befland
11-24-2008, 17:42
Within the last 6 months I put a new motor in my 1983 C10. Supposedly this motor was a GM Target engine with approx 8K miles. From the best I could tell before I installed the engine (and after installation) I would guess this to be true. I installed this turbo (Banks/MHI): http://www.oliverdiesel.com/tech/mhiturbo.htm
I've put about 1500 miles on the engine since installed. It was running extremely well. The only problem I had was when I drove it for over 30 miles or so the temp would start creeping up. It never got "hot" but did climb a little over 200deg on a couple of occasions. I attributed this to the fact that I had never had the timing set and that it was possibly running to rich. Keep in mind that this is a 1/2 ton shortbed truck and I was not pulling anything.
Also, this new turbo would jump to over 10 lbs of boost very quickly...somewhere around 12lbs (my old Banks was 7lbs max). It would boost 3-5lbs at very light throttle. I thought this also was a factor in the higher temps.
For cooling, I have the dual crossover with 180 t-stats, the Duramax fan, 6.5 HO water pump (converted my 6.2 to serpentine setup) and the "Kennedy" fan clutch. I had the radiator cleaned and rodded before I put the engine in.
I do NOT have the lower compression pistons.
Problem: The other night I was coming down the interstate when I floored the accelerator to pass a slow car in the passing lane. About 2-3 miles later I noticed that the truck was skipping (actually sounded like the timing was off) and losing power. At the same time the temperature started rising rapidly and I let my foot off of the accelerator. The truck shut off just before the temp reached the red zone on the gauge (factory temp gauge)...I had my hand on the key to turn it off. I glided to a stop and let it cool for a few minutes. The top rad hose was hard as a rock. I could not see any coolant or oil anywhere (no leaks of any kind). Coolant was full and oil was full (no coolant in the oil). I tried turning it over but it would not start. I let it sit over night but still no start. It hits like it might start but doesn't.
I have not really taken anything apart yet but I've sorta ruled out some things just for reasons that seem logical to me (which may not be correct).
1) I don't think it jumped time since I have a brand new dual idler setup installed (and I didn't hear anything break). 2) I would think if it's a head gasket, cracked cylinder/block, I would see some sort of sign (i.e. coolant) and I would think it would still run. 3) if it was a broken rod or hole in the piston I would think it would still run (or at least knock when cranking). 4) If it was an injector, it would still run...but skip or knock.
The only conclusion I can come to is maybe that it is fuel related....IP possibly? I installed a new lift pump when I installed the motor and the IP only had a couple thousand miles on a rebuilt unit from my old engine (4911 IP with high flow injectors). The IP was one I bought from a rebuilder online and the first one I received from him was way off (timing was off 180. Not sure how that was related to the pump but that's what it turned out to be.) At any rate when I installed the current pump with everything setting the same way I took the other one off, it ran fine.
At any rate, anyone got any other ideas?
Bill
I've put about 1500 miles on the engine since installed. It was running extremely well. The only problem I had was when I drove it for over 30 miles or so the temp would start creeping up. It never got "hot" but did climb a little over 200deg on a couple of occasions. I attributed this to the fact that I had never had the timing set and that it was possibly running to rich. Keep in mind that this is a 1/2 ton shortbed truck and I was not pulling anything.
Also, this new turbo would jump to over 10 lbs of boost very quickly...somewhere around 12lbs (my old Banks was 7lbs max). It would boost 3-5lbs at very light throttle. I thought this also was a factor in the higher temps.
For cooling, I have the dual crossover with 180 t-stats, the Duramax fan, 6.5 HO water pump (converted my 6.2 to serpentine setup) and the "Kennedy" fan clutch. I had the radiator cleaned and rodded before I put the engine in.
I do NOT have the lower compression pistons.
Problem: The other night I was coming down the interstate when I floored the accelerator to pass a slow car in the passing lane. About 2-3 miles later I noticed that the truck was skipping (actually sounded like the timing was off) and losing power. At the same time the temperature started rising rapidly and I let my foot off of the accelerator. The truck shut off just before the temp reached the red zone on the gauge (factory temp gauge)...I had my hand on the key to turn it off. I glided to a stop and let it cool for a few minutes. The top rad hose was hard as a rock. I could not see any coolant or oil anywhere (no leaks of any kind). Coolant was full and oil was full (no coolant in the oil). I tried turning it over but it would not start. I let it sit over night but still no start. It hits like it might start but doesn't.
I have not really taken anything apart yet but I've sorta ruled out some things just for reasons that seem logical to me (which may not be correct).
1) I don't think it jumped time since I have a brand new dual idler setup installed (and I didn't hear anything break). 2) I would think if it's a head gasket, cracked cylinder/block, I would see some sort of sign (i.e. coolant) and I would think it would still run. 3) if it was a broken rod or hole in the piston I would think it would still run (or at least knock when cranking). 4) If it was an injector, it would still run...but skip or knock.
The only conclusion I can come to is maybe that it is fuel related....IP possibly? I installed a new lift pump when I installed the motor and the IP only had a couple thousand miles on a rebuilt unit from my old engine (4911 IP with high flow injectors). The IP was one I bought from a rebuilder online and the first one I received from him was way off (timing was off 180. Not sure how that was related to the pump but that's what it turned out to be.) At any rate when I installed the current pump with everything setting the same way I took the other one off, it ran fine.
At any rate, anyone got any other ideas?
Bill