Oil Change Yet?

[jimar10]

2008 - 3500 HD Duramax
The oil life indicator sez I've got 50% oil life left. But I've got about 5000 miles on the truck.
Seems like it won't say change the oil 'till 10,000.
I'm thinking I should make this first oil change at 5k and not trust the stupid indicator thingy.
Whadya think?

[Mark Rinker]

Great idea. Personally, I'd start a regimine of using Mobil Delvac (silver jug) synthetic - resetting and then following your oil change indicator from here on out...

Another good idea would be to get the rear end lube changed now, or very soon - as well. Its a good idea to change the factory fluid in less miles than the book calls for, because the first lube gets the shavings as the new gears break in.

Its cheap insurance for a longer life, higher mile rear end. Synthetic gear oil is called for here as well. As always, review your GM Owner's Manual and make your choices based on that data first, and opinions of others (including me) second... :)


Good luck!

[jimar10]

It's good to know I'm not alone in my thinking. I was also thinking about the rear end too. I had a 2001 that required the "grape flavored" rear end oil. Does the 2008 need that too?

It's 4 wheel drive. Do ya think the transfer case, differential, etc., might need an oil change too? Grape juice in there too?

[Mark Rinker]

I haven't read my owner's manuals recently, so don't want to steer you wrong. Refer to that first.

My thought is that diff and tcase can wait. Depends on how much you use them.

[DmaxMaverick]

I recommend early/often engine oil changes on new vehicles. It should be changed at 500, 2,000, and 5,000 miles, then according to your or the mfg's scheduled maintenance recommendation. A 10K mile interval on a new vehicle with modern lubrication products is certainly prudent. I also recommend the use of synthetic lubricants, however, that discussion falls both directions, depending on who you talk to. Your choice.

The rear end on HD vehicles should also be changed early/often. In most cases, they are unseen/unheard for 50K miles at a time, and sometimes never get any attention for the life of the vehicle. Taking care of them early is a very good practice. Use the GM high-dollar stuff if you so desire, but any good name brand GL-5 75-90 synthetic lube will work fine. I use Amsoil, but Mobil-1, Redline, Royal Purple, Penzoil (full synthetic), Castrol (full synthetic), etc. are fine. If you tow very heavy and/or often, and/or during very hot times, you can use 75-140 lube of the same quality. Using the heavier lube can and will effect economy when not during these conditions. The capacity of the rear end is about 3-3/4 qts (fill to about 1/2 to 3/4" below the fill hole). The front diff should use the same lube as the rear (75-90), but GM recommends conventional lube except for extreme cold climates. About 2 qts for the front (fill up to the fill hole level). If you are using 75-90 full synthetic in the rear, no reason to not use the same stuff in the front. ONLY the front and rear diffs use this type of lube, so using the same lube makes sense, and you never have to wonder if you put in the right stuff, if you only have one to choose from. Also, both the front and rear diffs have drain plugs, so no covers need to be removed.

The Allison transmission and transfer case use the same fluid (Dexron VI, IIRC). Again, I recommend synthetic for both. The transfer case fill is about 2 qts (fill up to the fill hole). The transmission drain/fill is just short of 8 qts, and a full flush will use 18-20 qts. It has a drain plug in the pan, so no cover to remove. Allison recommends the internal filter NOT be changed, except at overhaul. The external spin-on filter should be changed at regular intervals, depending on how you use the truck. 25K-50K miles under normal use with infrequent towing with little to no really hot ATF episodes. More often for heavy/hot towing, or if you so desire. The filters are inexpensive (if you don't buy them from GM) and easy to change. Many folks just change the filter during regular engine oil service, or every other service. Don't forget to transfer the magnet from the old filter to the new. It's a large flat-washer shape, located on top of the filter (or may, at times, remain stuck on the filter nipple). Just clean it and reinstall with the new filter.

[Ric]

I did my first oil change in my 08 at about 4000miles at my local chevy dealer, yet the indicator said I had plenty of oil life left.

I've got about a thousand miles on that oil change now. I checked the oil this weekend and the oil was quite black.

THis is my first diesel. 08 2500hd 4x4 duramax with allison.

SHould the oil be this black within 1000 miles after an oil change?

[Runaway_Dmax]

I did 3500 mile intervals the first 10,000 miles using dino oil. Then switched to Mobil 1 and will be on a 10K oil change interval from here in out.

[rustyk]

SHould the oil be this black within 1000 miles after an oil change?

With a diesel, a drive around the block will make it black. :)

[DickWells]

My 04 DM never gets to less than 5000 miles with more than a light honny color to it, IF I'm the one who changes the oil. I let it drain a lot longer than Wal Mart does. And, I made a little bent syphon tube to reach over that stupid hump in the pan and drain that ~ pint of old oil up front, too.
A Baldwin filter will go a long way toward keeping your oil clean longer, as well. Dr. Lee told us about Baldwins, back a few years, and boy was he right!:)
Dick Wells

[Runaway_Dmax]

I did my first oil change in my 08 at about 4000miles at my local chevy dealer, yet the indicator said I had plenty of oil life left.

I've got about a thousand miles on that oil change now. I checked the oil this weekend and the oil was quite black.

THis is my first diesel. 08 2500hd 4x4 duramax with allison.

SHould the oil be this black within 1000 miles after an oil change?

Yes the LMM engine oil really black with just a short number of miles on it. Nature of the beast thanks to the EPA mandated stuff. Still don't think it was as black as my 6.2L Diesel was thought.

[richp]

Runaway Dmax,

I'd like to get some info from you on towing your fiver with an LMM. Could you email me at rich.p (at) att.net.

Thanks.

[NutNbutGMC]

I recommend early/often engine oil changes on new vehicles. It should be changed at 500, 2,000, and 5,000 miles, then according to your or the mfg's scheduled maintenance recommendation. A 10K mile interval on a new vehicle with modern lubrication products is certainly prudent. I also recommend the use of synthetic lubricants, however, that discussion falls both directions, depending on who you talk to. Your choice.

The rear end on HD vehicles should also be changed early/often. In most cases, they are unseen/unheard for 50K miles at a time, and sometimes never get any attention for the life of the vehicle. Taking care of them early is a very good practice. Use the GM high-dollar stuff if you so desire, but any good name brand GL-5 75-90 synthetic lube will work fine. I use Amsoil, but Mobil-1, Redline, Royal Purple, Penzoil (full synthetic), Castrol (full synthetic), etc. are fine. If you tow very heavy and/or often, and/or during very hot times, you can use 75-140 lube of the same quality. Using the heavier lube can and will effect economy when not during these conditions. The capacity of the rear end is about 3-3/4 qts (fill to about 1/2 to 3/4" below the fill hole). The front diff should use the same lube as the rear (75-90), but GM recommends conventional lube except for extreme cold climates. About 2 qts for the front (fill up to the fill hole level). If you are using 75-90 full synthetic in the rear, no reason to not use the same stuff in the front. ONLY the front and rear diffs use this type of lube, so using the same lube makes sense, and you never have to wonder if you put in the right stuff, if you only have one to choose from. Also, both the front and rear diffs have drain plugs, so no covers need to be removed.

The Allison transmission and transfer case use the same fluid (Dexron VI, IIRC). Again, I recommend synthetic for both. The transfer case fill is about 2 qts (fill up to the fill hole). The transmission drain/fill is just short of 8 qts, and a full flush will use 18-20 qts. It has a drain plug in the pan, so no cover to remove. Allison recommends the internal filter NOT be changed, except at overhaul. The external spin-on filter should be changed at regular intervals, depending on how you use the truck. 25K-50K miles under normal use with infrequent towing with little to no really hot ATF episodes. More often for heavy/hot towing, or if you so desire. The filters are inexpensive (if you don't buy them from GM) and easy to change. Many folks just change the filter during regular engine oil service, or every other service. Don't forget to transfer the magnet from the old filter to the new. It's a large flat-washer shape, located on top of the filter (or may, at times, remain stuck on the filter nipple). Just clean it and reinstall with the new filter.
Thank you.

[Ric]

I did my first oil change in my 08 at about 4000miles at my local chevy dealer, yet the indicator said I had plenty of oil life left.

I've got about a thousand miles on that oil change now. I checked the oil this weekend and the oil was quite black.

THis is my first diesel. 08 2500hd 4x4 duramax with allison.

SHould the oil be this black within 1000 miles after an oil change?

Yes the LMM engine oil really black with just a short number of miles on it. Nature of the beast thanks to the EPA mandated stuff. Still don't think it was as black as my 6.2L Diesel was thought.
Thanks fellas.
Get this... shortly after I checked the oil and saw it was black, I started noticing some drip spots on my driveway. :eek: Wait! I buy chivvys so that I dont' have to look at oil spots on the driveway!
anyway, at 8k or so, I saw the spots on my drive and crawled under the beast to find oil all around the bottom of the pan and the skid plate... I checked the drain plug and it was DAMN tight and I looked all around where the pan meets the block and found no leaks...

I -assume- the oil leak is directly related to the oil change work, but I cannot be sure...

I dropped it at the dealer this afternoon..

[GordonMarks]

Hummm....My Sub stays much cleaner than the 6.5L did. Analysis(which I did the 1st 3 times)said all was OK after I got the PS injectors changed. I change every 3K right now since I don't put that many miles on it. So far, I'm very happy.
Anyone know how to turn off the "change oil" message on an 01? All of that wiring is from the 01. I tried the gas version of patting the gas 3 times before starting.

[NutNbutGMC]

Hummm....My Sub stays much cleaner than the 6.5L did. Analysis(which I did the 1st 3 times)said all was OK after I got the PS injectors changed. I change every 3K right now since I don't put that many miles on it. So far, I'm very happy.
Anyone know how to turn off the "change oil" message on an 01? All of that wiring is from the 01. I tried the gas version of patting the gas 3 times before starting.
May I suggest patting steady and deliberate? Fast pats on the pedal confuse the ECM.
$0.02

[GordonMarks]

Well, I tried the slow, deliberate method but no results. I should add that one of my techs has an 02 gas C1500 & is familiar w/the way that his responds. He tried it w/the same result.
This is something new to the conversion-after about 9K miles. Since I used the 99 pedal as Jim did in "the little red truck" that may have some significence. Otherwise, I'll just blame it on something that the ECM sees or thinks it sees that I don't know about.
The BCM does a lot of complaining since it doesn't see everything that it thinks that it should(duh....it's a 99, not AN 01).
wE'VE EVEN TRIED RESETTING THE OIL LIFE W/THE SCANNER.
oH WELL, IT MAY QUIT ON IT'S OWN OR we'll find it someday.
Just some of the small nuances of a conversion involving OBDII.
Overall, It's GREAT!!

Thanks for all the help!

[Heartbeat Hauler]

[quote=Runaway_Dmax;249826]
Thanks fellas.
Get this... shortly after I checked the oil and saw it was black, I started noticing some drip spots on my driveway. :eek: Wait! I buy chivvys so that I dont' have to look at oil spots on the driveway!
anyway, at 8k or so, I saw the spots on my drive and crawled under the beast to find oil all around the bottom of the pan and the skid plate... I checked the drain plug and it was DAMN tight and I looked all around where the pan meets the block and found no leaks...

I -assume- the oil leak is directly related to the oil change work, but I cannot be sure...

I dropped it at the dealer this afternoon..

I found out the hard way that if you don't use a little piece of plastic to direct the oil-flow while draining the oil, then the skid plate gets a great big drink of oil, which will continue to drip for a week! I use a 1-gallon plastic jug and cut a half-round piece to direct the oil away from the skid plate. Hope it's nothing more than this.
JP

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Hummm....My Sub stays much cleaner than the 6.5L did. Analysis(which I did the 1st 3 times)said all was OK after I got the PS injectors changed. I change every 3K right now since I don't put that many miles on it. So far, I'm very happy.
Anyone know how to turn off the "change oil" message on an 01? All of that wiring is from the 01. I tried the gas version of patting the gas 3 times before starting.

I have an '01 Dually and I have to do the three presses of the accelerator pedal method. You must do the 3 presses under 5 seconds and they must go completely to the floor (quicker is better). If you have aftermarket floor mats (molded plastic), make sure they are not preventing the pedal from going to the floor. Oh, and of course make sure the key is in the on position.

JP

[GordonMarks]

Thanks JP:
I'll try that & report back......With the key on. Right now I'm mo interested in gettin the race car krunk & the trailer cleaned up-the 1st NMCA event is the end of March!!
Now, pay attn. guys: JP knows how ta talk to OLD guys! Ya hafta
"splain" things!!
Thanks again!!

[Ric]

well the deal of the oil leak was that the genius who changed my oil on the evening shift at the chivvy dealer KILLED the drain plug gasket.. I didn't know it til sometime after the oil change:mad: and a helluva mess...

dealer fixed it of course, and said that the black oil is common and that they don't have a duramax tech on the night crew:rolleyes: If I'd known a dmax tech was necessary for an oil change AND one is not on staff in the evenings.... well... anyway

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Thanks JP:
...Now, pay attn. guys: JP knows how ta talk to OLD guys! Ya hafta
"splain" things!!
Thanks again!!
Well, there's a reason I know how to speak Old-Guy.....;)
JP

[Heartbeat Hauler]

well the deal of the oil leak was that the genius who changed my oil on the evening shift at the chivvy dealer KILLED the drain plug gasket.. I didn't know it til sometime after the oil change:mad: and a helluva mess...

dealer fixed it of course, and said that the black oil is common and that they don't have a duramax tech on the night crew:rolleyes: If I'd known a dmax tech was necessary for an oil change AND one is not on staff in the evenings.... well... anyway

Bummer! Dead gasket sucks, glad you got it figured out, that could've been a really expensive mistake!

JP