head gaskets

[dr.olds]

I am replacing head gaskets on my 02 Lb7, wow what a job that is, any body know where i can get a set of head studs, (not the factory head bolts, they are crap) cheaper than $600 dollars?:cool:

[More Power]

You can buy ARP head studs from a number of TDP advertisers (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm).

At a recent Dyno Day, I saw ARP studs sitting on a display table at www.usdieselparts.com (http://www.usdieselparts.com)

If you're going to studs, get the good stuff. I've heard reports from others about cheaper studs that weren't tempered correctly and a few broke sometime after the head R&R had been on the road.

That said, I feel too many people short change the factory TTY head bolts. The elastic properties of a TTY (Torque to Yield) head bolt tend to do a better job of maintaining clamping force over time than most people know. GM has revised the head bolt torque values and the head gaskets have undergone design changes to improve durability over time. Current new bolts and current new gaskets will likely solve most owner's problems with leaking head gaskets. Studs work best for the big power crowd. IMHO ;)

Jim

[Duramaster]

To add to that, I have never used head studs but on the DMAX application in a pickup, won't you have to pull the engine to install the heads (because of the length of the studs)? :confused:

[dr.olds]

I belive no longer than the studs would have to be there should be plenty of room to install the heads w/ studs there! thank you for that tip, i will be checking in to that!:cool:

[Duramaster]

I think that you will find that there won't be enough clearance near the firewall on the driver side. :confused:

[Duramaster]

I stand corrected.............. I have never seen a head stud for the DMAX. I saw a picture in the latest diesel magazine. I did not know that there was an allan wrench fitting in the top of the ARP Head Stud. I don't do "AFTERMARKET." I always thought they had to be installed first, then the gasket, then the head. My bad and hopefully this never happens again (I'm sure it will though :rolleyes: )

[DmaxMaverick]

I stand corrected.............. I have never seen a head stud for the DMAX. I saw a picture in the latest diesel magazine. I did not know that there was an allan wrench fitting in the top of the ARP Head Stud. I don't do "AFTERMARKET." I always thought they had to be installed first, then the gasket, then the head. My bad and hopefully this never happens again (I'm sure it will though :rolleyes: )

You were correct. The studs (normally) are installed, then gasket and head. While you could install them after the gasket/head, it usually leads to problems with sealing (especially when bolt threads open to coolant passages) and inconsistent torque. A lot of folks have done it, so there's a way.

I haven't removed/installed Duramax heads with studs, either. I do see clearance issues a real possibility, with all the vehicles I've been underhood. A person could raise the tranny to accommodate this, if it's enough. There have been enough of these used, so I'm surprised we haven't seen more responses. I like the idea of using studs, but wouldn't if clearance is an issue (repair costs and/or time involved can get crazy).

[madmatt]

Sorry but I can't touch a good set of studs inexpessive enough to sell for under $600. Yes they will go in and work fine with the engine in the chassis.

[dr.olds]

Thanks for the input fellas, just got off the phone with Guy Tripp @ SOCAL Diesel, Just ordered head studs and head gaskets, talk about a chunk of change! and yes, if there is a clearence prob. you can put the studs in after the gasket, head instal. will start this project next week will let you all know it goes! thanks for the help, greatley apreciated! Dr. olds

[Duramaster]

I don't know what you paid for the head studs, but the dealer cost at my dealership is $762 and some change and then I have to pay an additional 5% on top of that.

[madmatt]

I don't know what you paid for the head studs, but the dealer cost at my dealership is $762 and some change and then I have to pay an additional 5% on top of that.

What brand?? I can get some ARPs to you cheaper then that if you ever need them

[Kennedy]

FYI

We have the ARP studs, c grade and overbore/decked head gaskets as well as head bolt sets available in our online store and in stock here.

[Duramaster]

I don't need them. I was just trying to help Dr.Olds. I'm a stock guy myself. ;)

[dr.olds]

hey guys, thanks for the input. been a few weeks since we have spoken! got all parts for my Dmax, going back to gether with it as we speak, ARP head studs worked great, @ 650 bucks they better work, a little trouble with the stud at the rear of the left head, have to put the stud in the head before you set the head on the block, not enough clearance.hope to have her blowin smoke in a couple weeks! DR. OLDS:cool:

[dr.olds]

:cool: good news! got my LB7 running again runs like a top, head studs worked great! no leaks, no smoke , no rattles, other than a diesel rattle, but thats a good sound! thanks to all for the help!:cool:

[lb7lbz]

glad to hear its up and running i have to do gaskets on mine but am going to wait till spring if poss. about how many hours do u think u had in the job and how tough was it?

[dr.olds]

took about 30 35 hours, i didnt keep track very well, took about a day and half just to get down to the heads, and not really difficult , just time consuming. have to pull the right exhaust manifold off (dip stick runs between the head and manifold) leave left side on, leave intake manifolds on, just be carefull not to damadge inj. tip it sets below head deck, as do glow plugs, :cool: