jerry598
08-14-2009, 10:33
Just checked my main bearing clearances on my 95 6.5 TD w/plastiguage, all were good at .004-.006"
But, the bolts did not thread easily into a couple of the new L&S (Full-torque) inserts that were installed by the machine shop 150 miles from here. By easily, I mean I could not get them to snug up by hand in the last 1/4-1/2 inch of threading. Had to use a rachet on them to get them all the way in, probably using 10-20 lbs of torque in the process.
I'm a novice at this. Do I need to tap them? I was planning to tap the head bolt holes during reassembly since I don't know if the machine shop tapped them when they preped the block.
Also, is there anything that should be used on the crankshaft or rod bolt threads to get them properly torqued? Should they just be cleaned with a solvent like gasoline and dryed first?
I'm a little paranoid about this because I did a rod bearing and ring job on a 1954 324 cid Olds engine back in my younger days, and it threw a rod after about 500 miles.
But, the bolts did not thread easily into a couple of the new L&S (Full-torque) inserts that were installed by the machine shop 150 miles from here. By easily, I mean I could not get them to snug up by hand in the last 1/4-1/2 inch of threading. Had to use a rachet on them to get them all the way in, probably using 10-20 lbs of torque in the process.
I'm a novice at this. Do I need to tap them? I was planning to tap the head bolt holes during reassembly since I don't know if the machine shop tapped them when they preped the block.
Also, is there anything that should be used on the crankshaft or rod bolt threads to get them properly torqued? Should they just be cleaned with a solvent like gasoline and dryed first?
I'm a little paranoid about this because I did a rod bearing and ring job on a 1954 324 cid Olds engine back in my younger days, and it threw a rod after about 500 miles.