Power window

[Calvin 60]

I am having a problem with the drivers side window. It will stop operating in the up position and will start working after a few days. I have cleaned the plug in for the windows and nothing changed. The pasenger side window always works. Is anyone have this problem and what has been the fix?

[Herman_Bolger]

had the same problem with mine, worked when it wanted to. thought it was a bad spot in the motor, when i decided to sell the truck i had fix all the things that nobody else would tolerate. fixing the window was one. changed the power window switch and it worked perfect right away. funny how you can make excuses why not to fix somethings, then you need to sell the truck and, well have to fix this and this and this and, well you know. power locks were the same way. some ones driving a good truck now! oh but it was a gasser.

[DmaxMaverick]

I've had the same problem with every 1980's pickups and Blazer I've had (the 90's had cranks). It's always been the switch group on the driver's side. Replace once and good to go forever. I think the originals were bad from the OEM. The replacements (OEM) never had to be replaced, yet.

[tommac95]

I replaced my drivers side PowerWindow switch soon after buying my p/u, when window control was found intermittent. New switch worked fine. 10K miles and 2 years later, problem returned over last month . On several occassions the new switch received a dusting of 1/4--1/2" snow , but so did that on the psgr side , which has never failed . On this latter failure occasion i noticed that either the switch would 'work' or 'not work' for the duration of the ride {all short hops, typically 5-30 minutes, except two over two hrs}. I tentatively figured that either the motor brushes or harness connector were causal , jostled by door slam.

Before opening door i searched this forum and noted switch and rain as culprits , also door-window weather-seals . After opening door panels i noticed the motor connector seemed floppy at removal . The motor responded consistently to test leads connected to a battery , panel removed.

The standard mechanical grease on the connector/door terminals was all dried out. I scraped the terminals with a scribe, brushed with mineral spirits, flushed with Gumout carb spray cleaner (discoloring insulating plastic base) .
I used a Dremel plastic brush to clean the terminals on the harness side, and attempted to reform the terminals to optimize contact. Fresh silicone dielectric grease was applied to both motor and harness terms before reassembly ; care was exercised in re-attaching the connector to the motor .
It works nicely !

Notes:
>The motor connector is same type as used on power door locker. The long flap/tab on the side pulls out, then a thin blade (like .060"X.025", 3/8"long) releases the tang redundantly securing the terminal in the connector house. New connector terminals were found at Pepboys locally , but the original crimps and wires seemed A-OK.
>I think the cause of failure was poor technique installing motor connector , compounded by drying mechanical grease. I bother to post this because the motor seems fine despite age/mileage; and replacement of motor and switch, which was under serious/immanent consideration, would have been unecessary, and probably insufficient.
>I believe this is an example where the use of silicone dielectric compound is warranted. The silicone lacks reactive salts, and abhors water. On a tail lamp bulb , where there is better access, and expected component replacement , grease is probably just as good. Frequently the high current of a motor will help establish good contack, here the drying slime prevented that.
>I looked at the wiring diagram, not conclusively, but closely....The relevant harness ground appears to be by convenience-center/instrument panel.
The master (driver-side) door-window switch only works {my year obviously!} when the plug activating the power-door-lock(s) is also plugged in. Didn't analyse this. May mean ground is in series, or something else...

[Dihrdbowti]

I had that problem on my 99 Z28. Was hoping the switch but ended up being the motor. Haven't had the problem on the GMC.