40 HP Marine Injectors - Replacment Tech Helps Please?

[97Suburban]

Hello, I am about to embark on changing my first set of injectors :confused:

1. So, what tips can you educate me with?
Do I have to worry about checking fuel pressure across injectors somehow when done?? (New lift pump and injection pump-see below)

2. Also, why the Extreme price differences, one place $240 (herzog pensacola Diesel Care & Perf) vs $450 or so (SSDiesel or Heath Diesel-Not herzog, but others like Bosch, Stanadyne, Delphi )??? Huge price difference???

I already obtained a standard 30mm Deep socket my buddy already changed his with last month and didn't break any nipples with.

Thank You!


----------------------------------------------------------------------
My Specs
* 1997 GMC Suburban 2500 5.6 TD 155k miles
* 3rd injection pump around 100k miles
* New HeathDiesel.com, Heavy-duty lift pump at 124K miles.
* Installed Heath Diesel's Remote mount PMD & Turbo master Arm and their ECM/computer (woke this sleeping beauty up, WOW)
* Stock exhaust with cat punched out
* AFE airfilter
* AMSoil 15w40 used year round
* New block heater
* Morosso Oil Pan stick on heater from Jegs last year (baby gets hot!!)
* 265 all terrain tires, but thinking about Blizzak's if they are the best snow tire???
----------------------------------------------------------------------

[JohnC]

... So, what tips can you educate me with?

1) Don't allow any grit to get into the fuel system while you have it apart.
2) Refer to rule 1.

Simply changing injectors, no matter what injector you install, will not net you a 40 hp increase. The injectors do not determine how much fuel is injected. Buy from a vendor who gives you the straight story.

[More Power]

Have a look at this thread (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=26767) for more discussion about "40 Horse" 6.5 injectors..... ;)

Jim

[97Suburban]

Do I have to remove the Turbo to replace the injectors on passenger side???

My buddy believes we can get in there but removing the Airbox, intake cap and hoses from turbo to intake and leave turbo itself alone...?

[Robyn]

As was mentioned in the "referenced thread" these so called 40HP injectors in reality only add 40 HP to the sellers pocket book $$$$$$$$$

A good set of factory injectors or a set of Quality rebuilt units with the pop pressure set to factory specs.
I always ask the rebuilder I use to be sure the injectors are set to the top of the spec and that they are all "equal"
Having all the injectors very close to the exact same pop pressure assures a more even cylinder to cylinder timing and a smoother running engine.
This practice in my opinion can also assure less stress on the crankshaft and other internal engine components including the block.

So Forget the fancy tweeky injectors and replace with a good factory spec'd set.
The vendors who advertise here are dependable and will do you right.

Now
To get started

Using a blow nozzle and high pressure air (90psi) blow off the area along the side of the engine all around the injectors to remove any sand, dirt and other crud.

Undo the high pressure line clamps at the valve cover brackets.

**** NOTE**** dont get vicious and play Captain mangle with the high pressure lines.

You can simple move them over slightly to allow removal of the injectors.

The small return (rubber) lines can be trashed as you will need to replace them with a new set (Depaco makes good ones) and the complete kit is about $25.

The depaco kits use lines that dont need the clamps on each line.
You will need to carefully apply the little clamps to the end injectors (7 and 8 for the end caps )
The kits come with new copper seals that go between the head and the injector.

I like to go through and loosen all the injectors slightly after just cracking the HP lines and then blow things off again to rid the area of any crap that was around the injector and was dislodged while loosening.

The Turbo is best removed to access the RH injectors. The heat shield will need to come off too..

While ypu are at it this would be a great time to swap in a fresh set of glow plugs.

To access the RH glow plugs easily, remove the Right front wheel and the rubber weather flap on the inner fender.

WITH THE RIG SAFELY BLOCKED you can happily sit on a bucket and work on the glow plugs. The rear most plug will require you to come up from under the rig and reach around the manifold down pipe.

There is a special tool to remove the 2 inner glow plug wires from within the heat shield tube. Forget finding one and simply remove the two nuts holding the tube and then slide it bcak to gain access to the connector plug. Replace in the reverse order. ;)

Removal of the turbo is fairly easy. 4 nuts that hold the turbo to the manifold, two bolts under the turbo where the drain connects and the oil feed line up top. There will also be the top stabilizer rod from the intake to the turbo.

If your drain tube connection at the block area is leaking some, now would be a great time to replace the little short hose.

A fresh gasket on the drain tube is in order too with a little light application of high temp silicone to each side of the gasket to keep it in place and assure a good leak free seal.

Once you get the air plumbing off the engine along with the turbo you will have a good view of things.

Again be gentle with the HP lines and don't get rough.

Once your new squirts are in and things are buttoned up your set and ready for a start.

The first start will see some rough running while the air is expelled from the new injectors.

The key word is KEEP IT CLEAN . Dont remove the pladtic caps from the inlet to the injector until they are in the head and you are ready to install the HP lines.

Just a small amount of crap can render a new injector useless.

A fesh fuel filter is a good thing now too.

I would do the filter first and get the thing running smooth and then do the injectors, so you dont have more than one area of possible air to cause a hard restart after the work.

The 6.5 will not benefit from any trick goodies as far as injectors go.
Any performance gains are the result of a reprogramed chip/ECM, mods to the exhaust system and the turbo waste gate controls

Keep us posted

Robyn

[97Suburban]

Wow, Thanks a million for the help, tips and procedure, this is my first shot at this piece of work :)

Couple last follow up question as a newbee at this task:
* The injector rebuild shop stated these are OEM/Bosch nozzles and all set the same. Should I assume that is good enough, or am I supposed to specifically ask that a set of 8 be calibrated to be exactly identical in pop pressure and spray pattern and whatever else I should ask for ?

* Sounds like I can skip finding the special tool to remove the 2 inner glow plug wires, but you said just remove the 2 bolts? Never been in there before so I assume I will see some sort of heat shield that must keep some heat off 2 glow plugs that has 2 bolts to remove heat shield, then remove wires and then remove glow plugs ?

* So my buddy thought removing the turbo was a big horrible job and skip that step and try to get in there??? But sounds like you say remove intake top from turbo to top of engine, then remove turbo? So are the 4 bolts hard to find and get to in order to pop off the turbo, I assume thru fender well with socket and air impact on soft & PB Blaster to loosen it up carefully as I assume a nice heat cooked dry bolts? Do they break often? He is worried about a few hours turning into a bees nest...

* Should I reassemble with typical silver anti seeze gue?

* Do I go to the dealer or a parts store like NAPA to get the following:
1. turbo gasket
2. drain tube gasket
3. Should I replace the drain tube you mentioned, is this metal or rubber?


* I assume any Orange high temp silicon? (I think I still have some from another project a while ago)

* The dirt scares me, so I typically blow off, brush, clean and blow off area again and typically triple ensure not dirt around spark plugs but also spraying WD40 to keep dust and falling dirt at bay, then air blow again, then I remove plugs, and in this case injectors...:eek:

Once again, thanks so much for helping a neebee out:D:D

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

I don't think there is a turbo gasket. If you mean between the turbo and manifold, I have never seen or used one.
For the oil feed, always just used a really good sealer/gasket maker. Never had a problem.
The oil feed tube where it come into the turbo is metal. Lower down there is a rubber hose.
There should be 4 nuts that come through the exhaust flange. Hit them with some spray and they should come off nicely. A knuckle on an extension makes life a lot nicer.
Big thumbs up on taking off the inner fender. It makes life a lot nicer and I think makes the job go faster.
Use never seize when you put it back on. Won't hurt and will help if you have to take it apart down the road.

Overall, when taking off the turbo, the hardest to get at will probably be the two oil feed bolts.