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my 95 still has a strange miss i put a new remote pmd and cooler on it new lift pump that was bad put the scanner back on it showed a bad turbo solinoed so i put a new one on seems to boost better i can here my turbo now but it still bucks and jerks also i can move my wastegate by hand while the truck is running is this normal
Have you verified the lift pump is running and the system has pressure when the engine misses?
Do you have EGR?
No, the wastegate should not move easily while the engine is running. This is not your miss, though.
JohnC is on target with that wastegate...
Bucking and jerking sounds like classic fuel starvation....
Check lift pump operation with engine running.....replace fuel filter..clean out receptacle REAL good.
Stay on it..
Any codes??
Wing Nut OOA
03-21-2009, 20:09
i would say that you need to replace you Oil pressure sender.
the 95 i bought had a new lift pump but the guy had it hotwired because it wouldn't work.
the reason was the OPS.
it will still run with the lift pump not working but will buck sometimes under acceleration.
my truck also throws the turbo wastegate solenoid code.
i CAN move my waste gate rod back and forth while the truck is idling and it will stay in whichever position i put it in
(test was done while the solenoid was unplugged)
i'd say start with whether or not the lift pump is running.
after you start your truck reach down and hold the lift pump, you'll be able to feel it running.
if you need to hot wire it let me know and i'll post a picture on how to do so.
easily done through the fuse relay center.
that will atleast get you down the road untill you replace your OPS (if thats the problem)
dont drive on ONLY the injection pump.
the cheap ones are around 700$ and you'll ruin your pump.
went and got a new filter today im gona check lift pump please show how you hotwired your ops thanks
Wing Nut OOA
03-21-2009, 22:26
will post picture tomorrow morning.
i CAN move my waste gate rod back and forth while the truck is idling and it will stay in whichever position i put it in
(test was done while the solenoid was unplugged)
This is normal behavior if the solenoid is unplugged.
if you need to hot wire it let me know and i'll post a picture on how to do so.
Use extreme caution here. If you get into an accident or have an fire under the hood, the fuel will continue to pump even if the engine stalls... (Not legal in 50 states).
Wing Nut OOA
03-22-2009, 10:32
however if its your only means of transportation...its either walk to the parts store or where ever you need to go, or hotwire the pump.
i had to wait almost a week before i could change the OPS.
i couldn't go that long without a vehicle, had to get parts, had to get to work, etc...
OPS i think is 40-60 dollars
hotwiring the pump is free
a NEW injection pump is 1200 where i'm at.
i'll have that picture up in an hour or so.
Wing Nut OOA
03-22-2009, 12:14
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/9840/fuel1.jpg
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1510/fuel2.jpg
the truck will run and drive fine without the fuel pump relay in.
just run 12 volts to that spot (however you want) i ran a toggle switch inside so i didn't have to pop the hood every time i started and shut off the truck.
this will make the pump run 24/7/365
so its the least pain to run some sort of switch inside.
good luck
have you looked into the relay being the cause of your problem?
i think they're 10 dollars or so.
good deal i think i might find a acc. slot in my fusebox that works off my key switch that way i dont haft to worry about it (THANKS) for the help if you comeup whith any thing on the wastegate let me know
if you comeup whith any thing on the wastegate let me know
Check the vacuum to the solenoid. Should be over 20 inches and steady. Check to see that the wastegate actuator is connected to the correct (rear) port on the solenoid. The pump connects to the front port, which has a restictor in it. Take the line off the actuator and connect it to the vacuum gauge. Expect 14 or so inches of vacuum with the engine idling. Check the wires going to the solenoid. One should be 12 volts and the other is pulsed to ground by the PCM. You can read the pulse ratio with a dwell meter. Check the actuator for leakage.
If none of that fixes it, you've got me...
In an emergency you can power the lift pump through the lower left hand pin of the diagnostic connector. Wrap the wire around your leg so if you crash it'll get pulled out. ;)
If you have 26"HG at the vacuum pump, this is good.
You should have the same 26"HG at the solenoid inlet fitting
If not the plastic tube is bad.
The wategate actuator (at the turbo) should see 20+"HG with the truck idling.
This should also show a steady reading on the vacuum meter, NO WOBBLING AROUND.
If poor vacuum at wastegate actuator then either the solenoid is fouled or the feed tube has a leak.
Now if the tube at the wastegate has good vacuum and the rod still slops back and forth then the wastegate actuator is no good.
The only time the solenoid should dump vacuum is when the turbo reaches boost limits and then this will be a pulsed action controled by the ECM
Vacuum pumps do go away and if the thing won't suck 26"HG steady and quick its shot.
If the needle on the gauge wobbles all over then the pump is toast.
For the system to work right the first thing is to have a vacuum pump that SUCKS :D
Missy Robyn
The wategate actuator (at the turbo) should see 20+"HG with the truck idling.
I think you will find, at least with stock programming, it will be more like 14 or 15". The spec, IIRC, is 14" minimum. Until the RPM reaches 1800 and the fuel rate exceeds 20 mm3 the solenoid runs at a fixed pulse rate, something like 70% and the vacuum doesn't change. (Or something like that).
Wing Nut OOA
03-24-2009, 12:28
so which is it?
i'm assuming since i got 24-25 from the pump that robyn is correct.
when i hooked to the line for the actuator the thing bounced all over the place.
set it on the windsheild and romped the gas a couple times and that really drove it wild.
i'm thinking this confirms my code 78
a5150nut
03-24-2009, 20:10
IIRC, and I am sure to be corrected if I'm mistaken. The actuator pulses the vacuum to adjust the boost pressure.
Wing Nut OOA
03-26-2009, 09:50
here's a picture of my relay for the OPS.
if you're going to have to replace your oil sender you need to do this at the same time. the OPS is a pain in the butt to get to.
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/2055/opsrelay.jpg
there is a write up on how to do this in the FAQ section.
very thorough....
scratch that.
here's the link...
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268296&highlight=ops+relay
At idle the vacuum measured in place of the wastegate actuator should be minimum 15". I'm not guessing this time. It should be steady, too. If it's jumping around the solenoid is probably failing. There is a filter on one end of the solenoid that bears checking, but it's never been the problem that I know of.
Burning Oil
03-26-2009, 22:28
I keep a wire tied to the HB lines at all times just for jumping the LP.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/medium/lift_pump_jumpering_001.JPG
12 v to LP like this
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/medium/lift_pump_jumpering_002.JPG
Burning Oil
03-26-2009, 22:34
here's a picture of my relay for the OPS.
if you're going to have to replace your oil sender you need to do this at the same time. the OPS is a pain in the butt to get to.
Not anymore check out my web site for the new OPS ext hose!
www.pmdcable.com
Or, check out link in advertizers fourum
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=34164
Wing Nut OOA
03-27-2009, 08:32
thats nice but i'd still do the relay.
they're about 10 bucks and the OPS is 30 or better.
plus you wont get stranded on a trip.
Burning Oil
03-27-2009, 09:53
thats nice but i'd still do the relay.
they're about 10 bucks and the OPS is 30 or better.
plus you wont get stranded on a trip.
Yes I agree, you could still run the relay. My OPS EXT HOSE just makes it very easy to access your OPS and for less $ than you will spend running around town tring to make one up.
Leroy
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