the cross member to fit the pipe into it where you need the clearence cheers and good luck with the build :cool:

[Mikey von]

Notched the cross member last Sunday and have not found the time to get out there since. I am on my way out there now and hope to get some good work done.

[BigDiesel]

Any update??

[Mikey von]

Financial picture is looking way brighter (my wife quit her job while pregnant, putting us at a $600 monthly deficit) and should be caught up in a few months. There is some work I need to do on it that does not cost money, but it is on the back burner right now since I have no money.

[Mikey von]

Just a quick update. Finances are looking better and the project will be worked on again. I got down-pipe and crossover from banks and they fit perfect. I have a racor fuel filter/water separator/fuel heater and A/C bypass pulley on the way. My time is still super tight with my boys, work, and school but I want my burb to get going!

[Mikey von]

Made good progress today.

Got the crossover boxed. My buddy had some problems with his welder. After pluggin it in (220) with his big extension cord, it had some issues. He went and got his service truck with huge genset. Still had issues and then we found out it it was the cord. Pulled the truck closer and plugged directly in, worked fine then. After a six pack or so we got er done.

Installed the serp belt accessories. The vacuum pump did not fit with the a/c delete due to the banks turbo manifold. I will hook the a/c compressor up in the future, so I did not want to put the vacuum pump where that goes. I went back to the cam driven vacuum pump and got that installed. (the accessories took me awhile to get right).

Cleaned up and installed the passenger side battery tray and airbox.

Figured out placement of fuel pump and racor filter. The racor is figgern huge and I will need to make a spacer to fit it on firewall where the box filter used to go.

Installed starter.

Still left to do;

Hook up turbo oil drain to pan.

Get down-pipe and crossover ceramic coated then installed.

Hook up all wiring.

Hook up power steering pump connections.

Fueling system.

Purchase and install exhaust from down-pipe back.

Hook up vacuum system.

Install radiator, front clip, cooling and heater hoses, and hood.

GO FAST!

I am sure there is more, but it felt REAL good to work on my truck again.

[Mikey von]

OK, worked on it some more tonight. Have a few questions and took some pics.

Here is what we are working with

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000469.jpg



This is the thermostat crossover. Anyone know what size fitting this thing needs?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000468.jpg

Do my acces look correct? What size serp belt do I need? Part Number?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000458.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000457.jpg


Power steering pump hook ups. Not sure which hose goes where? I have one coming from steering box, and one coming from hydro-boost/brake master cylinder area.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000456.jpg


This is where I plan on putting the Racor, as said this thing is huge. Any issues?

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000461.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000459.jpg


Can I switch around the inlet and outlet on the Racor? I assume arrows are flow direction.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000462.jpg

[Mikey von]

Oh yeah, pic of down-pipe which fits. It is tight, but does not touch anywhere. It is going down to Redding this week to be ceramic coated along with cross-over.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o283/Mikeyvon/P1000463.jpg

[DmaxMaverick]

You can't swap the in/outlets of the filter assy. The arrow indicates the direction of flow. Swapping will reduce the filtering capacity, and perhaps cause an element collapse (the element is designed to flow from outside-in). The element cartridge and/or filter assy may also have a check valve, which can also prevent reversal. A simple NO is the answer. Do what you have to do to get it plumbed right. If you have to mount it at any (slight) angle, the outlet should be UP to prevent an air trap. If you can bend/flare tubing, hard lines are very nice, and trouble free. Nice selection of a filter assy.

The PS pump should have 3 fittings. The threaded (high pressure) goes to the hydroboost unit inlet. The other two clamp nipples are for returns, one from the HB unit, one from the PS gearbox. The in/out fittings should be marked on the HB unit. In is from the pump, out is too the PS gearbox. Be absolutely sure to isolate these lines. They vibrate and pulse a lot, and can chafe very quickly/easily. If it doesn't have one, a fluid cooler is an excellent idea on the gearbox return line (greater flow, and more use facilitates better cooling than using the HB unit return). Synthetic ATF is an excellent fluid to use in this system (much better than off-the-shelf PS fluid). Better heat management, longer component life, and fewer leaks.

I don't know, off hand, what the adapter thread size it. I'll bet Robyn could rattle it off for you (or find out in a New York minute).

You'll know if your accessories are right, if the belt lines up (perfectly), and they all rotate in the correct direction. That tensioner pulley looks a bit past-due, though. Should have cleaned it up and painted it before grabbing the Kodak. I'm probably wrong, but it looks like an idler pulley is missing. You'll know once the belt is on. The PS pump needs about a 30% wrap, the water pump and alternator more than 50%. The tensioner should tighten the belt like a banjo string, and remain within the limit marks. You can measure/test the belt routing with a string or ribbon (metric). Measure the width and number of grooves and match a belt by description, if you don't have the correct application for it.

Definitely coat and wrap that downpipe. Too many things close to it that don't like heat. Like injector returns, and A/C lines.

[MaxPF]

It looks like his Racor has inlets and outlets on both sides. See how each fitting appears to be in a tubular section of the casting with a plug at its opposite end? He can simply swap the nipples and plugs on each section and effectively move his inlet and outlet to opposite sides. he is correct that the casting has arrows denoting in and out.

[DmaxMaverick]

It looks like his Racor has inlets and outlets on both sides. See how each fitting appears to be in a tubular section of the casting with a plug at its opposite end? He can simply swap the nipples and plugs on each section and effectively move his inlet and outlet to opposite sides. he is correct that the casting has arrows denoting in and out.

Yes, of course (I missed that on the first glance). Nice catch, Max. The inlet and outlet channels are ambidextrous. Switch the plugs and nipples to the convenient configuration. Either side or one. Just be sure to keep the flow direction correct.