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crawfjc
11-05-2008, 16:22
:(:(
Ok so here is the written background and treatments I have performed recently on my 95 GMC 6.5 Diesel 2500 Vandura (121,000 miles). It all began innocently enough…when the vehicle would start, I would put it gear and it would stall. As the story goes with all the others I have read, it then became very difficult to start. The WST would come on for a split second and then go out. After turning the key many times back and forth I would occasionally be fortunate enough to get the WTS light to remain on for 10-12 seconds and the engine would then immediately start, but I really had to keep the RPMs up to prevent if from stalling out. My research told me to change the glow plug relay and the glow plugs. Upon doing that (I only was able access 7 of the 8 plugs successfully at this time), I turned on the key, the Wait To Start (WST) light came on for about 12 seconds, and the engine started immediately. Hallelujah I thought! So I started to drive around the block and the darn engine stalled halfway home...then started and I made it home. The next day it started and I went to get some fuel and again it stalled on the way home. This time it took about 30 minutes before the engine started. Further research seemed to indicate that I should change the PMD to a FSD heat sync located outside of the “valley” of the engine. $370 dollars later plus another $45 for an extension cable (plus an awful lot of blind pushing and pulling) I finished the new heat sync installation. Excitedly, I got into the vehicle and began cranking…and cracking…and cranking without success. I plugged in my engine heater outlet as well as jumped the battery with another vehicle to ensure I had adequate cranking speed to start the vehicle. All sadly, without success. Each time I tried to start the vehicle, the WTS light would come on for about 2 seconds during the initial crank and then go out. Then each time after that, the WTS light would flash on and then immediately go off. With each on/off sequence I would hear the relay click on and off (because I wasn’t confident enough to put the doghouse cover back on LOL).
At that time I learned about The Diesel Page so I joined and ordered the 6.5 trouble shooting manual. More web research led me to believe that I might need to ground the FSD which I did…no change. Additionally, while everything was open, I removed the gas filter, cleaned the canister, installed a new gas filter and bled the line. I also learned of the paper clip test to read the DTCs. I was getting 14, 31, 42, 57, and 58. Reading accounts/suggestions from others seem to indicate that 57 was the problem code so I began trying to look at all the negative connections (I feel a little lost when it comes to electrical stuff). In my ignorance of my van, I discovered that I had a 2nd battery under the vehicle behind the driver’s seat. Severe corrosion presented a challenge to both access and removing the battery. Purchase notes on the top of the battery would place the battery at 10 years old…hmmmm, it was only labeled as a 60 monther. After changing that battery along with two new connection studs, I got in the vehicle and it fired right up. I ran it for five minutes and then it shut off. I re-read the DTCs and got 31, 48, 57, and 58. I then reset the codes and cranked the vehicle again…it fired right up. This time I let it run for 3 hours and turned it off. I read the DTCs and again got 14, 31, 42, 57, and 58. I tried to start the vehicle again and it wouldn’t start having the same scenario as listed previously (in italic font) would occur. I tried to reset the codes as I had in the past by pressing the brake and accelerator pedal simultaneously without success. I read the DTCs again and am only receiving 57 at this time. I just waited 6 hours and tried to start again without success…still getting only 57 on the DTC.
Next, I have examined 4 of the 5 grounds that I found; unscrewed, cleaned and tightened…there are two small wires that go from the primary ground under the front upward…one I think goes to the IP(?) and I don’t know where the other goes…additionally, I grounded the FSD back to the battery with a separate wire…should I have done that or not?

I've gone through the 25 questions that TDP wanted me to answer and they can be listed in separate post. So where do I go from here? It seems something strange is going on in the grounding system…or the FSD? All advice/comments would be considered helpful.


JC

93_Burrito
11-05-2008, 19:18
Hi,

Have a look at this thread (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=3597&highlight=pcm+short)


-Andy

crawfjc
11-06-2008, 08:14
Hey Andy,

I read your recommended thread...much of that I have already done of course, but I had a couple of additional thoughts/questions. Can the alternator go out intermittenly? Would that indeed cause a short and a Code 57? Otherwise I wouldn't have been able to alllow the vehicle to run for over three hours after I had changed the second battery. Is there a way to check the ignition switch to see if it is perhaps faulty without replacing it?

Thanks,
JC

JohnC
11-06-2008, 08:50
Is your glow plug issue definitely fixed?

DTC 57 means either a wiring harness short or a faulty sensor. As long as you are getting DTC 57 you will have problems as the PCM cannot get the data it needs to run the engine.

crawfjc
11-06-2008, 12:27
JohnC (my name too),

Well I thought the glow plug problem was gone with new plugs and a new relay...when it would start all through this session, the relay would work exactly as it should...WTS on for 10-12 sec. and then cycling on and off til the proper temp was achieved. what would indicate that it was still a problem? and where and how might I be able to check the "sensors"?

Thanks so much,
JC

JohnC
11-06-2008, 14:57
Of all the other codes the only one that I think is related to the 5V supply is 31. Check the baro ensor on the firewall. Maybe you can just unplug it. that supply line also feeds the crankshaft sensor and the boost sensor.

The reason I asked about the glow plugs is the other codes you had point to bad grounds, probably the one on the rear of the passenger's side head at the intake manifold.

crawfjc
11-07-2008, 00:34
Hey John,

I have tried to find a drawing, picture, or instuction of where on the firewall I would locate the Baro sensor wire to disconnect it without success...if you or someone could please point me in the right direction...

Thanks so much,
JC

crawfjc
11-07-2008, 07:16
Hey JohnC,

With respect to the ground you mentioned, I don't recall a ground in that location (at the manifold)...howerever, at the lower rear passenger side of this van there was an engine ground stud that had the braided flat copper wire that was grounded to the frame about 18" away. I did remove, clean and reattache connections at those two points.
:confused:

Thanks so much,
JC

JohnC
11-07-2008, 09:57
Vans may be different. All the sensor and PCM grounds come together somewhere. On pickups, it's at the rear of the intake manifold on the passenger's side. Ditto the baro sensor location. Find a "T" in the vacuum line for the EGR valve and follow the vacuum line to the sensor.

crawfjc
11-11-2008, 11:46
Hey JohnC,

OK I found another ground from the sensors hidden behind the trannny stick at the back of the pass side manifold (just like you said LOL) I cleaned it up, disconnected and then connected the battery, and tried to reset the codes. I was reading 12 and it fired right up...sadly, this was good for about 15 minutes and then it stalled while idling...just shut off. Again, I have the same DTC sequence as before...14,31,42,57,58.
Just when I think the problem is solved, I get shot in the foot again!

Thanks so much,
JC

crawfjc
11-11-2008, 11:51
Hey JohnC,

If you think I should try to disconnect the Baro Sensor, I will try that...just not certain where it is located.

thanks so much,
JC

crawfjc
11-12-2008, 21:48
Hey JohnC...or anyone else,

My research seems to indicate that I would disconnect it on the firewall above and to the right of the master cylinder...there seem to be three different connections at that point...whch is the correct one?

thanks so much,
JC