View Full Version : 6.5 Injectors
Wing Nut OOA
02-27-2009, 09:49
is there a special way to rebuild the injectors other than just take them apart and clean them up?
it looked pretty cut and dried when i did it.
wasn't sure if there was a kit you're supposed to buy. mine were pretty nasty but i cleaned all the carbon and rust off of them with a knife and a brush, soaked and cleaned them in carb cleaner and re-assembled them with Tri-Flow (its all i had at the time.)
the look WAY better is all i can say.
and on a side note:
where can i go to find info on my Keyless entry for my 95?
both key fobs have brand new batteries but they'll only work from inside the truck IN the drivers seat. not from the passenger side
and they dont work from outside the truck at all!
thanks
-Joe
suburbanK-2500HD
02-27-2009, 22:16
You should put truck info in your signature so its easier when you asking questions about the truck..:)
rebuilding injectors takes a little more than what you did. To do the job right, you need new nozzles[ needle and seat in the bottom of the injector body] these nozzles operate under extremely close tolerances, and are easely damaged by inexperienced hands.
The body mating parts need to be lapped to create a positive seal as there is no gaskets used in them. further, you'll need a pop tester [ injector tester] to test the opening pressure,[ wich can be altered with different thicknesses of shims under the spring as to have approximatly the same pop pressure in all the injectors to within 50 psi of spec.]and a nozzle leakdown test, to establish a leakfree nozzle just under opening pressure.
used nozzles are not servicable unless you have the special tools for that job and are most likely beyond repair anyway.
my 2c
Wing Nut OOA
03-01-2009, 12:45
looks like i'm looking at buying new nozzles then.
the needles looked good on my nozzles but i have no way of seeing down inside.
i just trusted that what i was using to clean was softer than the metal the nozzles are made of (cobalt?)
i didnt scratch them with the razor blade but i didn't blatantly try.
looks like i'm looking at buying new nozzles then.
the needles looked good on my nozzles but i have no way of seeing down inside.
i just trusted that what i was using to clean was softer than the metal the nozzles are made of (cobalt?)
i didnt scratch them with the razor blade but i didn't blatantly try.you should use only a copper wire brush and a aircompressor for cleaning, and plenty of diesel fuel.
the needles can be pulled out of new nozzles,[ but should not be tatched with bare fingers beyond the thin shank]but often seize up in used ones when you try. A fine spray pattern is what you should be looking for. A course stream aint good.
Wing Nut OOA
03-02-2009, 10:06
going to have them tested today. may end up buying new nozzles
Disassemble, clean all internals in parts washer, chuck the nozzles and nozzle heat shield as they are junk.
Bead blast the body assy's staying away from the flat bottom surface of the upper body and being certain to get ALL of the junk out of the inside lower body.
You then need to lap the middle ring flat and the lower surface of the upper body. Wash everything thoroughly.
Reassemble with new nozzle and no heat shield. Check pop pressure and shim as necessary. Disassemble, add heat shield, reassemble, and recheck pop, chatter and spray. Optional now is to paint, gun blue or put whatever protective coating on the bodies.
I don't think I missed anything. You can probably manage to do a set in about 2 hrs once experienced.
Wing Nut OOA
03-02-2009, 16:33
as i dont have the equipment to check pressure/spray patterns or shim the springs to a certain pressure. i'm having someone do it for me.
32 bucks per injector leaves me -256$ ouch!
but they'll be good to go.
a5150nut
03-02-2009, 21:02
Wing Nut,
There was a thread a wile back about using a grease gun to pump up the injectors using fuel in place of grease. Add a gage in the line and you can check pop pressure.
BamaChief600
03-02-2009, 21:54
When I ran our tool room (Navy Seabee) I had all the stuff to bench test injectors and pumps all boxed up never used. The stuff was never on inventory either. If only I was a dishonest person..............Im sure someone got it for a steal at DRMO,Keesler AFB MS. They decommisioned my unit and everything got sent there.
suburbanK-2500HD
03-03-2009, 04:39
Hi
Its Easy To Fabricate One Self.
I Used A 2-ton Botle Jack.welded The Piston To The Outer Wall Of The Jack.
Drilled A Hole In The Piston, Connected A Manometer, And A Hydr.pipe With Cone, And Nut To A T Coupler At The Top.
Filling Diesel In The Cylinder Wall Of The Jack.
Works Like A Dream.
Cost Was About 100 Usd / 700 Norwegian Kr.
The Most Expensive Part Is The Manometer, I Used A High Quality One.
I Will Try To Post A Picture When I Get Home.....
suburbanK-2500HD
03-03-2009, 04:41
Wing Nut,
There was a thread a wile back about using a grease gun to pump up the injectors using fuel in place of grease. Add a gage in the line and you can check pop pressure.
DONT THINK IT WAS A GREASE GUN, I THINK IT WAS A CYLINDER FROM A HYDRAULIC PRY BAR SET..
Wing Nut OOA
03-03-2009, 10:10
well i appreciate all the help but i wont be needing it now. i dont anticipate ever having to take this thing apart again.
but you all know how vehicles are...
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