DSG gear install help

[skark_burmer]

Im installing a set of DSG gears in my N/A 6.5 and something is amiss.
The bottom gear (on the crankshaft) on the DSG is about 20mm deep, the stock chain gear i took off is about 40mm deep.
So am i missing something here? The stock gear is one piece, and if there is 20mm free space what is to keep the DSG gear from walking its way forward?

You can see the different in width in the pic, the DSG gear is pressed on, the stock gear is sitting on the end.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb116/skark_burmer/65.jpg

[DmaxMaverick]

You got the wrong gear set. Your old sprocket is for a DS-4 (EFI), and the gear you have installed (new) is for a DB-x (MFI). The "extra" part on the old sprocket is the reluctor for the crank position sensor. If your engine is EFI, you will need the reluctor. If it's MFI, you can either make a spacer, get the correct (wrong) gear, or replace your balancer with an MFI balancer.

[skark_burmer]

Thank you very much for the info. I figured it was a crankshaft position sensor but didnt see why it was there. I think the motor is a Goodwrench replacement motor so i suppose they just slapped it on there for good times sake.

For the balancer; are the EFI ones better than the MFI ones, or is it just the depth of the sleeve that is the change. I am planning on purchasing a new balancer anyways but would rather get the higher quality choice for longevity issues.

Oh, im keeping it stock (besides the DSG gears, girdle, and ARP studs) 6.5, non turbo, mechanical and the serpentine belt.

Jeff

[trbankii]

With EFI vs. MFI one isn't exactly "better" than the other - just that the reluctor wheel is required for the crank position sensor as Dmax states.

You say that your 6.5 is NA, but you don't say whether it is EFI or MFI. For EFI, the engine isn't going to run without the reluctor wheel.

[john8662]

I'd reconsider the heads studs though...

They are almost impossible to seal in the water jacket, I'd stick with bolts for anything 300HP and lower.

J

[skark_burmer]

With EFI vs. MFI one isn't exactly "better" than the other - just that the reluctor wheel is required for the crank position sensor as Dmax states.

You say that your 6.5 is NA, but you don't say whether it is EFI or MFI. For EFI, the engine isn't going to run without the reluctor wheel.


I meant the harmonic balancer, if there was a difference between the versions that was of substance to make one more desirable than the other.
I did some research last night and am going to go with a Fluidampr so its kind of a moot point now. The 800191 apparently comes with a spacer so it will fit either width gear and i dont have to worry about it falling apart in death valley just feet away from Mansons house. "Hey, your K5 sounds funny..." ahh, good times...

As far as the studs go i have heard that teflon tape is the way to go for sealing bliss. I've already bought and installed them so i figure i'll give it a shot. And the fact that i think TTY bolts are a stupid idea guarantees that i'll never buy a set if i have a choice. Besides, if the teflon tape dosent work it wont cost me anything besides some time to get them to seal. I am going to run it for a while on the engine stand to see if they leak immediately, if not then hopefully they wont leak down the road.

What are people torquing them to? I only found one post and the value listed was 100 ft lbs. I also read in another post that the threads in the block will fail at around 150-170 ft lbs.

[john8662]

I was just offering a fair warning as I've resealed a set several times and have found no sure way of sealing them.

Just keep an eye on your oil level and the condition of deposits underneath the oil filler cap and in the CDR system (will make sludge, or water vapor there).

You'll also want to follow the torque valves that came with the studs, they're dependent on what lube you use, molly or engine oil (much higher for engine oil).

J

[skark_burmer]

Just keep an eye on your oil level and the condition of deposits underneath the oil filler cap and in the CDR system (will make sludge, or water vapor there).

You'll also want to follow the torque valves that came with the studs, they're dependent on what lube you use, molly or engine oil (much higher for engine oil).

J

You mean the engine dosent like chocolate milk as much as i do?

The studs came with a small sheet that said 200 ft lbs was recommended, which i thought was suspect at best. Never in my years have i heard of head studs going to 200ft lbs for any application.

[john8662]

90 ft lbs with moly 130 ft lbs with engine oil.

[skark_burmer]

Sweet! Thank you.

[Kennedy]

If this is a true mechanical injection truck you will want to use the proper balancer for the early mechanical engine. It has a longer "snout" to take up the extra space and capture the gear.

I too had some difficulty with leaky head studs and eventually the GM "Cadillac Tabs" were my magic bullet. It's just more critical to seal a stud than a bolt as it's just threads that you are sealing. The bolts provide an extra measure of sealing uner the rim of the head, but the coolant should not be that far.

[rogers]

I too had some difficulty with leaky head studs and eventually the GM "Cadillac Tabs" were my magic bullet.


Are those the packets of pills that you drop into the radiator?