How do I get to these turbo bolts off & drain tube bolts&hose?

[97Suburban]

Help,

Changing my first set of injectors, yuk on passenger side.
The chilton book for $25 is almost worthless...

I change the drivers side in 3 hours flat :):):)

Then hit passengerside and got back 3 changed in 8 hours, what a stinking pain, GM engineers have no clue on give us just a little more room, stupid pain... my lower back is sore this am. :mad::mad::mad:

**--> I have on left and the lousy turbo drain tube is in the way. I sprayed those 2 cooked rusty bolts last eve with PBBlaster I hope they come off today??? :confused:

New PArts: I ordered from dealer 2 new drain tube bolts and gasket and rubber hose, although I've neve seen that hose??

So, how the HECK do I get to the 4 turbo bolts, especially that back inside one, wow???

-> Biggest thing for today is, hopefully I can just take off turbo drain tube 2 bolts and move it out some to get my socket in there and forget about removing turbo????

-> That rubber hose, can I get to it easily to remove it if I have too???

Thanks so much again!!!

[DennisG01]

Did you take out the inner fender? Some people do it without doing that, but it comes out pretty easy. It will give you more room.

[simon]

the injector at the turbo can be done without removing the turbo[is a PITA]. getting the turbo off is sometimes somewhat difficult,soak the studs and nuts overnight with penetrating fluid. The pass side nuts can be easier reached trough the wheel well with a socket[use hex socket for this]. the inside nuts can be done with a combi box end wrench with a prybar in the open end as a lever to break it loose. the turbo drain tube bolts usually come of fairly easy. Experience helps a lot though.

the rubber hose you mention is located at the bottom of the drain tube where it connects to the block with 2 hose clamps. there is a gasket between the turbo and the drain tube[ dont forget it]. the drain tube cannot be removed with the turbo in place.

manuals never tell you the difficult parts or what you really need to know.

[97Suburban]

Oh now, bad news, are you serious, I can't remove the drain tube with turbo in place???

Can I take out the 2 drain tube bolts so that I can get the wiggle room to take out that last injector at the front passenger side of the motor. That drain tube is keeping me from getting the socket on and pulling out that last injector, urgggg :confused:

I have 7 injectors replaced with turbo still in place, it is just that last one that is not possible with drain tube needing to scoot out about an inch, will the rubber hose at bottom allow me to flex it out to get on the injector, or is it too stiff?

[rameye]

many of this have been there and done it...

Do yourself a favor....put some nice anti sieze and all of your stuff so next time its a piece of cake. I can have my turbo off in under an hour...no frozen bolts to contend with.

I refuse to do the "dark side" without taking off the turbo. I pop off the wheel, and take off the inner flexible shield...You can be in and out in 1/2 a day..injectors and glows, all buttoned up...ready to go.

Hint..bleed the dark side injectors before buttoning up.

I use a box wrench to attack the turbo bolts...they are the bummer. I like to heat them with a torch and then rub some nice candle wax on them. Capillary action wicks the wax into the thread area.

Go to auto zone, buy the right size wrench and have at it with a torch and saw to customize it for the application.....

good luck

[simon]

Oh now, bad news, are you serious, I can't remove the drain tube with turbo in place???

Can I take out the 2 drain tube bolts so that I can get the wiggle room to take out that last injector at the front passenger side of the motor. That drain tube is keeping me from getting the socket on and pulling out that last injector, urgggg :confused:

I have 7 injectors replaced with turbo still in place, it is just that last one that is not possible with drain tube needing to scoot out about an inch, will the rubber hose at bottom allow me to flex it out to get on the injector, or is it too stiff?you will get some room if the tube is loose from the turbo, but you wont get 1 inch wiggle. a guy could modefy a 30 mm box end wrench to get to that injector, but that requires a torch and welder. if you have a torch then you can heat the turbo nuts instead. job is easier without the turbo bugging you.

[97Suburban]

Thanks everyone!!!! Got that last injector out by taking out the 2 drain tube bolts and it moved away enough to finish that last injector!!!

now, before i start it, should my manual says nothing about bleeding off??? yiks, do I crack the drivers side and turn key on maybe or crank &/or try to start it with them cracked????

[Kenneth]

Okay, I have never taken the inner fender off for anything. I take my turbo off in about 45 minutes. I use a 15mm napa end wrench that I ground the box side down to a thin wall. I then lean over the engine (with my knees on the radiator/support area) and remove the two inside bolts. On the outside bolts, I use a socket. I guess I have been lucky with not having any rusted or stuck bolts. That probably comes from all my oil leaks though.

Anyway, I guess I am suggesting to just pull the turbo off, it's really not that hard. And secondly, obtain a cheap 15mm combination wrench and grind the box down to a thinner wall that will allow proper grip on the nuts. I guess that is my .02. I glad you finally got it though.

As far as bleeding. I started my truck without bleeding, between replacement of the driver's side and pass side injectors. I think you will be fine, because I don't recall my truck sputtering much at all. In a matter of seconds the air will be worked out of the lines/injectors and fresh fuel will be available in the cylinder (as long as there are no leaks in the fuel system).

I think just fire the thing up, if it doesn't start in a resonable time (given the situation), crack the driver's side injectors one by one and bleed them. Then start the truck. You should be fine just starting the truck.