Rotten Egg Smell!

[Fightfan]

I have a problem that I haven't encountered in a diesel truck before. When my truck idles it gives off a nasty rotten egg smell. It leaks into the cab from any opening like the vents or an open window. It goes away once I start moving, and most likely because I am moving. What in the Holy Lord's Sacred Name is this and what's causing it? It just started at around 90k miles. And if you have the answer, please be gentle. One more dealer only part/fix and I may just puke. Thanks for anyone who can help me.

[Duramaster]

How is the charging system? Is the alternator "COOKING" the batteries? Are the batteries leaking? If the batteries are "GASSING" when the engine is running, that will make a rotten egg/ sulfur smell.

[Mark Rinker]

Hmmm...gassers often emit sulphurous smelling odors from the catalytic converter, but haven't smelled that with diesels.

Also, your '01 wouldn't have a cat, right? Or...is it a Cali truck? If so, I'd say its something to do with your cat and or EGR system.

Either that or burning Shell Rotella, getting past the rings when your trucks pistons aren't quite warmed up and sealing yet. Try changing brands next oil change - that would be an easy one to eliminate.

(BTW your 2000 FXDWG is my favorite model Harley. I worked at a dealership as Parts Manager in 2000, and rode a few - they have the right stance, bars, and look very nice. I built a 2000 FXDX at that time, with color matched purple quarter fairing, a big bore kit, torque enhancing cam, 44mm carb and a Vance/Hines 2:1 pipe. It was the only H-D I personally have ridden that would hook up and wheelie right off the launch, and then bounce the front tire effortlessly 8-10" when banging 2nd...what a monster ride. :) )

[DmaxMaverick]

'01 CA Duramax trucks don't have a cat. The cat and EGR didn't start until M/Y 2002.

If not batteries, check for a coolant leak (well, check anyway). Most probably the turbo coolant return line behind the fan pulley. Any indication of crud in that area will be the coolant hose to tube connection failing. Old Dex-Cool vaporing off of a hot engine will have an acidic odor to it.

Several motor oils have a bad odor for a while after a change. Rotella is one of the worst. The LB7 engine crankcase vent is open to atmosphere, and can have a smell pretty close to the sulphuric smell of other chemicals. If you aren't experienced with all the different odors, it can be difficult to tell what it is. But, rotten eggs usually points right to the batteries.

[Fightfan]

My truck is an Ohio truck, so I would think emissions are out. Interesting that someone brought up the batteries. I have a problem with my batteries being dead. In fact, right now my truck is parked because I can't keep them charged long enough to drive it somewhere. I can jump start the truck, go somewhere, and when I go to leave the batteries may or may not have the sand to start hte truck back up. Sometime they hold a charge and start overnite and sometimes they are dead in 15 minutes. I have been looking for a 12v constant draw that has been illuding me. Also, while I was deployed to Afghanistan from January to September, the truck mostly sat. With a "cooking" battery, would changing the alternator or batteries help this? Both batteries checked good when tested. I also changed out my starter. Thanks for the input.

[Duramaster]

Are the batteries OEM? If so, they have out lasted their 5-6 year rating. Replace the batteries and hook a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) and check the charging system voltage. Should be around 14.6 volts. Check/ clean the major battery grounds on the block. There should be one on each side down low on the block. Just to add, I have never smelled any kind of sulfur smell from a DMAX regardless of year. The new LMM's have their own regen smell, but that's a whole other creature.

[trailrider0493]

When my truck was new I had the problem of not being able to keep the batteries charged. GM replaced one battery as it tested DEAD, but the problem was a relay in the ac system that was stuck open and kept drawing the batteries down.

[Fightfan]

I can't for the life of me understand why this problem is so hard to track down. I'm about to sell the truck because I need a vehicle that is worth a $h!t. If I remove my alternator, can it be checked for cooking my batteries? Will it be drawing juice through the charging cable? WTF?!

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Are you sure it's the batteries? My truck started smelling real bad on the interior and it turned out that there was mold accumulating on the heater core. I had it in for routine maint. and I asked the dealer about this. They said while they were replacing my cabin filters they would spray some mold killer (?) on the core. Two years later no smell. ALSO, I always turn off the A/C and let the blower run for a few minutes before I shut the truck down. Apparently moisture accumulates on the core while in the A/C mode and then gets moldy. Turning on the heat speeds up the process. I may be off target here, but that fixed my smelly problem. Good luck.
JP

[Duramaster]

If you have a good dealer around, you might be able to get the Service Manager to come out and take a sniff of your problem. He/ She might have a better solution or might even agree with some of the suggestions that you have been given. Where at in Ohio do you live? I will TRY to get a name of a reputable dealer for you. No promises though. ;)

[Fightfan]

I live in Dayton. The problem with both of the main Chevy dealers here is that they charge more than a premium for anything. That includes advice. I tried that route with the service center. they said they don't discuss problems and solutions over the phone and that they didn't give free advice. I had my alternator tested last night and it was bad. It has a dead spot in it. It will charge and then stop and the diode is bad. I'm going to get a new one and see what problem crops up next. Maybe I'll get lucky and get nickle and dimed right into the poor house.

[Fightfan]

Along with replacing my alternator, I am replacing the batteries, too. I don't want to take a chance with something going horribly wrong a month from now. I am upgrading to the 145 amp alternator and two red top Optima batteries with 800 cold cranking amps a piece. It may be overkill, but I hate being stranded. And if I have to get a jump start from another Ford, I'm going to light the truck on fire. That was straight out embarrassing. Any thoughts? On the fix, not the jump start.

[1blubyu]

I had an '01 LB7 and I had the exact same problem as you. I asked a friend of mine who is ASE certified and the first thing he said was to check the batteries. Sure enough, one was leaking so I changed it out. The problem went away for about two years and the same side battery started smelling again. I changed it out and the smell wasn't there anymore. I then sold the truck so I didn't get a chance to check the alternator.

[Hotwater]

Try here.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256698

[Duramaster]

Hey FIGHTFAN, are you near a dealer that is / was named VOSS Chevrolet? Our local field engineer used to call on dealers out your way. That was 12 - 15 years ago though. Things do change of course. :)

[carco]

Go to ACDelco website and look up nearest Delco TSS shop. Call them, talk to them, most do a real good job, however like dealers, some skate by. The TSS shops that care take a lot of GM training some the same as dealer some a Delco version. Find a good independent shop and ditch the dealer!!! bob...........