nv4500 removal....help!!!

[94bluehd]

I am in the middle of changing the clutch and have the TC out, and the transmission (nv4500) unbolted. However, it won't slide out because the shift lever housing sticks up through the floor and hits of the hole in the floor when I slide the transmission back????? Should I have left it connected to the bell housing? How do I get this thing out of there?

thank you

[simon]

Maybe loosen the down pipe and/or take the 2 motor mount bolts out to give you more tilt.
With the bell housing attached the tranny dont have to slide back that far before the shaft clears the clutch.
I never done a Gm yet,just a bunch of dodges.On them there was just enough clearance if I jacked the front of engine up.

Let me know what works, I got one to do end of april.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

I can help you on this one if I understood you correct. I have removed my tranny five or six times now, and ran into a huge issue the first time with the shifter ball hitting the pan. Use two flathead screwdrivers to push down on the ball and turn it. It should pop out.

Place a piece of wood under the engine and jack it up slowly until it is almost touch the firewall. You should be able to slide it back easily then. Leaving the bellhousing on would be a mistake. Trust me on that. :D

[JohnC]

...Use two flathead screwdrivers to push down on the ball and turn it. It should pop out.


Yup! That's the trick.

[94bluehd]

thanks a bunch....I'll keep you posted.

[JohnC]

IIRC, turn it CCW to get it out. Basically, push down and twist the "cap".

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

IIRC, turn it CCW to get it out. Basically, push down and twist the "cap".

LOL, forget to mention that. Good luck. Well you are in there. Check your pilot bearing, your throwout fork, and the ball stud. For the amount they cost, if they are worn or cracked, it is well worth it to replace them.

[a5150nut]

I've always just removed the entire shifter. Top cover and all. Unscrew the shift handle then remove the top cover. Then place a couple shop rags in the top to keep dirt out.

Tried one of them fancy transmission jacks once. Went back to a floor jack. Much easier to line up going back together. And don't forget to take the clutch line loose from the master cylinder BEFORE moving things around. :D

[94bluehd]

All the tricks worked! thankyou!

But......the pilot bearing is siezed up and needles are all over inside the hole. Tried a pilot bearing puller but with the width of the dual mass, I can't get behind the bearing and it is really in there. Remove the FW? How to hold the FW still to remove the bolts and keep the wrench from turning the crank?

When I tipped the trasmission down in the back, a big gear and some rings slipped right out...shouldn't they have been held in with snap rings? also, pilot bearing seize created some wear on the transmission shaft. How big of a deal is this. Do I need to get a kit for the transmission?????

[94bluehd]

anyone....I am desperate here.

[a5150nut]

Get ahold of Drivetrain.com and talk to John. Or was it Jack. Older guy in the parts dept. He know the boxes and they have an upgrade for 5th gear retainer. Thats what fell out the back. They ship out of Vegas.

[Hubert]

Try to sand down the input shaft snout and see what it looks like. My bearing needles gaulled onto the shaft building it up but the shaft was actually ok. Clean it up with sandpaper and see what you get. The input shaft is pretty hard and the bearing needles gualled material will sand down pretty easy. If still bad you can get a whole new input shaft or have it speedie sleeved by a an appropriate machine shop. Try quad4x4 dot com, standard transmission dot com, or nv4500 dot com. You'll have to find a decent slide hammer tool puller and yank the bearing race of the pilot bearing out of the flywheel. Just set the grip tool as best you can take your time and wiggle it around and find the best bite.

I have taken the shifter out of the older 3 speeds with granny low SMJ ??? trans but I took the whole shift tower off the NV4500 - gives you a little more room. Then filled it by pouring in the open top when putting back together. Also, remember to hook up the reverse wire switch on reassemble its near impossible to get back to it when done.

What gears are you talking about coming out or off??? Was everything working before? 5th gear has some kind of lock nut that sometimes comes undone. Look over at quad4x4 dot com for some info on that they have a king nut king torque nut or something like that.

[a5150nut]

Call / Google drivetrain.com out of Vegas. Talk to Jack or maybe it was John. He's the older guy in the parts dept.. He knows these boxes and he is honest. The parts that fell out the back is 5th gear. They have an upgrade for that and it works. I have it in mine. They ship when promised and parts arrive when they are supposed to.

[94bluehd]

Wow, thanks everyone. I dealt with Drivetrain when I rebuilt my TC (input went Kaput). Very good to deal with.

Now,,,,I had to resort to the hammer and chisel and go real slow but I got the pilot out of the end of the crank. It has been bad for a while.

attached pics, first three are of the 5th gear stuff (?) that fell out, I will call Drivetrain tomorrow. What causes this to happen? That bushing is curled over on one end and the gear appears to have a little wear on the end too. FORGOT TO ADD, THERE WAS NOT UNUSUAL NOISE(S) COMING FROM THE TRANSMISSION AND IT SHIFTED GREAT?!?!!?

4th pic is of the pilot shaft on the transmission, does it look OK?

5th is the FW, No deep blueing or any cracks or anything, I can still see some original tooling marks in the face. Should I take the Dual Mass apart and clean everything, is there a rebuild kit?

[Hubert]

The input shaft looks ok to run again. Mine at first looked worse. From the picture that groove looks like the seal wore it down and not much bearing needle induced damage. Typical I would say. Polish it with a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and use a Kevlar or bronze bushing. It probably won't last as long as a new shiny smooth one with 100% good bearing surface but not sure of the life difference is worth it.

I don't know about the dual mass flywheel. Have read you have to have a dual mass mfg rebuild them. They dissassemble, grind faceplate separate, and put in new springs etc. I'll defer that to someone else. My opinion only: if money wasn't too tight I'd get the SMF kit and replace.

Basically vibration of the diesel compression/power pulse and torque surge through the drivetrain loosens the nut over time. Dodge had a worse problem than GM.

[trbankii]

Might be a little late, but 6.5DD went through clutch replacements last summer and detailed our escapades here (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=31207).

For the pilot bearing, I had the same thing - in pieces with needles everywhere. Here (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=26304) was a discussion on that bugger.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Your input shaft doesn't look that bad. Give it a good cleaning with some sandpaper as was recommended and don't worry about it.
That O/D, do you do a lot of heavy towing with it? Something was loose and causing some wear.
I have gone with SM setups the last two times. DM just seemed like there was to many little things that could go wrong. I have used the SM while towing heavy loads and so far it has performed well.
As for the flywheel, I would inspect it very closely before you put it back in. It has had some wear from the picture.
Good luck and hope it all comes back together.

[94bluehd]

This is the first time I've pulled a FW so I have nothing to base it on. However, all those marks look like some kind of dark stains. There is no grooves in it and it is perfectly smooth. What do I need to look for in the back...all the springs and stuff are intact?

I just called the Chev Dealer here and explained the condition of my FW. they suggested it might be alright just to clean the face with a light emery cloth.

Also, I called Drivetrain.com and Bart gave me the number to Scott at Midwest Transmission Center. He was very helpful and told me to inspect the 5th gear, if it fits without ANY play, I can re-use it and perhaps just get new retainer/spacers if the mainshaft checks out OK>

[94bluehd]

Bad news on the 5th gear, lots of play on the shaft. both the gear and the shaft have wear. I might as well get a whole kit for the transmission and rebuild it while it is out, maybe get another 140K? With that, I don't have a choice but to reuse the FW:( this is getting expensive.

[ironridge]

I know I'm a little late on this post but I thought I would throw in my story. Had trouble with the pilot brg on my 90 6.2 a few years back. Siezed up as yours did, chewed up the input shaft pretty bad. They wanted $450.00 for a new one so I took the old one out and welded the end up, turned it back down. I thought what the hay. Put in a new brg. (mistake) lasted about 20k. (first one went 100k). So I jerked the tranny again same story input chewed up. This time I was pissed so I welded it up while it was still in the trans, then I ground it down and filed it to fit.Went to napa and got a bronze bushing for the older applications. That was 220k ago and still going strong.

[94bluehd]

Thanks for the info....I replaced the pilot w/ OEM. If that goes, I will follow your lead, I have a bushing already. Also, check out the NP241 problems under the drivetrain forum.