View Full Version : centrifugal oil filter, a little help please!
I am looking into a centrifugal oil filter for my '96 6.5, one of these:
http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/lev1/404/divid/44
http://www.dieselcraft.com/EngineOilCleaningOC25.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/55-GPH-CENTRIFUGE-for-WVO-BIODIESEL-2ND-SET-OF-SEALS_W0QQitemZ190321949466QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item2c50127b1a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1205|293%3A3| 294%3A50
http://www.pacificp.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=202
Most if not all want an oil source that is as high a pressure as possible. So, where would be the best place to get high pressure oil? Where would be the easiest place to return the filtered oil? Also if anyone has any experience with any of these please share your thoughts. Can anyone recommend one brand over another? Best prices?
Thanks
I don't know what the new ones are like but if they are still like the old ones there is now way that I would ever replace my spin on with one of these.
Back in the 70's during one of the oil crunches the company that I worked for replaced all of the oil filters on their fleet of logging trucks. With in 2 years we lost every engine with a centrifugal filter on it. Those were the big Detroit Diesel 12v71 engines, a very expensive experiment.
Izusu has used them for years on their industrial engines, but they ran them with oil filters at the same time. The amount a crud that came out of the centrifugal was amazing, but we still did the filter change and changed oil at the scheduled interval. Those engines would last for ever if they made it past 1000 hours.
So if it was me doing this, I would use it just as an extra filtration and still change my oil the same interval, but to remove filters, and extend my oil change..................................
My $0.02 worth.
So if it was me doing this, I would use it just as an extra filtration and still change my oil the same interval, but to remove filters, and extend my oil change..................................
My $0.02 worth.
Yes, that was my plan from the beginning, to use it as a bypass/extra. My long term plan is to have a centrifugal filter, and an Amsoil type dual filter, and perhaps I might leave the stock filter in place. I haven't made up my mind completely yet.
By the way If you replaced the stock filters with one of these it is likely the engines were oil starved, as these types don't generally have any pressure on the outlet side. I don't know.
Really??? Only one person has anything to say on this??? Anyone?
High pressure port anywhere down stream of oil pump. Its the same pressure right before the oil filter, to the turbo inlet, or anywhere tapped into either side of the oil gallery.
Look in my photo album pics and it shows the oil path. I think there is a port for a center mount turbo that is plugged off under the intake.
Return to the oil fill spout or similar. Look at Heath diesel for ideas he offers a custom FS2000 kit iirc. I think he taps into port above oil filter pad. Look near the number 4 on the picture in my album.
DmaxMaverick
07-21-2009, 20:23
Really??? Only one person has anything to say on this??? Anyone?
You aren't going to get much positive support on this. Most folks either don't care (and don't care to comment), or feel it's a waste of money and effort. Very few will be on board with you. The truth is, none of the GM Diesel engine series have ever had any lubrication related issues when regularly serviced with quality products. If/when the engines die young or old, the internal quality is usually the same. There are exceptions, of course. But, that's all they are. There are no trends. It's been over 30 years now. If there were trends developing, we would have seen it.
That said, I agree with Beedee. No harm, as long as too much isn't expected, and isn't applied in such a way to defeat the filtration already standard (which has been effective for a century).
LanduytG
07-22-2009, 02:20
Biggest issue with using one on a small vehicle is the volume of oil it takes to make them work properly. They are very messy to service as well. Also they are way to much money. A good bypass system is $275 and replace filters that are changed about evry 40K miles are $30.
Greg
Biggest issue with using one on a small vehicle is the volume of oil it takes to make them work properly. They are very messy to service as well. Also they are way to much money. A good bypass system is $275 and replace filters that are changed about evry 40K miles are $30.
Greg
I would tend to agree.... I have a Amsoil bypass set-up on my 6.5 (naturally aspirated). Actually, I was wondering if anybody could tell me what the maximum oil pressure is likely to be on a 6.5 motor please? I am wanting to fit-up a oil pressure gauge and need to know if an 80psi (max) unit will suffice or do i need to get one that goes up to 100psi?
I like the look of the McNally gauges (2" dial gauge with digital readout, so that it can measure oil temp and pressure in the one gauge). I currently have a VDO oil temp gauge fitted to a port on the Amsoil head unit, but it barely ever gets off it's 50degree (Celcius) minimum level. I don't know whether the sender unit is stuffed or is the engine oil running too cool???
Thanks for any advice and sorry if I'm hijacking the thread.
Roachie
50C is 122F. You are measuring the oil at probably its coolest point at the filterhead.
Oil flows from the pump to the cooler, to the filter, then to the oil galleries. The filter acts kinda like a cooler too as the thin metal can is being air cooled.
The hottest point would be going to the cooler, sump, or right after the turbo.
I don't know what max oil temperature is according to GM or automotive people but Yanmar, Kubota, and Deutz say sump temps should not exceed approx. 125C or 248F with sustained loading. Kubota says intermittent temp 266F is ok but don't define the time duration. And it takes upwards of 1 hour to stabilize oil temps at thier maximum from a cold start. Its hard to hold a truck or car to a steady load that long.
Greg,
I looked at your website, under 6.2 6.5 duramax products, I could not find the bypass setup you are referring to. It could be I am just slow. Could you help me out?
Also the whole reason I got lookin' into the whole centrifugal oil filter thing is because TDP did a write up on the PPE spinner for duramax.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=33613
Do the duramax engines put out more pressure/volume to make this work?
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