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View Full Version : Stanadyne or DTech PMD?



Jochen Woern
10-31-2008, 00:04
Which is the better PMD? Stanadyne or DTech?

Where can a DTech PMD be purchased at the chaepest price?

Thanks in advance.

JFerg65
10-31-2008, 03:35
I recently (about three or four months ago purchased a new D-Tech. That was based on the info from the info / advice from this websight. I purchased mine from an outfit in Pensacola Florida. I was very pleased with their service and support.

arveetek
10-31-2008, 06:38
I went with D-tech as well. Much cheaper than Stanadyne, and if the Stanadyne unit doesn't last very long, might as well go with the D-tech. I haven't had any issues. Best price I found was on Ebay from Pensacola Diesel. I'm very pleased.

Casey

Robyn
10-31-2008, 07:06
I have a DTech on Dahooley and have had zero issues.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.

I got mine from a local shop in Portland that does diesel pumps and injectors.

I needed a PMD for the Burb a while back after the Infamous "SOL D" took a poop.
I saw Mark at Diesel fuel injection in Portland and at that time he was just taking on the DTech stuff.
I was looking for an "On the Cheap" fix so I paid him $25 and grabbed a couple from the used can in the corner.

One was good and is still on the rig. The other one had issues and went back and he happily replaced it with another trip to the grab bag.


Go with the Detch, its cost effective and the reports are good and holding.

Best

Robyn

DmaxMaverick
10-31-2008, 10:31
A few months ago, Stanadyne endorsed the D-Tech FSD as an acceptable OEM replacement. Given the choice now, I'd go with the D-Tech. The Stanadyne OEM has known issues they have yet to resolve (and probably won't). The D-Tech seems solid, and since it's release, many Stanadynes purchased since have already died. I haven't heard the same of the D-techs.

JohnC
10-31-2008, 10:34
A few months ago, Stanadyne endorsed the D-Tech FSD as an acceptable OEM replacement.


Doncha mean GM?

;)

DmaxMaverick
10-31-2008, 10:49
Doncha mean GM?

;)

You may be right. Either way, it should stay off pump warranty issues, if it becomes an issue. Before, GM wouldn't cover a pump if anything other than an OEM installation, including the PMD and its location. Most of them are out of the extended warranty, but there are still a lot of later models in service, and a lot of GM serviced older units. Most dealers aren't on board with remote mounting, which seemed to be the only other option for a long time. They may have been somewhat right on that, as they still failed under the best of conditions.

Jochen Woern
10-31-2008, 11:10
Thanks everyone, I do appreciate the feedback.

Jochen Woern
10-31-2008, 11:30
Sorry Guys, but one last question came to mind. When swapping my Stanadyne PMD with a DTech PMD, can I:

a.) Use the old resistor from the Stanadyne unit and put it in the DTech?

b.) If a.) is a YES, can I use the existing #5 Resistor (which was provided with the Kennedy FSD Cooler Kit) or do I need a different Resistor?

c.) If a.) is a NO, do I need to specify a Resistor with the new DTech PMD when ordering or does a Resistor always come with the PMD?

-----> Seems that Pensacola Diesel has currently the cheapest price I found, $163.00 for the DTech PMD. BUT, when I look at their PMD Cooler Kit, it does come with a #9 and NOT a #5 Resistor.

Thanks for the help.

Jochen Woern
11-02-2008, 11:29
Anyone Please???

derekja
11-02-2008, 11:53
I reused my resistor and it all worked OK.

DmaxMaverick
11-02-2008, 11:58
Anyone Please???

What would you like to hear?

If about the resistor, use what you have. Keep the computer happy, and you'll be happy. It's the PCM that looks for the resistor, and with a 5, it'll be within computer happy range, regardless of your pump calibration. If your FSD is remote mounted, it's easy enough to try it with and without. But, no reason to get another resistor, in any case.

The #9 resistor very slightly increases the fuel volume at WOT (over a #5, and not noticeable in most cases), but it can cause issues with the PCM. It depends on how the pump is calibrated. A #9 may be out of range of what the PCM expects to see. Not often, but it happens.

JFerg65
11-02-2008, 17:20
I got mine from pensocola and it did come with a #9. I put it in to start. I did notice a slight difference, starting easier. But within a day or two I started throwing a check engine light. This seemed to go when I was loaded and began to pull away from a stop. It would reset after awhile. I decided then to go back to teh #5. No problems with codes since.

So....I guess I would pull out teh old #5 and go withit. Keep the #9 for a spare.

Jochen Woern
11-02-2008, 17:53
Thanks very much everyone, very much appreciated.

skittle
11-03-2008, 12:01
How appropriate that we are this close to an election day, and I have to make a decision on which fsd to use?

Please forgive my discussion of the RemarQ, but I believe my post in whole, is appropriate to this discussion of FSD's in general.

First, I am saddened that the RemarQ thing didn't turn out better. My '95 truck has been running a RemarQ FSD for 2 years and 8 months, and over 75,000 miles without a glitch. Of course it is worth mentioning the cold start issues. This rig used to start 100% of the time down to -10 deg F, and about 50% of the time between -20 and -10 deg F. The RemarQ shifted those numbers about 10 deg F warmer. It is difficult to say exactly due to a motor change in the middle of those 75k miles. I doubt there is any statistical significance of the motor change. The fuel mileage average was dead nuts the same (after about a 1 month of data, and beyound). In talking with Christian Stan some time ago, I found out that the RemarQ FSD goes into self protect mode at a much higher voltage that the Stanadyne. I don't have my notes but I believe it was 8 volts and 6 volts for RemarQ and Stanadyne, respectively. Please correct me if needed. Knowing this, I attempted to regain the cold startability by wiring a tee'd in 12 volt supply from the left hand battery post to the RemarQ FSD, via a relay signaled from by "start/cranking". Sadly, this may have got me only 1/2 way there. I almost wired up a 3rd (motorcycle) battery that would charge from the system while running, and be isolated during start/crank mode to drive the FSD. This would be a wasted effort if RemarQ is out of business? Not to mention, more money spent, more parts to fail, more weight on the vehicle, and all this just so one could pay more for the RemarQ. Don't get me wrong, my experience is that this one RemarQ has outlasted the some of any two of the previous six Stanadyne FSD's.

I'm seriously looking at the DTech for the mileage maker '99 Suburban project. Price of the DTech would allow one to carry a spare for the RemarQ price currently listed on their website.

The bad thing for the '95 rig... It's been so long ago, I don't have any idea where the Stanadyne FSD went, or what resister was installed in it? That would be good info to have when, or perhaps "IF" the RemarQ will fail. I believe the injection pump reliability I'm seeing, is not an accident, running the injection pump naked has to help!!! Since the RemarQ doesn't require the resistor, I didn't thing twice. The RemarQ advantage, now is potentially another pain for me.

Running 454's we learned to carry two spare fuel pumps. Running the 6.5L's, it was instinctive to carry a spare fuel pump, fuel filter and priming jumper wire. I've also learned to carry a spare oil pressure sending unit and I really need to be prepared to carry a spare FSD.

I like the idea of mounting the FSD on top of the engine, no wire mods or extensions required. The obvious service improvement is similar to extensions that move it elsewhere.

The naked pump should also be a plus, I recommend to anyone that you cut the dead weight FSD off the pump if you don't want to take the manifold off to do it. It can be done, and if I find my FSD, or a picture, I'll share it. We had to cut one corner to free the last c/s.

Another plus that RemarQ had (with a price) was the one piece FSD and cooler. One did not have to mess with the paste! Especially on the road.

Perhaps the DTech on the intake for primary service, and a remote wire and mount for the backup. Then any road service is a simple wire connector swap? This again has a cost! But, lost vacation and tow bills and family sitting on the road has a cost too.

Enough!!?