Need some assitance on an '83 M1009 CUCV

[kawijames]

Well It's been a number of years since I've been back on the diesel boards,been playing with the gas motors again.

I'm looking at an 83 CUCV M1009 Blazer and I have some questions. I'm totally unfamiliar with the 24 volt systems and well to be honest I haven't played with the 6.2 in a long long time.

I am well versed with the D-max LLY,LB7, etc, but I'm at a loss with the 6.2.
What should I look for on this thing? I know I need to find out about the standard stuff, fuel filter, GP's and looking for fuel leaks, but what else?

I do still have my diesel comp tester with the fitting for the 6.2( hopefully the owner will let me do a comp test) but what specifically should I look for on problematic areas? IIRC this would be a C code motor correct( military) so there would be no EGR under the air cleaner.or was that the J code? also would the mil spec have the obd 1 connector? I do have my scanner available to take with me as well( not the stupid code reader but a true scanner) I'm going to be trying to get out late this afternoon to look at it so all responses are greatly appreciated.

[DmaxMaverick]

J = Military/HD/no EGR
C = Smog/LD/EGR/less OEM power

Nothing really special with these. The electrical system is unique, compared to civi models, but fairly straight forward. It will have both, 12V and 24V components, so you should have, at least, an electrical diagram of the specific vehicle. A complete repair manual would be best, but you can rely on civi info for non-electrical components/repairs. There are a couple good websites supporting CUCV's, and we have several qualified members who frequent this site.

The compression test is standard. The engine should be at or near operating temp. Batteries must be healthy, and fully charged. I recommend using battery chargers during the test, to ensure equal cranking throughout the test. You'll need either, two 12V chargers, or a single charger (commercial item) capable of charging two 12V batteries, simultaneously. The batteries are connected in parallel and series, at the same time (this allows for 12V and 24V circuits). Disconnect the fuel solenoid connector at the front of the IP (no need to pump in fuel during the test). Remove all glow plugs. Install the tester on one cylinder. Crank for 6 puffs. Results should be 300+ PSI (typically 340-420). DO NOT do the test "wet" (that's for gassers, and can result in catastrophic failure/damage/injury with a Diesel). All cylinder pressures should be within about 10% of each other. If all your pressures are over 300 PSI, and within a range of 10%, consider the engine "serviceable", compression-wise. Oil pressure should also rise normall during the cranking episodes. Cranking a non-loaded engine (little/no compression) can also surface other noises, like flywheel/ringgear, accessory, etc. condition.

Check (the short list):
-Oil level/appearance/smell (should smell like oil, not rancid or of other fluids)
-Coolant level/appearance/smell
-ATF level/appearance/smell
-Leaks, or signs of past leaks, including "sprays" on the fenders, firewall, and floor pan underside (a transfer case yoke seal leak will sling off the U-joint, for instance)
-Power steering fluid
-Oil cooler lines
-Fuel filter (should be new or recent), lines and pump (NO leaks around pump)
-Fan clutch condition and engagement
-Broken accesory bracket mounting points (could indicate other problems)
-Electrical wires/switches that don't belong (could indicate bypased/failed electrical components)
-Chassis components (same for any similar vehicle)
-Harmonic balancer - rubber should not be cracked or "oozing"
-Crank pulley - should be true
-Glow plugs and the glow system - Check glow plugs for continuity and appearance while they are out. The tips should not be deformed, in any way. Any plugs that don't come out indicate swelled tips. No real big deal, but plan on some significant time to remedy it (often requires injector removal, at the least).

General engine condition can most often be determined during a cold start. The GP's should cycle normally, and it should crank easily and start within a couple seconds, have minimal smoke, and smooth out and settle into a smooth idle within a few seconds. Oil pressure should come up quickly and hold steady. If it doesn't, it could indicate issues with: GP system, fuel leaks, HPCA problems, electrical system, starter issues, and/or mechanical failures.

The rest is basic stuff, and applies to any vehicle. It's an old truck, so keep that in mind while looking it over. I've probably left out a bunch of stuff, but it should be fairly straight forward.

[Robyn]

The Mil engine should be a J code without the EGR.
The 24 volt system is no biggy, just be sure of what voltage the part your working on is. IIRC they were a dual system with 24 volts on part and 12 on part.

The 83 will not have any OBD connector.

From the days when things were a lot simpler and far more reliable.

The 6.2/6.5 mechanically injected rigs are pretty simple.

If the thing fires up fairly easy when cold and runs smooth with minimal smoke after startup, your good to go.

Watch the oil pressure and the water temperature.

The oil pressure should run about 40 at speed and about 20 at idle. (Hot) may be slightly higher cold.


Keep an eye on the water temp (and level) once warm make sure temp stabilizes and that the Top radiator hose does not get real hard and the thing puke coolant.

Take it for a spin and see how it runs down the road. These should have either a 4 speed manual or a TH400 Automatic.

If it runs out and shifts good and idles smooth after your done, I would say its likely fairly healthy.

I would not bother to do a compression test unless the thing is real hard starting or displays rough running and or a lot of smoke.

Some black smoke when hard down on the throttle is normal.

Blueish smoke at idle after its warm is an indicator of bad injectors or other issues.


Look for major oil, coolant or other leaks.


Have fun.

Robyn

[CA_CUCV]

A good source of info for the cucv's is http://steelsoldiers.com/forum.php
They have a downloadable manual that is very thorough. Unless it was changed by a PO it has a th400, that's all they came with in the CUCVs. Also, as far as I know, the only gauges it will have is a speedo, a fuel gauge and a voltmeter, the rest are dummy lights.

[Robyn]

They were definately very basic.

Get in turn the key and go.

No frills anywhere in those rigs.

Missy