78,000 miles on 99 K2500:What fixes or precautionary measures must be done?

[David_Jennings]

My PMD on my 99 K2500 pooped out after 78K miles. Though I still had the warranty on my rig, I opted to try a remote PMD cooler with a new D-Tech PMD, and it cured the stalling problem. My truck runs great. In fact, it has been a great truck since I bought it in 2000--except for the worries I have developed by reading this website.

Based on the posts and articles I've seen, my heads will crack, my block webbing will splinter, and my crank will disintegrate. I also know that if I try to replace my glow plugs, I will break them off and disable my truck. (If I can get out #7 and 8 from under the turbo.) I know from my reading that all these problems can be fixed with a new engine, but I'd like to postpone that as long as possible. To ensure long life, or to prolong a questionable life span, what measures should I take now? For example, my truck starts just fine, but I am told that I should replace my glow plugs anyway. Are there procedures or repairs that will stave off destruction? I don't drive the truck hard, never tow, and use a fuel conditioner. My thoughts or inferences from reading are that the following might be in order. Please let me know what you think.
1. New Damper.
2. Gear Drive.
3. Glow plugs
4. Free-flow Exhaust

I have an aftermarket air filter, and now a remote cooler and PMD, but otherwise the truck is stock.

[DennisG01]

Being as yours is a '99, you probably won't have any problems with the plugs. Maybe start spraying them with PB Blaster, just to be sure. IIRC, it was the older stuff that used the swell-prone 9g's.

An exhaust system will never hurt. The downpipe is typically the worst part - sometimes the crossover - start spraying the 6 crossover bolts (3 on each side) with some Blaster, as well. A turbo back system can usually be had for under $400.

[DickWells]

My 95 Suburban has 190 K on it now. If I had your rig, I don't think I'd worry much about what (might) happen. Well, that's not fair for me to say! I'm the guy who spent 5-6 Grand on add-ons over the years that I was running the Burb. Only thing that I see that I never did change is the damper. If yours looks good, it more than likely,is.
I always said that the best adder that I put in, for the money, was the Phazer Gears, except, the last adder was the 4911 mechanical pump. Finally got dependable running without any skips or shut-downs! I still love the old Suburban. If I could pull our newer, bigger, trailer and the big ol ATV with the Suburban, I would. Do love the DM too, of course.
Dick Wells:)

[DaveBr]

I always thought a stud girdle kit would be money well spent on a 6.5. The only reason I haven't done it is I'm afraid that if I pull the pan and find cracks I'll be forced to buy an AMG 400. Question is.... is that really a bad thing? I thought of doing the phazer gear set but my rig has to many miles on it so I'll go with a new chain and that new fancified damper that's out. If my rig had a lot less miles on it like yours I would go with the gear drive. If you decide to upgrade your exhaust change your glow plugs while you have the turbo down pipe off. Saves a lot of hassle.

[Robyn]

I took the original Gp's from my 94 at 237K and after a little tug with a ratchet they unscrewed with fingers.

The secret is this. If you have a glow plug the threatens to snap off, you stop and remove the injector and stuff a piece of heavy cloth down in the precup under the plug and stuff it in to close off the port.
At this point you can get rough if need be with the plug and if it breaks off you simply drive the stub back into the cup and pick it out with a long nose gripper or a magnet.

Retrieve the piece of rag, install a fresh plug and reinstall the Injector and your off to the rodeo.

The main web cracks are more scarry sounding than they are in reality.
A very fine repair can be made with Lock and stitch inserts at the time of an overhaul.

Many many 6.2/6.5 engines run many many K miles with at least a couple cracks in the basement.
The cranks are not snapping like dry sticks either.
All these issues have been recorded on these engines but overall I would buy a new truck in a heartbeat that had a 6.5 in it.

Just certain things that ya just take in stride.:D

Runum till they melt. :rolleyes:

Best

Robyn

[Big Green]

I've been running a 6.5 with web cracks for some time. I did add the stud gridle when I discovered them but since the engine really had no issues and I didn't have the big bucks for a new block at the time I really had no other choice.

If I would have known about some of the dandy 'fix kits' I would have gone that route.

It's right at 200k and about 10k-15k since I discovered the cracks.

I'll also 2nd the best money spent was on the Phazer Gears. Dealer spend just over 60 days under warranty chasing a miss at 950rpm. Installed the phaser and it runs better now than when it was brand new.

Big Green

[David_Jennings]

If you know, is it possible to install the stud girdle without removing the engine? I assume I can put in the gears without pulling it. Thanks.