Camaro 6.5L TD project

[Rafedial1]

Well, i've spent alot of time on thedieselpage, the classroom, the shop, the internet and behind the welder's helmet to get where I am now.

I started this project with just some quick notes I had on a piece of paper 3 years ago. Everyone told me I was crazy so i forgot about it. I put off even considering the idea until I discovered the 6.2L and 6.5L engine family. I had just sold my clean 1999 Camaro Z28 to a kid who later totaled it. I was looking to start a new project.

I was sorting through some books and worksheets from auto tech school and found the chicken scratch I had laid out for a diesel powered Camaro. That was it, I knew what had to be done.




picked this up for a bargain...

[More Power]

Sounds like an interesting project! Is there enough room in to fit the 6.2/6.5?

As I recall from watching a "Horsepower TV" episode on Spike some time ago that the Camaro engines are R&R'ed by dropping it out the bottom.

Jim

[trbankii]

Sounds interesting! I'll be watching this to see how you progress with it. I've seen a couple Vettes with GM diesels in them.

[Rafedial1]

This is after I tore her down a bit. The engine is the 3.4L V6 + 4L60E auto trans with 119,000 miles. The car is originally from Arkansas, very clean underneath, lightly optioned, drum rear brakes, hardtop (for strength). Wire harness is all labeled to sell the engine and trans.

[93GMCSierra]

nice project, and good luck with it, though that generation camaro is not to my liking.

[Rafedial1]

Sounds like an interesting project! Is there enough room in to fit the 6.2/6.5?

As I recall from watching a "Horsepower TV" episode on Spike some time ago that the Camaro engines are R&R'ed by dropping it out the bottom.

Jim

Thanks Jim, the 6.5L will fit with some pretty extensive modifications.

Engine and trans came out pretty easily. Leave the wheels on and it rolls around nicely.



Cody

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Looks like it will be an interesting build. I noticed in the last picture the front of another red car. Any pics of that?
We are building a strip Camaro, an 86 RS. Have a 350 bored .060 over and are thinking of twin turbocharging it, but this looks more interesting!
What kind of tranny are you looking to run behind it?

[trbankii]

Looking at those pictures and I was just about to ask if the Camaro was front wheel drive these days... :D

[NutNbutGMC]

I like the metal building off down in the field.

[Rafedial1]

The car is completely stripped and ready for metal work. Have the dimensions for the 6.5L to build motor mounts and correctly align the engine. Added dynamat sound deadener for vibrations, road noise.



Cody

[Rafedial1]

Looks like it will be an interesting build. I noticed in the last picture the front of another red car. Any pics of that?
We are building a strip Camaro, an 86 RS. Have a 350 bored .060 over and are thinking of twin turbocharging it, but this looks more interesting!
What kind of tranny are you looking to run behind it?

Yeah, the red car next to the engine/trans is a 50th Ann. Z06, my father's car.

I am going to use the 4L80E since the donor vehicle will most likely come with one.

[Rafedial1]

Found a 1994 Chevrolet C2500 2WD with the 6.5L TD and 4L80E trans. The truck has 239,000 miles on her. Originally a Texas truck. VIN checked out ok and I received a whole stack of repair receipts. The best receipt being that is had a GM Goodwrench Crate engine installed in late 90's. The means it is the 506 block with the 756 cylinder heads. I've been told it has had some type of revision to make it stronger??? Then in 2002 the longblock was rebuilt and also the injection pump 5068 was rebuilt by a reputable Diesel machine shop in Indiana. Truck also had the remote PMD and upgraded cooling system. The pics are after it was tore down and the engine/trans isolated. So the rebuilt engine has just under 60,000 miles on it. According to the previous owner and the receipts I received with it, the truck had MANY problems. However it was driven home from mid-land Indiana to Northern Ohio with no issues.

Checked out the mains and rods for wear/clearance, then re-torqued. No signs of sludge, metal flakes, or cracks in the main webbing or otherwise. :)

Due to the all the problems with the DS4 and the simplicity of the DB2 I will be going with mechanical injection.

Engine will be solid mounted to the K-member.

Truck smoked white for second on startup, then cleared. Is this a bad injector symptom? Fuel leaking down into cylinders?

Does anyone know the weight of a dressed 6.5L TD with accessories, minus the turbocharger?

[More Power]

Truck smoked white for second on startup, then cleared. Is this a bad injector symptom? Fuel leaking down into cylinders?

Does anyone know the weight of a dressed 6.5L TD with accessories, minus the turbocharger?

A little white smoke at a cold start is normal this time of year. It should quickly disappear.

A dressed 6.5L TD weighs 835-lbs.

Jim

[6.5NOVA]

Hello Rafedial1,

You have a very nice project!! I have a `77 chevy nova with a 6.5 turbo diesel. When you tune that 6.5 right you have lots of power, the best 0 to 60 time and the best mpg!!

here are some video`s from my nova..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXi3AVxv7vc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fFj6r1g-8E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLtEXkLO-XE

[Rafedial1]

Wow, these conversions are more popular than i thought!

That 6.5L Nova is interesting! thanks for the videos. it has motivated me to work even harder on the project.

One day I hope to spread the conversion bug to anyone I can, but it looks like it has already spread across the world. The Netherlands, right? the locals must go crazy over that 6.5L Nova. Looks great! :cool:

Couple questions for my project.

Can the CDR valve be vented to atmosphere?
I am going to wire manual momentary glow plug switch. I am using a snow plow solenoid (high current) with a push button switch. Sound right?



Here are some pictures of the motor mount mockup/fab progress. Unfortunately the engine sits too low, to forward, to close to many parts of the car, the steering rack wont work, etc. Looks like i have to fabricate a second set. But it fits!!!! :D

Ohh, I am attempting to build the complete car by myself. I love a challenge but I am beginning to understand just how difficult this project will be. I have had experience with gassers, mostly LSX based vehicles, some carb'ed applications, and computer tuning (HpTuners) gassers and diesels. I know the 4th gen Camaro/Firebirds like the back of my hand; the weaknesses and strengths. I just want the durability/torque/mileage of a diesel combined with the agility/handling of a Camaro.

The Camaro will be used in road racing, drag racing, but be able to DD just as well. Is that too far-fetched to accomplish?

[convert2diesel]

If you figure out how to shoe horn a turbo into that space, please let me know. Been the major roadblock I have had since starting with the Buick. Now that I am starting on the Cadillac, a turbo is now manditory as it will be used to haul the new RV.

Bill

[DmaxMaverick]

There's no rule that says it has to go under the hood. Stick it in the glove box, if you have to.

[Rafedial1]

convert2diesel, a turbo is a nice addition for towing.

I agree with Dmaxmaverick. A turbo can be placed anywhere. A company called Squires Turbo Systems builds some wild setups. Even a twin kit for the Y-body's. They locate them in the rear of the vehicle for less under hood heat and especially space. Turbo lag and lack of dependability are the downsides to remote mount turbochargers. I will be doing some version of this...

Progress:
Motor mounts were redesigned and I am happy with the placement so far. I am going to throw the 80E up there and see where I am at for driveline angle(s) and clearances. Front suspension is getting an overhaul with joints, ends, and poly bushings. Rear axle is a whole different story. A couple companies sell bolt in 9 inchers and 12 bolts but they are $$$$. Believe it or not this is a budget build. I wish I had a sponsor.

Car will get a fuel cell and some batteries relocated.

[convert2diesel]

There's no rule that says it has to go under the hood. Stick it in the glove box, if you have to.

Wouldn't need the heater then, just place the hot side in the core box and route some of the puffer side through the vents :D.



I agree with Dmaxmaverick. A turbo can be placed anywhere. A company called Squires Turbo Systems builds some wild setups. Even a twin kit for the Y-body's. They locate them in the rear of the vehicle for less under hood heat and especially space. Turbo lag and lack of dependability are the downsides to remote mount turbochargers. I will be doing some version of this...



Originally looked at these systems four years ago, even had an exhaust guy design the pipes, but as this is my daily driver, plus the environment I live in, we estimated the life expectency to be around a month and a half. Salt, and road crap coupled with periodic shock cooling of the hot side (salt plus ice=water) would make short work of any turbo. Not only that, we couldn't find a logical location for the intake side that wasn't exposed to the same things.

Have a little more room under the hood on the Caddy and am looking at locating the turbo in the same location as the H1 and van (center mount) but will fab up my own mounts. The vans especially are prone to heat problems at the rear of the engine so will try to alieviate some of the problems using ceramics and heat shielding. The stock side mount passenger side manifold hits the upper control arm dead on. Would have to cut out the front runner all together to get it to fit.

I am still entertaining the idea of using a blower but have yet to find one with enough volume that is low enough to fit under the hood. Puttting a power bulge on a Caddy just doesn't seem right. Can fab up a custom water cross over/thermost housing but still need enough air to give me about 375 to 400 ft/lbs. of torgue at 2,000 RPM to do the job. Looking at the Eaton blowers but the M90 is the only one that will fit. Would have to spin it at max just to get 10PSI. At that speed, noise would be an issue and I doubt it would flow enough air. Any of the axial ones (mechanical turbo) have reliability problems and need much higher compressor speeds to do the same job.

Good luck on your conversion. Looks like you have your act together. Trust me, the reactions on the street when you pull up beside someone making all the wrong noises is worth all the effort. With the wieght and profile advantages of your car, if you don't get 40+ MPG, your doing something wrong.

Bill

[arveetek]

Cool project!

I've done two diesel conversions, but they were both pretty straight-forward, into trucks that could have come with the 6.2L from the factory, so there was no real fabrication required.

How come you solid-mounted the engine to the k-member? Won't that create some serious vibrations through the whole vehicle? I know that when I replaced my rubber mounts with poly mounts, the extra vibration was very evident. I can't imagine running solid mounts.

Casey

[Rafedial1]

Casey,

well I thought since the car will be used mainly for drag/roadtrack racing that the solid mounts would be the best way to put the power to the ground. I am having second thoughts though. The natural vibration of a diesel is much more considerable than a gasser. My clearances throughout the drivetrain are very close. I did not want to take the chance of any contact with the body through the torque motion of the engine. To counteract the vibration problem I used ALOT of Dynamat sound deadener throughout the car, it won't be enough though. I guess I am willing to live with the distraction, until I build the next one, which will be much more streetworthy and user-friendly.

To everybody:
Yes, if you would like a 6.5L turbo diesel 4th Gen Camaro/Firebird I will build you one. My plan is to build 10 of these, depending on demand. I am documenting every measurement and detail as I go along. There will be performance options among lots of other options for the buyer. Come by the shop if you would like.

[Rafedial1]

Merry Christmas all!!

Alright, the car is coming along nicely. Ran into a couple issues. Anyone's help is appreciated.

I am building my own COMPLETE exhaust system for the car starting with 6.2/6.5 N/A manifolds. Are the outlet sizes/flanges the same for the 6.5L Turbo and N/A manifolds?

Is it mandatory to have the exh. manifold-to-head surface machined flat for the best seal before installing?

I noticed the factory exhaust manifolds use a donut style cintered metal gasket that fits into the manifold. On the other side is a flare and a 3 hole collar/flange that keeps the whole assembly together. Well I found the gaskets for the manifold easily but I can find something to work for the other side.

I thought about using a fabricated 3/8" flat flange mated to the flat surface of the exhaust manifold and a universal style DIY gasket material. My concern is the surface area is very small and leaks/failures seem very easy. Any ideas? I checked Heath's high-flow crossover pipe kit and it looks very nice. But again, I am not sure the 6.5 turbo and N/A manifolds have the same outlet dimensions. Ohh and a little too much $$ for me to just cut up later. The reason I am using the 6.5/6.2 N/A manifolds is for the remote mount turbocharger.

Next issue. I got my hands on a ESS out of a 93 6.5 turbo truck. I am looking to somehow use it for a tach signal and as an input for the stand-alone TCI 4L80E transmission controller. I know this has been asked before, but where do I start? Does the OEM ESS output a digital or analog signal? Can it be translated for use in a tach like Autometer's Part #3788 diesel tach. I see Autometer calls for using some cheesy 2-pole magnet deal that I don't like at all. Could this tach just be hardwired to the ESS? How about some type of crank-triggered sensor mounted near the balancer? I don't want something that'll jump around or be inaccurate? Any help?

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make my situation understandable.



Cody

[Burning Oil]

One thing I know is the ESS has 8 pulses per revolution. I had to know that when I did my Cummins into Chevy swap. We hooked up the ESS to a scope and read the # of pulses. I used the GM TCM to control the
4L80E.

[Rafedial1]

Keepin' pace with the project. Here it is after final engine placement.

Working on all the plumbing for fuel system, trans cooler, engine oil cooler, radiator, exhaust is just mocked up for alignment (working on keeping it sealed, see last post). Trans mount is complete, driveshaft cut and done, rear suspension completed. Re-working brake lines, removed ABS. Interior is getting a full set of gauges including EGT, Boost, Trans temp. Front suspension is complete including moving steering rack and coupler. Upgraded entire brake system to full disk/disk 12" rotor LS1 F-body specs (from small single piston front/drum rear) to slow this mutt down.

In the picture you can see the oil pan does hang below the front K-member by about an inch. It will be protected by a reinforced skid plate.

Car will be completely rewired with a universal style Painless harness.

Check out my previous post to see some questions I have not yet answered.

Car will have no HVAC due to my concerns for nose weight. 50/50 would be nice!

Brackets, brackets......fabricating :eek:

[93GMCSierra]

Wow, looking pretty good, can't wait to see how you mount and setup the turbo.

[trbankii]

Pretty amazing how fast your project has come along. I wish I could move my projects along that well!

[Rafedial1]

Well I thought i would start the new year by making a resolution to quit smoking cigs. So far so good. Happy New Year!

Cracked open the valve body on the 80E for some help from Transgo. What a mess! Replaced with some new solenoids and Transgo hard parts and Delco filter. Trans fluid looked ok before dissassembly. Also got the Transgo valve actuator repair kit. Now working on TCI Controller wiring....

Went with a Wolfe Racecraft rollbar with pre-notched tubes for strength, racing rules. Car got some updated interior pieces, Hurst shifter linked to the 80E.

I have some experience with DC electrical wiring but not enough. It has been a major obstacle with this car. I was fortunate enough to find some help from a previous GM tech for his advice about my setup. but it's intimidating!

Ohh, and these posts are somehwat delayed.

[Rafedial1]

Progress:

Plumbing completed
-fuel system sending and return
-trans cooler sending and return
-turbo oil sending and return
-radiator
-oil cooler sending and return

Wiring completed
-gauges, turn signals, headlights, brake lights, hazards
-windshield wipers

-Intercooler mounted

-Turbo mounted

-undercoating 1/2 done (Por15)

-switches for glows, fans, FSS, oil pump, vacuum pump done

Here are some progress pics.

Don't forget if you want one of these hand-built PM an offer!!

[Burning Oil]

Would love to see more pic's of the turbo. How are you returning oil to the engine?
How are you going to supply compressed air to the engine

[Rafedial1]

Would love to see more pic's of the turbo. How are you returning oil to the engine?
How are you going to supply compressed air to the engine

here's another pic of the turbocharger position.

I am returning the turbo oil to the engine with a gravity drain mated to an electric "scavenge" pump rated for oil temps over 200 deg F. Manually switched with warning indicator/redundancy.

The cold side/compressed air will be sent to the intercooler on the front of the car along the rocker panel and bottom of the car with 2.5" exhaust tubing, silicone couplers, and t-bolt clamps. Of course this has yet to be completed.

[93GMCSierra]

Wow, that is very cool. if that is going to be driven on the street though is the open air cleaner behind the rear wheels going to become a problem?
I know just for the track its fine.

Oh and with the distance you have to push the intake air will you need a higher psi boost?

[Rafedial1]

Wow, that is very cool. if that is going to be driven on the street though is the open air cleaner behind the rear wheels going to become a problem?
I know just for the track its fine.

Oh and with the distance you have to push the intake air will you need a higher psi boost?

The air cleaner and turbocharger are located where the fuel tank used to be, pretty high up in the chassis. Front my past experiences with F-body's none of the outside elements ever collect here. The filter will be getting and Outerwear (common on ATV's) to prevent any moisture from getting in. If needed i will fab up a shield to direct cool intake air and keep everything else out.

I appreciate any and all questions about the project. If you see something you would do different or that doesn't look right feel free to comment, I am always open to suggestion. Thanks.


Cody

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Man, if I had the money, this would be on my list. Looking awesome. What turbo are you running?

[Rafedial1]

Man, if I had the money, this would be on my list. Looking awesome. What turbo are you running?

Thanks Detroit!

The turbo is a HX35W from an '01 Dodge 24 valve H.O. truck. Picked it up really cheap with zero shaft play and no seals leaking.

The boost will be controlled by a Synapse 40 mm wastegate. Almost infinitely adjustable pressures, also picked up cheap, used. No diaphragm to wear out.

Will be starting off at 8 psi and working my way up till it puts a hole in the side of the block. :)

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Though highly not recommended, I have hit 24 psi a few times while towing.

[Rafedial1]

Well I thought i would start the new year by making a resolution to quit smoking cigs. So far so good.

Fail.......back to a pack a day.

[BigRabbitMan]

Fail.......back to a pack a day.
Don't worry about it, you can do this later - I did.

This project has rekindled my thoughts on my future conversion project of a Duramax into my FMC rear engined motor home. I have the LBZ in my garage. You are doing a very clean install and have been very resourceful in adapting things to fit and doing good metal work. I anxiously await the finished unit with lots of pictures.

[Rafedial1]

It's alive...

I just couldn't wait 'till I got it on the road.

Here's what went on in my head today. I had figured out the exhaust issues and fabbed up the wastegate plumbing. The oil was already going to the turbo and the scavenge pump was doing it's job. The cooling system was done, tightened up the clamps. The glow plugs wired, the FSS wired, starter wired, Tci trans controller 75% wired, gauges. Fuel sytem plumbed, fuel cell filled with some fuel and some additives, then primed the whole system. The trans cooler and system filled and flowing pressure. Tci programming done which includes many many calculations. Lub Specialist Oil Cooler tight and flowing. Serpentine belt system correct. Alternator wired and 95% total wiring completed. Oil primed, Baldwin filter. I sat and went over everthing in my head 100 times and was pretty confident she was ready.

So I thought I would crank her over and see if she would fire. And she did.....
http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/?action=view&current=MOV01065.flv

[Rafedial1]

Don't worry about it, you can do this later - I did.

This project has rekindled my thoughts on my future conversion project of a Duramax into my FMC rear engined motor home. I have the LBZ in my garage. You are doing a very clean install and have been very resourceful in adapting things to fit and doing good metal work. I anxiously await the finished unit with lots of pictures.

Thanks for the compliments. Your project sounds interesting, can't wait to see it in progress! Good score on the LBZ engine too!


Cody

[trbankii]

So I thought I would crank her over and see if she would fire. And she did.....
http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/?action=view&current=MOV01065.flv

Music to the ears!

That'll scare those kids at the stoplight in their Hondas with the coffee can mufflers! :eek: :D

[Rafedial1]

Music to the ears!

That'll scare those kids at the stoplight in their Hondas with the coffee can mufflers! :eek: :D

Thanks!!!

Glad you like.

I love this country and would never hesitate to display my pride :)

would like to note:
I purposefully went out of my way to use as many U.S.A. parts as possible. Often Gm or AcDelco originals. In my short years i have heard nothing but headaches from China parts. Down to my toggle switches I just couldn't do it. I trust to not always get the lowest price, but certainly the best quality. My Thanks goes out to those men/women for keepin' it real.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

That is one of the coolest projects I have ever seen. I might be a little biased as I am a 6.5 man, but all that aside, wow. I will be showing this video to my buddies.

Quick question, it didn't look like the plenum was hooked up?

[Rafedial1]

Thanks Detroit,

no the intake plenum is open, still working on the cold side of the turbo. Having trouble trying to get everything tucked up out of the way for ground clearance. I'm sure it would run better if it was.

Today:
Let the car get up to full temp today, idles at 650 rpm, and won't go hotter than about 200, with NO Fans and car not moving. Turn the fans on and it goes down to 180 quick.This was the biggest hurdle with the project, cooling, and i kicked *ss.

The turbo seems to lag a little when engine/exhaust is cold. As the heatsoak and exhaust energy rise, the turbo spools better. Can't wait to put a load on her. :)

The Bad:
I have a weeping freeze plug (right behind the solid motor mount) :mad:
1 drip every minute or so when at full engine temp. What should I do?

Getting some blow-by out the Tuna Can, vented to atmosphere. How much is too much?

Oil pressure at full engine temp WAS right around 20 psi. I noticed it was idling at 540-550 rpms so I raised it to 650, now oil psi is 25 at idle, full operating temp. Enough?


Otherwise NO fluid LEAKS!


Cody

[DmaxMaverick]

Nice job!

Nothing wrong with your oil pressure, even down to 10 PSI at hot idle. As long as it comes up under load and higher RPM's. It doesn't hurt to have the idle a little higher, but it wastes fuel, significantly.

Replace that plug, or try some "Cadillac Pills". They are a cooling system sealer GM carries, and is compatible with Dex-Cool, and the green stuff. I don't recommend most off-the-shelf sealers.

The blow-by is hard to call without an actual cylinder and/or crankcase pressure test. The vapor puffs from the CDR can seem significant, even when completely normal. New and really old engines display more. It could be your choice of motor oil, too. You should have a filter and/or condenser installed at the outlet if open to atmosphere.

[Rafedial1]

Thanks Maverick

Now that i think about it the blow-by isn't excessive. Oil pressure is good. Using Rot 15w-40, got about 5-6 hours run time so far, looks clean+no usage.

Mav, your sayin' to ask for "Cadillac pills" at the Gm parts counter? What's in em?

Here are some finished exhaust pics. My standards for exhaust are set pretty high. Fitment, clearances, routing, sound, blah, blah. I've been messin with exhaust design since young. My amateur welding skills help here as well. Turned out ok. No leaks.

Cody

[DmaxMaverick]

The "Cadillac Pills" are a cooling system sealer (they have an official name, but I don't know it, only the common name). Not unlike, in appearance, some other off-the-shelf remedies. I haven't used them, but know of several GM techs and shop owners who swear by them. Some Cadillac models include their use after head/gasket or other open cooling system repairs, in the repair procedure. I don't know if they are used from the factory, though.

At some time, the freeze plug needs to be replaced (better too soon, than too late). Sealers and rubber expansion plugs are band-aids.

[Rafedial1]

Mav, grabbed some of those Cadillac pills from the dealer and sure as sh**, it worked.

Thanks

[Rafedial1]

the bills caught up to me, the car is over budget :mad:

If i plan on marketing the car I will need to raise my retail price. It doesn't look like I can build anymore of these cars with any profit.

All I was trying to do is prove to myself an American car CAN have great mileage and power at a regular 4 door economy sedan price.

Vast research and part compatibility did keep my overall costs low, but the minor details have me by the balls. Now she has fuel leaks. Too much lift pump?

I managed to sell enough 6.5L and F-body parts to offset the overall, but gaskets, fittings, and little crap adds up.

No new progress for the week, maybe two weeks... bummin...

[john8662]

Really neat, just had to pop in...

Just one question really, why so big on the exhaust up to the turbolader?

Really, 3" OD (2 7/8" ID) would be perfect after the "Y", and I'd do right at 2 1/4" OD (2 1/8" ID, same as outlet ID on donut on manifolds) before the "Y" to maintain good spoolability. But for the track, if you have some lag you can just keep the 1600RPM Stall converter and you'll be able to build pretty good boost in your stall-up.

Exhaust is a PITA though...

Keep it up, I'm so glad you tossed a nasty 'ol gasser and put in a real engine. I seriously hate gasoline engines, can't stand the smell and how they work!

[Rafedial1]

Really neat, just had to pop in...

Just one question really, why so big on the exhaust up to the turbolader?

Really, 3" OD (2 7/8" ID) would be perfect after the "Y", and I'd do right at 2 1/4" OD (2 1/8" ID, same as outlet ID on donut on manifolds) before the "Y" to maintain good spoolability. But for the track, if you have some lag you can just keep the 1600RPM Stall converter and you'll be able to build pretty good boost in your stall-up.

Exhaust is a PITA though...

Keep it up, I'm so glad you tossed a nasty 'ol gasser and put in a real engine. I seriously hate gasoline engines, can't stand the smell and how they work!

I appreciate the kinds words John.

The exhaust is 2.5" before the Y, 3 inch after the Y all the way to the turbo. It's just an illusion. The exhaust is completely wrapped in some header wrap from the manifolds back, looks larger in diameter. Keeps the combustion heat/energy up and supposedly helps with spool time. just a little trick I learned from Camaro guys with STS butt mount turbos.

After hearing this thing come to life I am officially addicted for life!! :D

[Rafedial1]

Decided to attack the fuel leaks.

I noticed when running today the car was leaking fuel in two different places, one more than before. I knew the manifold had to come off. one problem, even the top manifold could not be removed without lowering the engine (contact with cowl) I thought I would have to remove the whole k-member with engine/trans attached. Sit and think....

Came up with a simple plan to get me some room with the intake man.
Unbolt 6 k-member bolts (leave struts bolted) and disconnect the steering Coupler, raise car. well, it worked.

Removed the manifold/serp belt/alt bracket and started her up. Fuel leaking out of #8 injection line at the pump, it was loose, the second time this has happened. Checked line-to-injector, no leaks. BUT!!!



On the passengers side the injector return lines are leaking, well.... seeping. The drives side is dry as a bone.

Lift pump the culprit? Too much supply volume/press????
The lift pump I am using was set at 6.5 psi, 120 gph. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel drain and adjusted lift pump (internal reg) to the recommen 4.5-5 psi. Well the return lines still leak on pass side.

My thoughts
-prob too much lift pump, trying to return excess fuel at idle (it's gone push/leak out somehwere>? Excess fuel bad for lift pump??

-or the routing of the fuel lines (fuel tank at higher elevation than engine)(a.ka. fighting gravity. I noticed on the c2500 pulled motor from, the return DOES have the help of gravity. Electric return fuel pump???

-Fixed injection line leaks, car runs 100% smoother.
-fuggin weaping freeze plug
-could these solid engine mounts be vibrating the car apart? loctite all bolts

Included a couple pics of the manifold since it is off.
Is the top intake the L65? What makes it the designation L65?

Took a look at the manifolds with the CDR port on it. should I drill/tap for a hose barb fitting and attach it to the intake? This atmosphere vent is not so eco-enviro.

Port the intake? i've ported a set of cast iron heads and one aluminum set. Turned out alright on the flow bench and the cars they were installed in.

Suspension: let the car sit at ride height, and my oil pan skid plate is about four inches off the ground :mad: May fab some 1/2"-1" strut spacers, yes a lift for the Camaro. Yet, it doesn't sit any lower than any 4th gen V8 F-body w/lowering springs. I ahve dealt with the issues of Lontube headers on a lowered LS1 F-body, my old one. I had Eibach springs about 2 inch drop and pacesetters. Bad bumps on the highway would casue a ball of sparks. Not good, but 2 years of driving and being careful I never blew through the pipe.

but with this car I don't want to be careful. I want to drive it like I stole it. Everyday. I guess we'll find out.

that is all.



Cody

[93GMCSierra]

Decided to attack the fuel leaks.

I noticed when running today the car was leaking fuel in two different places, one more than before. I knew the manifold had to come off. one problem, even the top manifold could not be removed without lowering the engine (contact with cowl) I thought I would have to remove the whole k-member with engine/trans attached. Sit and think....

Came up with a simple plan to get me some room with the intake man.
Unbolt 6 k-member bolts (leave struts bolted) and disconnect the steering Coupler, raise car. well, it worked.

Removed the manifold/serp belt/alt bracket and started her up. Fuel leaking out of #8 injection line at the pump, it was loose, the second time this has happened. Checked line-to-injector, no leaks. BUT!!!



On the passengers side the injector return lines are leaking, well.... seeping. The drives side is dry as a bone.

Lift pump the culprit? Too much supply volume/press????
The lift pump I am using was set at 6.5 psi, 120 gph. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel drain and adjusted lift pump (internal reg) to the recommen 4.5-5 psi. Well the return lines still leak on pass side.

My thoughts
-prob too much lift pump, trying to return excess fuel at idle (it's gone push/leak out somehwere>? Excess fuel bad for lift pump??

-or the routing of the fuel lines (fuel tank at higher elevation than engine)(a.ka. fighting gravity. I noticed on the c2500 pulled motor from, the return DOES have the help of gravity. Electric return fuel pump???

-Fixed injection line leaks, car runs 100% smoother.
-fuggin weaping freeze plug
-could these solid engine mounts be vibrating the car apart? loctite all bolts

Included a couple pics of the manifold since it is off.
Is the top intake the L65? What makes it the designation L65?

Took a look at the manifolds with the CDR port on it. should I drill/tap for a hose barb fitting and attach it to the intake? This atmosphere vent is not so eco-enviro.

Port the intake? i've ported a set of cast iron heads and one aluminum set. Turned out alright on the flow bench and the cars they were installed in.

Suspension: let the car sit at ride height, and my oil pan skid plate is about four inches off the ground :mad: May fab some 1/2"-1" strut spacers, yes a lift for the Camaro. Yet, it doesn't sit any lower than any 4th gen V8 F-body w/lowering springs. I ahve dealt with the issues of Lontube headers on a lowered LS1 F-body, my old one. I had Eibach springs about 2 inch drop and pacesetters. Bad bumps on the highway would casue a ball of sparks. Not good, but 2 years of driving and being careful I never blew through the pipe.

but with this car I don't want to be careful. I want to drive it like I stole it. Everyday. I guess we'll find out.

that is all.



Cody
This one I can help you with your other problems not so much..
The intake does not have an EGR which is a good thing.

[Rafedial1]

The posts about the issues with the car are superficial. What is realy important here is showing the viewers that almost anything is possible.

Read some facts about our country's current economic situation just empowers me more to speak my mind.

Diesel, specifically Bio-diesel is a very versatile fuel. Since commencing the Camaro project I have discovered this fact. Through my research I believe it is possible to use Diesel fuel to provide energy to more than just our vehicles. Our home's heat, electricity, and yearly income can truly be supplemented/supported by the use/growth of Bio-Diesel fuel/soybean oil/SVO. The American Farmers are such a great importance to our country's success already.


Recently I have seen post of single engine diesel generators that can support the energy usage of 10 houses. Not to mention solar energy and wind energy capabilities. If we need a way to sustain existence without our dependance on government intervetion/support, we do have other options. The fluctuation that occurs with our economic standards can be avoided when we create a way to depend on ourselves. The mind is a powerful thing.



Cody

[Rafedial1]

Quick question, it didn't look like the plenum was hooked up?


After much headache and time the cold side is complete. Ground clearance is the best i could get. Here are some pictures while in mockup stage. The whole charge pipe will be one piece, with one silicone coupler at each end of the car.

I kept cost down by using aluminized exhaust tubing. Picked up a bnuch of bends in 14 and 16 gauge, 22, 45, 90, S-bends off a dealer on Ebay for a bargain.

Brake system is complete.


A test drive is very near!!




Cody

[DmaxMaverick]

Wow! With all that pipe, you almost don't need a CAC. I wonder what the BTU exchange rate is on all that surface area???

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Should help to lower on it's own, thats for sure.

I can't remember if you had said where you got your CAC from in previous posts.

[Rafedial1]

Wow! With all that pipe, you almost don't need a CAC. I wonder what the BTU exchange rate is on all that surface area???

Good point. you got me thinkin'. The pipe is open to air current underneath the car. Like a heat sink, right?

[Rafedial1]

Should help to lower on it's own, thats for sure.

I can't remember if you had said where you got your CAC from in previous posts.

Ebay. CXracing, bar-n-plate. rated at less than 1 psi loss. Cheap.

For the next Camaro I build, it will prob be air-to-water intercooled.

[DmaxMaverick]

Good point. you got me thinkin'. The pipe is open to air current underneath the car. Like a heat sink, right?

Like a heat sink. The exposed area of 8' of 3" pipe will be approximately 912^2" (114^2"/ft.). The air under the car won't be as "fresh", or as volumetric as up front, and the heat conduction rate of aluminized steel is less than just aluminum, but it will definitely have an effect. In any case, you have about the effectiveness of 2 CAC's. Not a bad thing, IMO.

In hindsight, you could have designed the system with only the pipe used for cooling. Maybe something for the future. It would really cut a chunk off the cost. Straight sections of extruded/finned aluminum pipe can be had, for not much. Hmmmmmmm.

If you are going through all that trouble for the A-A CAC, you might as well use a A-L CAC. A little extra weight in the trunk won't hurt. But, cost will be a factor.

[Rafedial1]

Like a heat sink. The exposed area of 8' of 3" pipe will be approximately 912^2" (114^2"/ft.). The air under the car won't be as "fresh", or as volumetric as up front, and the heat conduction rate of aluminized steel is less than just aluminum, but it will definitely have an effect. In any case, you have about the effectiveness of 2 CAC's. Not a bad thing, IMO.

In hindsight, you could have designed the system with only the pipe used for cooling. Maybe something for the future. It would really cut a chunk off the cost. Straight sections of extruded/finned aluminum pipe can be had, for not much. Hmmmmmmm.

If you are going through all that trouble for the A-A CAC, you might as well use a A-L CAC. A little extra weight in the trunk won't hurt. But, cost will be a factor.


Hmmmm.... is right. Air-to water in the trunk would help with weight characteristics. Heat exchanger in the front or underneath the rear of the car, simple electric coolant pump. Something like that.

Extruded finned Aluminum tubing. Like the PMD coolers for the 6.5L but for the charge pipe>? Aluminum itself would increase the heat dissipation. Interesting....

I wish i left the IAT sensor in the manifold and had a way to measure intake temp during operation.

What is methanol injection? I don't quite understand how it all works?


Cody

[Rafedial1]

Here is the car at ride height. Suspension, drivetrain completed.

[DmaxMaverick]

WMI (Water Mist Injection), or methanol injection (same thing, essentially), is only a system to inject a water and/or methanol mist into the intake. Water expands into steam and carries away heat, while Methanol does the same thing (although less efficient at heat exchange). Methanol is also a fuel, so you will need more O2 to burn it. Similar to propane injection, you will still need enough air to burn all the fuel. Only throwing in more fuel can be counterproductive, and very destructive (boom!). WMI has been around for decades, and was used in WWII combat planes for extra power.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Here is the car at ride height. Suspension, drivetrain completed.

Wow, that is sick. I love it. Dang, why can't I have enough money? Even though I would probably go through the pain of building my own because that's something I like to do. But wow, that looks so good.
The rims look slightly Corvette?
Looking absolutely awesome. Mind if I upload some pics to my Facebook account? That is one sick car.

D-Max: Basically all you would need is an injector of sorts that you could activate right? Like if you got a TBI injector and rigged that in your intake and had a way to control the amount that was sprayed?

[Rafedial1]

[QUOTE=6.5 Detroit Diesel;250253]Wow, that is sick. I love it. Dang, why can't I have enough money? Even though I would probably go through the pain of building my own because that's something I like to do. But wow, that looks so good.
The rims look slightly Corvette? [B]Yes, C5 but rare metal.
Looking absolutely awesome. Mind if I upload some pics to my Facebook account? That is one sick car. QUOTE]

Thanks Detroit,

I am always for sharing info.

Let me explain my situation.

I would love to continue with a career in doing just this. Building these cars one by one, maybe two at a time. I'm young, just 22. I have a great girl and my mind set on being financially stable soon. If these cars sell, it would be my only income. I need to dedicate 100% of my time to a project like this.

The build process is well detailed here at tdp. It would be great to see a bunch of these cars on the road.

BUT! Where does sharing, become not so proprietary?

What I am also trying to say is go for it, design your very own diesel swap.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Thanks Detroit,

I am always for sharing info.

Let me explain my situation.

I would love to continue with a career in doing just this. Building these cars one by one, maybe two at a time. I'm young, just 22. I have a great girl and my mind set on being financially stable soon. If these cars sell, it would be my only income. I need to dedicate 100% of my time to a project like this.

The build process is well detailed here at tdp. It would be great to see a bunch of these cars on the road.

BUT! Where does sharing, become not so proprietary?

What I am also trying to say is go for it, design your very own diesel swap.[/QUOTE]

No worries man. Nice to get some other young blood on here. (No offense to anyone here). I am 22 myself, and no girl. So maybe a little more free time than you with not as many perks. :-D

Like I said before, we have a 3rd gen that we are building for track, but maybe thinking of going spark plug delete. In which case, I will be looking here for advice. Again, I think that your project is awesome. Just wish I had time and money to do likewise.


"If these cars sell, it would be my only income. I need to dedicate 100% of my time to a project like this."

Go for it man. You gotta do what you love if you get the chance. Looking forward to seeing a test run

[DmaxMaverick]

Wow, that is sick. I love it. Dang, why can't I have enough money? Even though I would probably go through the pain of building my own because that's something I like to do. But wow, that looks so good.
The rims look slightly Corvette?
Looking absolutely awesome. Mind if I upload some pics to my Facebook account? That is one sick car.

D-Max: Basically all you would need is an injector of sorts that you could activate right? Like if you got a TBI injector and rigged that in your intake and had a way to control the amount that was sprayed?

Not that complicated. A TBI injector would be a poor choice. They aren't designed for the duty cycle. All that is necessary, is a source of H2O/Methanol pressure (pump, and reservoir), a valve, of sorts (usually a solenoid valve), the injector (nothing more than an orifice, similar to NOS systems, or drip irrigation misters, more simply), and a method to deploy it at the right time and volume. Boost pressure is a good regulator for injection timing, and volume (more boost, more water/methanol). Or, you could just buy one of the electronic versions. Once installed, WMI is essentially free cooling and power (plus the cost of alcohol, if you use it).

[Rafedial1]

Not that complicated. A TBI injector would be a poor choice. They aren't designed for the duty cycle. All that is necessary, is a source of H2O/Methanol pressure (pump, and reservoir), a valve, of sorts (usually a solenoid valve), the injector (nothing more than an orifice, similar to NOS systems, or drip irrigation misters, more simply), and a method to deploy it at the right time and volume. Boost pressure is a good regulator for injection timing, and volume (more boost, more water/methanol). Or, you could just buy one of the electronic versions. Once installed, WMI is essentially free cooling and power (plus the cost of alcohol, if you use it).

Mav,

I will keep that in mind. WMI will definately be added to the next Camaro.

[Rafedial1]

No new progress for today as of yet.

I thought I would share some pictures of the charge pipe being welded by me.

A friend of mine, a plumber apprentice was talking about it and mentioned how they have to pressure test for leaks in houses. So he mentioned that the same principles would apply for the car. Well, i agreed but didn't have a way of doing that.

I made a trip to the big box store and looked around.

This is what I rigged up, pics below like always. What you see is the first version, worked great. After thinking, I decided to later add a pressure gauge. Made the rig up for around $20. All it is is 2 in. PVC tube, rubber couplers, air quick disconnect, and hose clamps. Held almost 15 psi at one point. All my welds were solid, didn't even go back over them. :D


Cody

[Rafedial1]

here are some interior shots. Completed gauge cluster, switch panel, relays, all wiring completed. Took the car for a nice test drive today. No leaks, good ECT, great power!!!, good EGT, good PSI (??psi), very little turbo lag, shifts great, good trans temp, steers ok (needs align), no driveshaft vibs, good pinion angle, no so good on traction, brakes WELL with LS1 brakes, good weight trasnfer. I ****ing love it.


Cody

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Wow, great to hear! I really like the DD sticker. That alone will get you some looks. So I am guessing that the tires are trying to resurface the road in correlation with the depression of the skinny pedal? :-)

Picture one, is it just me, or are you having a little Oil Pressure trouble at 60 mph? LOL

Can't wait to see a video!

[Rafedial1]

it's been awhile since I posted. been workin hard to make some money. The Camaro has also been gettin the bugs worked out of her.

some have asked for some on road vids....

had some time today, and my father was home. I let him film and drive the car too. car was running great today.

Turn it up!!!

http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/?action=view&current=MOV01332.flv

[6.5NOVA]

nice video, maby you can film it also with a open hood and film it when you drive the car with the cameraman in the car.

[Rafedial1]

Car is running great still!

I have yet to break her!!! :D:D:D

Idle/Walkaround Vid.....

http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/?action=view&current=MOV01216.flv

[GregCrabb]

This is such a cool conversion! I just love the turbo whistle as it spools up...I can barely hear it on my little TDI Beetle from the inside. Wish my 6.2 had one. I'd love to see this car in person!!!

[dealwithit]

man this is such a sweet build!!!!! ever throught about doing one with a duramax? man that would be sweet! oh props to your shop setup, man i wish i had such a nice place to build my projects :D

[Rafedial1]

updated pics of the car.....she is finally complete. she is gettin' a Delta 206 Camshaft installed soon, with before/after dyno results...stay tuned
-Cody
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/Diesel%20Camaro%20Pics/DSC01979.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/Diesel%20Camaro%20Pics/DSC01980.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/Diesel%20Camaro%20Pics/DSC01982.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/Diesel%20Camaro%20Pics/DSC01986.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/Diesel%20Camaro%20Pics/DSC01985.jpg

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Props X10. Man, that is a sweet looking setup. Very nice. I love it, very nice stance, nice wide open intake, that is one sweet looking ride.

[silver97z]

This is the coolest thing I've seen in quite a while! I remember an episode of pimp my ride where they installed a diesel into a '60s model Nova (I think). I always wondered if it would be possible in a newer model sports car...I guess it is!!

The Firebird dash was a nice touch too, perfect for the guages.

[chevrolettd]

hey remember me me and my friend came from missoure to trade you some heads for a radiator for my 6.2 project. its done and i didn't even use the radiater, your truck had the heavy duty cooling system so i just bought a new one and it was still worth the trip to see your car mines a 93 1/2 ton 2wd regular cab longbed nv4500 5 speed i put a 93 6.2 in it with a 95, 6.5 turbo setup and a gear drive and zoom clutch 3 inch down pipe and 5 inch stack mid 20 mpg range id guess runs great and turnes heads check it out on you tube just type in 6.2 turbo diesel find the red half ton click my channel and watch all of them.if anyone has questions i did some custom stuff to.

[Rafedial1]

It's that time of year!

working hard with the car all winter and made a few changes.

new holset vgt turbo, synapse wastegate, relocated radiator/core support also added Stg2 Snow WmI(not pictured) with one 625 nozzle.
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03338.jpg
went from 2.73 ratio to 3.42
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03415.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03265.jpg
http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu203/Rafedial1/DSC03275.jpg

[93GMCSierra]

Wow thats a hell of a change, I am undecided about the placement of the exhaust.

[Rafedial1]

thanks.

i have have no ill effects with the exhaust where it is. no smell inside the car, no paint heat, i do have to wash the car more often, not so bad...

someday I'll have the money to buy a nice K-member for the 6.5 to rest on and route the exhaust accordingly. currently no room.

it is loud.