6.2 Turbo questions???

[RonVan]

To the "Gurus of Diesel"..........I am about to invest in a new turbo for my 6.2L. This engine is in a 1990 Suburban 1/2 ton, new long block, new 4 core radiator w/dual 14" electric fans, new Monster 700R4 w/matching torque converter matched to an increase 30-40% of horsepower/torque with 10PSI boost. The truck currently has a (true) dual 2" exhaust.
This vehicle will be used to traverse the Wyoming/Montana open roads & mountain passes pulling a 7000 Lbs trailer on occasion.
I have read several different forums, looking for the right information, and managed to become more undecided than before I started. The Sidewinder was my first thought but now I do not believe it is the best.
It would appear that I will need a waste-gate and the design of the turbo varies greatly on use.
What about the PowerFlow turbo from Schoolcraft???????

Help please..............:confused:

[Robyn]

The sidewinder is not at all a bad choice.

The electric fans will not keep up with the airflow needed.
The stock fan with a good clutch will move far more air.

Out in the wilds of the Montana and wyoming High country, it gets HOT.

The 4 core radiator is a Plus for sure.

The 6.2 will respond real well with the side winder and about 1/4 turn more on the fuel screw in the IP.

The turbo RJ has is a great piece for sure but dont sell the Banks unit short.

The 6.2 will handle 10 PSI fine but unless your gonna aftercool the beast, leave the boost at that level.

EGT's at no more than 900F post turbo or 1100F in the manifold at the ports.

The little 6.2 creature will live happily all day long with these numbers.

If you find that the EGT"S get a tad over this, a water injector kit will drop these number a BUNCH.

Generally the Hot spots will happen on hard long pulls in hot weather (dry)

Cold damp weather will keep things real sweet if your air intake is sourced outside the engine bay.

The banks kits can be found reasonably priced, used.

Hope this helps

Missy Robyn

[RonVan]

Thanks Robyn!!!:)

I will definitely consider your expert advise! The engine runs hot(not as hot as the original engine did) when pulling long steep grades, with out a trailer. By hot I mean that it seems sluggish and reaches the 240 degree range. After babying the old engine, I find myself looking for things to go wrong with the new one. The new tranny should help as the old had 225K just like the engine.

I have to assume that the original engines performed at the very least without overheating all of the time or the ARMY would not have latched onto them. My oldest is a ARMY mechanic, and his stories of those Humv/Cucv doing their thing in Iraq keeps my 6.2 aspirations peaked.

[Robyn]

A good, properly opperating fan and clutch (factory) will keep the beast cool.

240F OMG :eek: tooooooooooo hot. 210 is about as hot as I like to see these things.

Normally the 6.2 will live and run happily even in hot weather at around 190F.

AIRFLOW< AIRFLOW<AIRFLOW

A buttload of air through the radiator is whats needed.
Electric fans can't pull enough.

Missy

[pologuy14]

has anybody run the electric ford taurus fan? 2 speed fan claims to move 3500-4500 CFM. plenty of people use them in my 4x4 group, but on gassers.

[convert2diesel]

I use a set of fans from a "9C1" Chev Caprice (93-96 police special) and a 4 core rad in the Buick Roadmaster. They are both 200watt fans (careful they both draw about 20 amps) but am not sure what the CFM rating is. All I know is that as long as the temp sender doesn't crap out, the temps never go above 200. Even on long hills with 3,000 lbs. out back.

Mind you, that is with a NA 6.2. Add a few more horsies and the fan setup may not be up to the task. Didn't have the room to put a mechanical fan in or I would. For the Caddy/6.5 turbo (or blower) conversion, I may try the hydraulic fan off a Cat, located on the other side of the rad. Will have to see.

Bill