The tailpipe rusted off......

[Warren96]

The rest of the exhaust system dose not have a speck of rust on it but the tailpipe rusted off. Where can I get a pipe adapter to connect it back up? It's 2.75" OD. Nobody makes adapters that size. I cant be the only one who likes the stock exhaust can I? If i had a 6" piece of 2.75 pipe couldn't a muffler shop make it into an adapter?

[N9Phil]

I would look at a Stainless Steel Exhaust Band Clamp that you can get at a auto supply store or at a place like :http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog/?action=vshop&vid=22&pcid=8

Phil

[Warren96]

I should have made it clearer that the tailpipe had rusted only where the weld is that holds it into the muffler. A pipe adapter with an OD of 2.75 and an ID of 2.625 would adapt the current pipe to slip back into the rusted off section that is still in the muffler. In other words, It has rusted only where the pipe is welded into the muffler. The welding had burnt off the aluminized coating only at the weld and that cut the pipe cleanly off.

[DennisG01]

This is aluminum, would it work?

http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=I&Category_Code=SIT7

[Robyn]

I am suspect that if the tail pipe has rusted that badly that there is less solid material left than may be obvious.

I have never seen one of the stock exhaust systems rust out on a diesel, even with a bazillion miles on it.

Best solution would be to see if a short piece can be welded onto the muffler and then to the tail pipe.

Most muffler shops have a machine to bend and work exhaust tubing.

They can use the expander tool to enlarge one end of a short piece and make a "Coupler". Welding that little stud to the muffler will then allow the tail pipe to be inserted into the new coupler and then either welded (Recomended) or clamped in place.


Be sure to unhook the batteries before welding on the thing.
BOTH GROUNDS OR BOTH +++ LEADS
Ned to be sure that the ground clamp for the welder is close to the work and on the exhaust pipe itself.

Not doing this can cause major damage to the computer system.

Many shops seem to be unaware of this info.

The Class 8 trucks have stickers all over them stressing that the batteries need to be unhooked before welding and to ground close to work area.


An electrical "Pulse" or back feed can fry delicate electronic components in a heartbeat and cost big Bucks to fix.


Easy to make it safe, just unhook the batteries. :)

Saw a big Mercedes get fried this way once at a trailer hitch shop.

Guy just welded on a couple safety chain loops on a bolt on hitch and NO START.

Cost a couple grand$$$$$$$ to fix too. :(

He did not make any $$$ on that 15 minute job.


******** For whatever its worth **********

If the exhaust is that far gone, I would seriously thing about a fresh 3-1/2 or 4 inch system for the rig. The stock systems are like a soda straw.


Its amazing just how much better the little 6 and a half can breath with a good system.

Banks makes a nice system as do so many other companies.

Many offer a "Boxed KIT" that has everything you need to get the job done (Other than ambition and thats cost extra) :D

Robyn

[HH]

Could try a band clamp too.