Help selecting a welder and jig

[Lonesome7.3]

I have been out of the game so long; I do not know what is out there. This is what I want, something that can modify cast iron steering knuckles and repair ATV frames. I would prefer getting a new mig, but I do not know if there are any that can weld on cast iron. I know you get what you pay for, but I am not looking for the highest price machine out there. Something from Harbor fright would be nice. I will use it for welding truck frames, building suspension components, building ATV/motor cycle frames, and a myriad of other stuff. I currently have a little Craftsmen mig that I believe Lincoln built. It has done great so far, but I do not think it is big enough for the big stuff I plan to build when I return home. Shoot me some ideas and please keep it simple.

Oh yeah, the jig. I know I can build one from metal table, but I am just wondering if there is something else out there.

[Lonesome7.3]

By the way. This is the list of tools I plan to buy before I go home. I want to make number six a welder.
Tool List
1. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Bandsaw
ITEM 93762-5VGA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93762
2. 20 Ton H-Frame Shop Press
ITEM 97022-1VGA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97022
3. 34" Radial Floor Drill Press
ITEM 44846-8VGA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44846
4. Self-Centering Drill Press
ITEM 92046-9VGA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92046
5. Heavy Duty Combination Belt/Disc Sander
ITEM 40643-7VGA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40643
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[trbankii]

Considering that you're saying vehicle frames, cast iron, and such my vote would be against a Horrible Fright welder - if for no other reason that you'll be SOL if you have to get any parts for it. To me, welders aren't supposed to be disposable.

You don't say what price range you're talking, but I picked up a used MM250X for around $900 and a used Syncrowave 250DX with water cooler for $2K. I seem to recall that wire is available to weld cast iron. And rod if you want to TIG.

[Lonesome7.3]

I mis-spoke, I meant cast steel. I was thinking I can buy a good welder to fit all my needs for under $2500.

[gophergunner]

Personally I would buy either a Miller or Lincoln. Something I know I would be able to get parts for in several years after purchasing.

Each companies have a wide range of machines to pick from. If you're real ambitious I would suggest a machine that can do stick, mig, flux core and tig welding. Then you would be able to weld anything you like.

But I guess it all comes down to budget as well.

[Lonesome7.3]

I am leaning towards a Millermatic right now. I am going to check them out when I get home.

[Robyn]

I have a millermatic 250 and have had for quite a while.

One of these will do most anything you will ever need to do around your private shop.

I also own a small Miller square wave tig machine.

The Millermatic 250 is a great choice and can be found at reasonable prices.

I bought my tig machine off ebay.
A small synchrowave unit with foot pedal and other goodies.

Robyn

[Lonesome7.3]

How much did the tig go for? That sounds like something I wild like to get later on.

[JohnC]

check out http://www.grizzley.com/ Still mostly Chinese, but a couple of cuts above most of the harbor freight stuff.

[Lonesome7.3]

I have not heard of them thanks.

[Kennedy]

I haven't kept up with things lately, but I say True Blue all the way. I have a 250x and it works well. One thing I did up front was to go with a 15' Bernard gun. I can't stand teh chinsy little compression fiting tips on the Tweco guns. The Bernard shild friction slides on and the tips quarter turn/cam loose/tight.

Might consider a longer ground also.

I'm sure Miller has had quite a few advancements. I'd try to find a local shop that sells them and see if you can demo one. Starting electronics and efficiency of operation are some areas that I am sure improved.

I'd suggest something that accepts a spool gun easily so you can do aluminum and other metals easily.

[Lonesome7.3]

Thanks, that is good advice.

[WelderSki]

Lonesome7.3,

All the recomendations given are good, for welding cast steel.

On your list why would you need a self-centering drill? I suggest being so close to Fort Benning, I'd give them a call to ask about any surplus equipment they may have for sale or auction.

And I'd direct you to check out Grizzly Tools, online before you buy anything. Just a phone call to ask for their catalog is worth the call. The Welding machines they have are Hobarts, on page 580 and 581, the Tigmate, (tig and stick) will handle 1/8" and 5/32" welding rods. You would mostly be using low hydrogen, 7018, 12018. But you should also consider an Oxy-Actylene torch outfit, for pre-heating cast steel, and post heating. Also consider making a slow cooling container on heavy duty caster wheels deep enough for the parts you will be welding, filled with one or two large bags of dry Vermeculite.

If you've been welding for any period of time you know fully the importance of wearing leathers and boots without laces. Leather gloves w/cuffs (more than one pair) are not for picking up hot parts. The new Oven Mits are better then asbestos ones, but they are a good choice to.

As for a Jig table, a trip to the scrap yard, for 1/2"- 3/4" thick plate (4'x6') and 16'-0 of 3" black pipe, one sq. ft. of 1/4" plate cut into 4- 6"x6" would give footpads to the table legs, and would make a quick table, that you can weld jig blocks and goal-posts on it's top surface to hold parts, as will 3x3 angle iron to form a V, for shafts. You could always add angle stiffners later, and a middle shelf.

Good luck, best wishes, be safe!

Ski

A gal once want me to do a jig with her........ so I welded her to the table! :D

[Lonesome7.3]

I got a Millermatic 252 a couple of weeks ago. So that part is done. The stuff that comes out of Fort Benning is junk. I have looked at severl things they had up for sale and none of it was worth the time to even go get it.

[Pipeline Mechanic]

I have found that a mag drill supersedes all need for a drill press,
especially with a good shop table. I spent under a grand on broaches and drill.
Just watch out for junk sellers.

Also at least a 50T press would be preferable, at least they are built out or stronger material.

Good choice on the Millermatic too.

[Lonesome7.3]

I am not even close to being able to afford any more shop equipment for a while. I think a torch should be my next purchase.

[Pipeline Mechanic]

Sorry didn't know you didn't already have a torch. It is the single most versatile tool you can have. Way back when, my grandfather was one of the best "acetylene" welders around. There are literally thousands of gas services to homes in the south that he welded with a torch.

I would suggest a Victor Jr. torch, it weighs about half as much as the standard victor and you can get all the same attachments. I have cut 2" plate with no problems, so don't let anyone tell you that you need a bigger torch.

As part of my field service work I rebuild excavator buckets and anything else they can tear up, so be assured I won't lead you wrong. ;)

[Lonesome7.3]

Yeah, if you repair those I am willing to bet you know a thing ot two about working metal. If I look into buying a used torch, what all should I be aware of?

[Pipeline Mechanic]

Well I would stay with Victor or another more common brand, that way you can get parts for it if necessary. Since you may not get to try it out, the best advice I can offer is to operate all of the valves, making sure they turn freely and smoothly. Pull the trigger and it should have some spring back, making sure it doesn't want to bind at any point. The cleaner in appearance, the better shape it will be in. Make sure the threaded hose connections are not damaged.

Here is a deal for you;
http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-ACETYLENE-CUTTING-TORCH-2_W0QQitemZ200390345010QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_0?hash=item2ea8320132

Also a good friend of mine will be in from IA in a few weeks and he has an aluminum tool box with torch, hose, regulators, welding leeds and some other misc
welding stuff that he was asking $300 for.

[Lonesome7.3]

That brings up another question. Howm much (approx.) would I have to spend to get all of it including regulators. I am not worried about the tanks cart or hose right now, just everything else.

[Pipeline Mechanic]

I go to the local welding supply and rent bottles and when they are empty just trade them in for full ones. I would have to dig out an invoice to verify costs, you would be better off just going to yours and asking them. I would hate to quote you my price and then you get another unexpected increase in price.

I use whatever regulators I can get my hands on, I am hard on them on the service truck, it never fails they get something thrown against them if the vibration doesn't get them first.

Here is another deal for you;

http://cgi.ebay.com/Harris-Regulators-Victor-Torch-Hoses-Welding-Set_W0QQitemZ300354855206QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item45ee8b6126

I wouldn't want the torch, regulators and hose looks okay though.

[Lonesome7.3]

If I had the money right now I think I would jump on that.

[Pipeline Mechanic]

How many of those M35's you got left? OK, how many of them are in drive out condition?

I may have enough to interest you in a trade, although the wife will threaten my life if I add another truck to the lot.

[Lonesome7.3]

I am down to three. One runs, drives, and looks great. One runs but I am working out an issue with the linkage. The other, well... Let us just say it needs a few things.