ISSPRO Pyrometer w/ amplifier?

[Spindrift]

My Isspro Pyrometer just arrived. The package also came with a 10' lead wire which I thought would be all I needed to connect to the gauge itself. When I opened the box that contained the gauge, there was an "amplifier" included, in addition to the gauge itself. Has anyone seen or experienced this amplifier? It isn't shown on the ISSPRO website or the vendor's site. Where is the amplifier mounted...on the firewall? If the wire from the amplifier is long enough to reach the thermocouple, can I leave out the 10' lead wire? I'm also planning to weld the bung for the thermocouple in the crossover pipe assuming that this location will give me my highest temperture reading. Thoughts?
Thanks.

[Jim H.]

I assumed that the pyrometer does not have a lot of output so they used an amplifier. I put mine under the dash.

[MTTwister]

only information s from waht i've read - but - the amplifier I believe goes between the Thermo couple leads and the gauge - try and mount it in the cab - maybe behind the kick panel or up under the dash. It translates the Pyro prode signal to the gauge...

Some have drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold to point at #7 cylinder..others drill crossover, others under the turbo ( pre-turbo), others down pipe. No real help on this - but cross over should be 'pre-turbo' temp!

Anybody - Can you use the 'clamp-in' style probe on the cross-over?

[gmctd]

That's the "new" style Isspro gage - 270deg sweep, identical movement as in the GM gages.
It's a two-pole meter calibrated to the length cable supplied - mount the amp anywhere within reach of the 4-cond meter cable, but do not shorten that cable.

The pyro-probe cable may be shortened, or extended with thermocouple wire, without affecting meter-amp calibration.

A clamp-on probe would most likely give best response clamped to the down-pipe, right below the turbo flange.
The cross-over pipe is too exposed to air flow when the vehicle is in motion for an external-type probe.
Try it both places - see which you think is best.

[Dvldog 8793]

howdy
The Amp can be mounted anywhere but as stated should be kept inside if possible. I ended up covering mine with insulation to kill the transformer whine/whistle. Some people hear it others don't. The Transformer doesn't make enough heat to really cause a problem. I mounted my probe in the down pipe about 10in from the turbo. If you use the clamp on probe watch to make sure that the probe stay perpendicular to the pipe as the clamp like to pull it when you tighten it down. ISSPRO told me not to cut/slice/shorten ANY of the wires.
Hope this helps...
L8r
Conley

[MTTwister]

gmctd - Actually I was thinking of the probe where you drill a hole in the pipe and clamp the probe in place with what looks like a screw-band clamp.

Am I mistaken in how those work? An external clamp-on would just snug up to the outside of the pipe? Doesn't seem like that would be anyway near the 'best' type, but would be the easier solution.

[gmctd]

The outside clamp-on is the only type I had seen.
If it's a drill-and-insert type, then I, too, would put it in the crossover, just below the driver-side flange.
As stated above, keep the probe perpendicular to the pipe wall for max response.

Mine is drilled and tapped, using a 1/4" stainless (brass will work) compression-type fitting in the driver side manifold, above the flange.
Very good response there, very accurate indication of actual EGT - it hasn't been cooled by road draft over the crossover pipe.

The thermocouple cable can be extended without affecting accuracy by using thermocouple wire of the same type.
Several types of wire are associated with thermocouples.

The Isspro uses Type K, of ni-chrome and alumel, suitable to 2300deg. It's red\yellow.

Some cheaper versions use Type J, of iron and copper-nickel, suitable to around 1400deg. It's red\white.

The probe itself is made by welding the type wires together.

Splicing with any other type of wire changes the voltage generated by the probe, defeating its inherent accuracy.

'nother words - no old taillite wiring or old tv cords. ;)

[rjwest]

When I ordered my ISSPRO gage they asssked if it would be Before or After turbo....

I think this was to give you the Gage with the
Red/Yellow range markings in approiate place.
( not to sure on this , Getting forgetfull ).
Best Call ISSPRO...

I Did order the????? ? new,much better,fancy light model ).

[tom.mcinerney]

JD: 1.)Is this so?
>Mine is drilled and tapped, using a 1/4" stainless (brass will work) compression-type fitting in the driver side manifold, above the flange.
"driver side"?
2.) Who sells SS compression fittings???

[gmctd]

Stainless is correct, Tom - Swagelok, Nu-Pro, and maybe Whitey oem. 1/4" tube to 1/8" npt, thru-drilled for probe insertion.
I think maybe McMaster-Carr sells the lines, but check with local industrial supply houses, such as Rawson.

Those are stainless 45deg compression fittings on my Racor installation, to maintain factory fuel lines with o'ring-sealed connections. 3/8" tube to 1/4" npt. 3/8" npt would direct fit Racor without adaptors.

Also have 1/2" stainless "T" compression fittings on the engine oil cooler lines, with Isspro temp sender in each "T" for IN and OUT temps. 1/2"tube x 1/2"tube x 1/2"tube.

Same scheme with the T400 cooler lines in 5/16" tees, dual Isspro probes.

And - "driver side" exhaust manifold :confused:
;)

[ 01-27-2004, 01:53 PM: Message edited by: gmctd ]

[MTTwister]

gmctd -

"Mine is drilled and tapped, using a 1/4" stainless (brass will work) compression-type fitting in the driver side manifold, above the flange."

How easy is this location to get at? esp with the engine in the truck?
I'd like to do a pre-turbo, but trying to decide 'easiest' location.

My current thought, If i was doing an exhanst chnage, and had to remove the turbo to intake connection for a Boost probe, I would be 4 bolts and 2 oil lines from removing the turbo - Oh and the vacuum line too, I guess. Is THIS a feasible idea - pulling the turbo, I mean? Thanks. Anyone else, of course, jump in.... smile.gif

[rjwest]

I installed after turbo in down pipe, I know not the best but I use as referance, ISSPro has a
yellow range for ,post turbo application.

To install ( new staright down pipe ( a real gotta have )) already had Bung welded in place...


Easy install.

[gmctd]

MTTwister -

The driver side exhaust manifold curves down to the crossover pipe flange just past the rear exh port in the head.
I installed the probe in that inside curve, about level with the upper oil cooler line, from beneath the truck. Very easy to see and work with on my engine.

May require front driveshaft disconnect\removal in the '88-up K-trucks to access that area.

Drilling just below the turbo flange may not require turbo removal, if the engine is idling. Exhaust pressure, even at idle, is higher than Baro and will blow the shavings out (and in to your face, so do wear saftey glasses\shield while drilling\tapping!).

Drilling cast iron does not make large curly shavings, which could damage the turbine fan.
You'll get very small (1/16") curls and powder, so it's feasible to accomplish the task with the engine running, say right after first crank-up, coolant temps at ambient so you don't get burned.

Requires removal of the intake manifold-to-turbine housing crossbrace and the turbine heat shield.

Probably will require a 3/4" x 24" plywood sheet laid across towels on the front fenders, similar to what I use for any extensive engine work from the top side.
Gives a good flat area to kneel or lay on.

Just add the downpipe connection to the list of to-do when R&R'ing the turbo.

If pulling the intake plenum, remember to immediately stuff the intake manifold opening with a one-piece cloth towel, and lay another over that.
The combustion area is the top of the piston and the head - no room for anything solid that may have fallen into the intake, unnoticed.

As rjwest indicates, Isspro offers EGT gages, identical electrically, but operating range is labeled for 'pre' or 'post' turbo, a difference of about 300deg.
Select the correct range for your probe location to help protect your engine.