chev diesel truck wont start

[gencover]

i have a 2003 2500hd duramax diesel truck that will not start. any suggestions? also i would like to know where the glow plugs are and the glow plug controller are located? thanks for the help

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Unless you are in a sub-freezing climate, the glow plugs, working or not, won't prevent starting. The LB7 Duramax will start easily w/o glow plugs well below freezing temps. Below the point you would have issues with summer grade #2 fuel.

To answer your question, the plugs are located on the outboard side of the heads, threaded horizontal and square into the head. If you look in through the wheel opening, you should have a clear view of them (w/o obstructions). They will be the small studs sticking out, with either a wire eyelet connector attached (CA smog models), or a gang buss bar attached (Federal smog). The controller is located above and rearward of the driver side valve cover. Unless you are seeing the SES (Service Engine Soon) lamp, or are having lots of smoke at cold startup, they're not an issue at this point.

A little info on your no-start issue would be helpful. What happened before it didn't start? What service did you do, run out of fuel, etc? In most cases, it is a loss of fuel pump prime, and it needs to be primed. You can do this by pumping the primer on top of the fuel filter assy. It will be the vertical cylindrical plunger, about 1.5" diameter. Pump it full strokes until it becomes very hard to push. Depending on how much air is in the system, it can take 10, 20, or even more than 100 pumps. It could be something other this causing the no-start, but start here and report back with your results and more information.

[grassy]

You can do this by pumping the primer on top of the fuel filter assy. It will be the vertical cylindrical plunger, about 1.5" diameter. Pump it full strokes until it becomes very hard to push. Depending on how much air is in the system, it can take 10, 20, or even more than 100 pumps. It could be something other this causing the no-start, but start here and report back with your results and more information.

Do you open the bleed screw before pumping..or pump plunger till hard??

[DmaxMaverick]

I don't suggest pumping with the bleeder open. You will only get about 50% efficiency of the pump (kinda' important to your thumb at 50-100 pumps). If you want to bleed the air, pump it 10-20 times, then bleed the air between cycles, closing it for the next set. Don't open it again once you get fuel at the bleeder, then just pump it up hard (should only be a few strokes now). There's really no starting advantage to it, unless, like me, you don't see the sense in ramming all that air through the pump and injectors.

Be very careful with that plastic bleeder screw. Once it breaks, you're stuck (engine won't run w/o it). It isn't a common thread (good luck at the hardware store). I have a SS replacement screw (www.lubricationspecialist.com), but don't use it any more. I installed a bleeder valve with tubing (also available from the above website...I hate messy fuel spills).