Oil leak and Glo-Plug ?

[cgoffroad]

I have a 6.5 Non Turbo mated to a 4L80E from a Frito van that Im going to install into a Jeep CJ7. I dont know the VIN code because the van was crushed. I do know its a 506 block though. The IP is cable not Electric.

Today I started to pull all the accessories off the engine so i can start fabbing mounts and suspension work and i noticed the front of the engine is covered in oil. There is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of accumulation particularly around the oil fill port where it enters the water pump and the lower passerger side of the bolck of what im assuming is the oil pump.

Would this be a sign the oil pump is shot? I plan on a re-ring and gasket. Im just not prepared for a full rebuild.

My other question pertains to the Glo-Plugs. 4 of the plugs (2 on each side) are completly rusted and broken off flush at the head. The previous owner ran the engine for me before it was pulled and it ran fine. So are all 8 plugs necessary? And how should i get them out without damaging the heads.

Thanks
JW

[john8662]

The oil up front is probably just from spillage, it's really easy to do. The other leak sounds like valve cover leak.

BTW, the oil pump is underneath the oil pan, not tied in any way to the front of the engine, well (kinda is, but it's not located there).

J

[cgoffroad]

I looked a little further today and the gasket that the oil fill port passes through is cracked and torn on the bottom. The fill port was very loose.

I also looked at another TD 6.5 today and the spot where the oil is leaking from is an oil feed or oil return line. Ill have to trace back the lines to see where it leads.

Im still stumped on the Glo-Plugs. Im reluctant to drill them out, Iv been soaking them in PB Blaster for a week now but i have nothing to grip onto on the outside of the head. Im not sure about heat. And if i remove the heads and try to grip the plug head itself it might snap off and ill be further up river. Has any body had this problem before and how did you remove the plug?

Respectfully
JW

[DmaxMaverick]

The plug holes can be drilled, and chased with a tap. If you lose the threads, install a Heli-coil. Heli-coils are very easy to install, but can be costly if you don't have installation tools. A good machine/welding shop (really good) may be able to scarf the plugs out. The problem with this is the heat. Too much and you can damage the heads (hence the need for "really good"). I've done this a few times, and not always successful. As long as you don't destroy the head, Heli-coils work well if the torch fails, and the machine shops should have these on hand. Be sure to use a good nickel based anti-seize (silver color, not copper) when installing the new plugs, and you won't have this problem again. Also, don't use AC9G (the originals) or aftermarket equivelent plugs. The tips can swell when they fail, and get stuck in the head. I recommend AC11G, AC60G, or aftermarket "quick heat" plugs. AC60G plugs are the most durable and long-lasting, but usually require a longer glow cycle to start in cold weather.

The oil filler pipe grommet can be had. It's hard to find outside complete gasket sets. Although, it sounds like you might be in the market for a full set, anyway. Since you'll probably be this far into the engine during the swap, a complete refresh may not be a bad idea. It's never going to be cheaper than while it's already out and disassembled. You'll need more time, than money for parts (essentially gaskets, sealer, and some fasteners). You can do a complete refresh for less than a grand, and a long weekend.

[cgoffroad]

Thanks for the good info. Yesterday I drilled out one of the plugs. I have been soaking them daily in PB blaster and 4 bits into it and it backed out. After examining it it looks like only the surface and a thread or 2 were rusted. Im hoping that the other 3 go as easily.

As far as the grommet the refresh kit i purchased did not have this gasket. I found on at of all places NAPA. Im sending the block out to a shop for the refresh. I found some debris in the last 2 crank bearings so im hoping for the best.

Thanks JW