2WD rear axle twisting

[Sinman]

I have a 2001 2500HD and when I stop and then start I get a thump/clunk noise that can be felt. When you stop and then just let off of the brake you get this noise. If you stop real slow, and I mean real slooooow it will not happen. It seems worse when warmed up. I got under the truck and checked everything to see if it was loose and only after rocking the truck back and forth while in park in the driveway i notice that the rear axle is twisting and making the same noise (pinion goes up and down).

I have done a lot of off road in Jeeps and I call this axle wrap. I checked the center pins in the springs and they are good and all seems to be tight. Shouldn't the leaf spring stop this to some point?


I did some searching on the forums and most of the reported issues are with 4WD and can be solved by lubing the slip joint in the drive shaft. I lubed my two piece drive shaft and this did not help. I did notice that the carrier bearing on the drive shaft has a rubber isolator that seems to be worn some, but can this case the problems that I am having?
Any idea of how to fix this.....

Thanks in advance for any ideas

[Mark Rinker]

Welcome...take time to fill out your profile with truck details, it will help us troubleshoot in the future.

My '02 developed a similar 'clunk' that was attributed to spring/pin eye wear. At about 250K, I asked the shop to take a look, and replace parts as necessary.

Suprisingly, they came back and gave the suspension a clean bill of health, but replaced the u-joints, which were worn out for the second or third time in the trucks lifespan.

How many miles? What kind of terrain? I'd get it up on a hoist, let the tires all hang, and start wiggling things, looking for the 'slop' that has developed. Some new spring bushings and bolts might be all that you need.

[Sinman]

Mark, thanks for the reply. The truck has 120K on it and has not been off road much at all. I was thinking to replace the spring bushings to see if this would correct the problem.

I too have replaced the u-joints to see if for some reason this would help.

[Kennedy]

This can often be traced to the drive shaft slip yoke needing lube. Stick-slip is what they call the condition.

[Sinman]

Well I pulled the rear drive shaft and lubed the splines on the two piece shaft a put them back together. This didnt seem to help at all. How much lube are we talking about? Do you only lube the splins or do you fill up the area around the boot also? It was bone dry when I pulled them apart. (not rusty just no lube)

[Kennedy]

Shouldn't take a lot. Noo need to pack, but GM has some special apple-butter looking stuff that they use. I think there may be more on this via TSB. Were your male end splines coated blue or plain steel?

[Sinman]

I checked with GM and they wanted $50 for the special lube, so i just tried some High Temp lube from the auto parts house. The splines were blue, what does that mean?

[Sinman]

The splines were blue, what does that mean?


Any one know the reason that he asked this question?

[jbplock]

Any one know the reason that he asked this question?

JK could be referring to Nickle plated vs Steel (??) .. There is a TSB on fixing drive line clunk that recommends replacing the slip yoke .. here's a summary ..

Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B, Date: January 05, 2005

Condition: Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
Cause: A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
Correction: Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke.

[Sinman]

He could be but mine is a 2 wheel drive and I dont have a transfer case.

I did pull the drive shaft again and lightly sanded the male splines and re-lubed it. It seems to be better but still not fixed.

[dually2002]

Condition: Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.


My truck shows the same symptoms but 2wd. My truck is a 02 crew cab long box dually.

[DmaxMaverick]

If it has a 2 piece driveshaft, the carrier bearing and isolator must be healthy. If they aren't, they can cause vibrations and the "axle wrap" symptoms.

[Sinman]

If it has a 2 piece driveshaft, the carrier bearing and isolator must be healthy. If they aren't, they can cause vibrations and the "axle wrap" symptoms.


That will be the next item that I replace. I pulled the drive shaft and sanded the splines to remove any burrs and lubed it. It seems better but I am still going to replace the carrier bearing assembly.

[NutNbutGMC]

That will be the next item that I replace. I pulled the drive shaft and sanded the splines to remove any burrs and lubed it. It seems better but I am still going to replace the carrier bearing assembly.
I had a 2001 - 2-piece. Same thing. Converted to a one-piece under a TSB / Warranty. Done deal, problem solved.


A word of caution, as silly as it sounds (it has happened), if you happen to go this route, make triple sure that they do not cut the cross-member to remove / reinstall.

Good luck.

[DmaxMaverick]

That will be the next item that I replace. I pulled the drive shaft and sanded the splines to remove any burrs and lubed it. It seems better but I am still going to replace the carrier bearing assembly.

I suggest you stop right where you are until the carrier bearing/isolator is remedied. You may be pursuing an untamed ornithoid.

[Sinman]

I replaced the Carrier Bearing or Driveshaft Center support bearing and all is good now...Much better, no more clunk when starting or stopping. If and when you replace this, there are two different sizes so be sure you get the correct one. I got mine at Advanced Auto parts.

Thanks for all of the assistance