A plethora of issues and questions...

[efialtis]

So, my new transmission is in, and running just fine!
It has been a couple years since this truck ran regularly...
I will be using up the old fuel in the tanks for the next few days, but then I will have to fill with new...

1. it seems to run colder than I would expect. Takes a while to heat up... is it just because it is a big V8 and I am used to a 4 cylinder? Or is it that I need to replace a stuck thermostat?

2. the door panels are hammered. Is there a source to buy good used or new door panels? (the upper part with the handle (also needed) and pull strap (also needed)...

3. I have both a 10" and 12" sub...but the box to install the sub behind the seat is simply too big (it is a wedge style, made for trucks...) Is there a box that fits, or something I can install under the passenger seat, or should I forget it and get bigger watt 6x9's or something?

4. The exhaust is about ready to be replaced. Holes are developing between the exhaust manifold and the mufflers...
- is there a size/style/brand of muffler that is good for these trucks - give a nice sound, without sounding like a semi?
- are there headers (not the stock manifold) that work with this truck?

5. I was thinking about going with the solid rear window; pros? cons? other opinions on this idea?

6. Are there any tail lights that have an amber turn signal for this truck?

7. Are there any other "necessary" upgrades/changes for this truck?

Y'all have been extremely helpful so far, thank you for your opinions and advice!

[john8662]

1. it seems to run colder than I would expect. Takes a while to heat up... is it just because it is a big V8 and I am used to a 4 cylinder? Or is it that I need to replace a stuck thermostat?

Pretty normal and a good thing IMHO, what temperature does it reach when it stabilizes?



2. the door panels are hammered. Is there a source to buy good used or new door panels? (the upper part with the handle (also needed) and pull strap (also needed)...

Research on the net for LMC truck, also Chevy Duty (probably named somethign else now). These two places have what you're looking for.



3. I have both a 10" and 12" sub...but the box to install the sub behind the seat is simply too big (it is a wedge style, made for trucks...) Is there a box that fits, or something I can install under the passenger seat, or should I forget it and get bigger watt 6x9's or something?

Not an engine question, but feel free to post a thread in the Chassis Section, and when you find one, let me know, cuz my stereo's all suck in my trucks.



4. The exhaust is about ready to be replaced. Holes are developing between the exhaust manifold and the mufflers...
- is there a size/style/brand of muffler that is good for these trucks - give a nice sound, without sounding like a semi?
- are there headers (not the stock manifold) that work with this truck?


The factory exhaust size is 2.25", which is large enough, but you could upgrade to 2.5". I'd suggest regular mufflers, as they're quiet, and allow you to hear the engine verses the rumble of the exhaust. Personal preference, and something to talk with your local exhaust shop about.




5. I was thinking about going with the solid rear window; pros? cons? other opinions on this idea?

Pro: won't rattle or leak, leaves a way to break in when you lock your keys inside

Cons: you'll get to call pop-a-lock when you lock your keys inside, and you will be less one window on that hot day with no A/C.



6. Are there any tail lights that have an amber turn signal for this truck?


LMC Truck and ebay, these are common trucks to mod.



7. Are there any other "necessary" upgrades/changes for this truck?


General maintenance, service the fuel filters after burning all that old fuel, fix all that it needs. These are good reliable engines that let you know when they need help (hard starting = glow plugs, air in fuel, or starting system worn, etc.).

J

[efialtis]

1. I have no idea...the temp gage or sender is bad as it reads nothing all the time...just another thing to add to the list

2. Two Thumbs Up on LCM Truck and (what is now) Classic Parts (was Chevy Duty)...excellent resources...now to save up a few pennies for some replacement stuff...

3. The only place that I can find to install a sub would be in a very low profile, elongated box...maybe 2 x 8" subs...maybe a 10"...but it would have to be a custom build...I cannot find anything else...
-- you might be able to fit an 8" sub in the center front speaker hole up on the dash...
--an 8" in a custom box on the floor just in front of the 4wheel selector/shifter (even a 10" and maybe a 12" might fit in a custom box built there...)

4. I'll just stick with the stock size of exhaust...And I found a couple sets of headers for the truck...about $550 or so, and one is chromed...I don't like chrome...but it would help the mileage and sound...

My new transmission is great...but I think I need to adjust the Kick Down (detent cable) it just doesn't feel right when I stomp on the gas...

I installed my stereo with 2 6x9s and 2 3.5s...I was thinking about installing a couple 6" rounds in the door, but then I would have to hook up my amp...
Right now, with the small space in the cab, I get GREAT sound...(jvc sterio(with usb connector) and blaupunkt speakers...)

Guess I need to find the fuel filter...I only have about 1/8th a tank left...

Thanks again for your info and advice!

[HillBilly2]

4. I'll just stick with the stock size of exhaust...And I found a couple sets of headers for the truck...about $550 or so, and one is chromed...I don't like chrome...but it would help the mileage and sound...

My new transmission is great...but I think I need to adjust the Kick Down (detent cable) it just doesn't feel right when I stomp on the gas...

Thanks again for your info and advice!

I've never heard of 6.2 headers, and I question the advantage on a diesel, especially if your not going to go with a larger exhaust system.

[DmaxMaverick]

Stan's Headers has headers for several 6.2L chassis applications (Summit used to carry them, don't know now). They work on N/A engines, the same as they do for gassers. Exhaust scavenging will increase performance. Larger exhaust isn't required (although it may be desired), as the OEM pipes aren't too small (as we would expect, because OEM's always seem too small). Headers, H-pipe (tuned balance pipe), free flow mufflers, optimized timing and pump fueling, open/large intake, dual air cleaner (stacked), and a hotter thermostat (195-205°), with a well working remainder of the system), will increase performance significantly. So much so, many folks who have done this feel a turbo is no longer necessary. An added bonus is about a 20% gain in fuel economy over a turbo. I've done all but the headers on my 85 (and eliminated the EGR), and the improvements are night and day.

[efialtis]

DmaxMaverick,
My experience with Diesel is the 1.6 n/a VW Diesel, I had 2 of them for a total of about 10 years and about 500K miles...

What is the EGR, and what needs to be done with it to get better performance?

Double Stack the air cleaners? Is there room for that under the hood, or do I gotta start thinking about modifications?

As I mentioned, I would like to go with the headers and a more "sport tuned" exhaust...
But that will have to wait till I have several hundred to spend...

What about "optimized timing and pump fueling"...??? Is this something that I can get done in any shop, or do I have to find a diesel racing specialist, or ... heaven forbid, can I do it myself? (if so, what tools do I need?)

I think I am gonna have a little fun with this...

[efialtis]

Ok, so I did some due diligence, and found the EGR is "Exhaust Gas Recycling"...now I just need to find the best method for bypassing it ...

[DmaxMaverick]

While I can only recommend "bypassing" an emission control device for "off road use only", there are a couple approaches. The best method is to replace the intake manifold with a J model (J is the 8th digit of the VIN, denoting the engine series, including HP and smog status). Another option is to remove the EGR actuator, and plug the hole with a freeze plug (like you'd use for the expansion plugs in a block). Or, the least effective method, is to just disconnect the vacuum tube from the actuator, plug both ends, and/or plug the hole in the air cleaner assy. J code intake manifolds can be had a wrecking yards, or occasionally on Ebay. Not very expensive, but not free.

The stacked air cleaner method will fit under the hood. The method was actually originated here on TDP, by Lee Swanger. Affectionately referred to as the "SA Air" intake (Swanger-Avant, IIRC). Longer all-thread will be needed to replace the stock studs, and essentially two OEM filters can be stacked and secured. A better option would be to fabricate an enclosure for the gap opening (to source cooler air from outside the engine compartment), but more, less restricted air is better, however you get it in there.

The optimized timing/fueling are the free bonus things you can do. But, I recommend the exhaust/intake first, and the addition of an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gage. Better performance does no good if you melt it down in the process. At the very least, install the gage before you start messing with fuel and timing. More on that, as you need it.

Nothing wrong with the VW micro-Diesels. Gotta start somewhere.

[efialtis]

I will keep my eye out for the J intake...there are a LOT of 1 ton trucks at a wrecking yard not too far from here...
But until then, I will use the plug method...

I like the idea of opening up the air flow, so I will stack the air cleaner... I was planning on grabbing another bunch of "spare parts" to play with...this one will be cheap. I can cut out the bottom and use rubber molding to hold the 2 together. Longer all-thread and it should be easy...

Do you recommend K&N or just the "stock type paper" elements?

I have found a bundle of EGT Gages... which brings up the next few questions...

Any special mounting instructions for the sensor? Is the "clamp-on" version just fine? Best place to install? (right after the exhaust manifold?) I have dual exhaust, so do I need a dual gage? or is one side good enough? And what is the appropriate temp reading? I have found 700-1700 and 500-2000 temp gages...

Also, what is the normal operating temp for the diesel (water temp??)...I have read that 195 is the thermostat temp, so I would imagine that 195-210 is a good temperature...??

I am going to remove the clutch and fan and add 2x14" electric fans. I will set one to about 195 or 200 to kick ON (off is usually 10 degrees lower than that) and the other to come on at 230. I will use the AC bypass on fan #2...

I have a couple "oil coolers", things that have been hanging around here for years. I was wondering if I should use them on the Transmission and Oil lines...is this necessary? Or should it be kept cool enough without them? And if I choose to install them, which line(s) are the "inputs" (into the radiator) and which are the "outputs"... if I remember right, the TOP ones are inputs and the bottom are outputs...

Thanks for your help and advice...I will be doing some of this over the weekend, as I work on my motorcycle...with the weather warming up, it is time to start thinking about a road-trip... ;-}

[DmaxMaverick]

Your air cleaner plan should work. Stay away from K&N if at all possible. The stock paper is plenty fine.

The clamp-on style and one side is fine (as long as your fuel system is healthy--no injectors falling behind). Or, you can drill/tap the exhaust manifold. Your choice. The 7-1700° is within your usable range, but the 2K° thermocouples last a lot longer. I recommend the 2K°.

If it already has a 195° stat in it, that should be fine. I wouldn't go higher if you plan on removing the engine driven fan.

And, I would not set the second electric fan higher than 210°. Much above that, and the temps get beyond control under load (unable to recover). The removal of the engine driven fan will make this more sensitive to the point of no return. I suggest getting the oil/tranny coolers into the forced air stack as best you can.