View Full Version : Batterys and Battery Gauges
Hey Guys! been awhile since I posted but I have some questions. I checked old posts but really never got a answer. Truck has been running fine for sometime now but, the other day it was a slower that normal crank starting then another time slow crank and then no start; batterys. No problem. One lose connention, and cleaned the posts and cables, new post screws and away she went gauge reading just over 14.0v. Started fine. Yesterday went to start it slower crank than normal and now the gauge reads just 10.0-11.0 volts. All electrical fine. The batteries are 3.5 years old and the alternator is 5 years old. I do believe cables original. I will do a volt test tonight but, here are my questions.
What does the battery gauge in the truck actually read?
If I do replace cables go with oem? Easy to change any tricks?
How long you guys been getting out of batteries?
Should I try to trickle charge before replacing batteries?
Any insite from you guys would be great, cause winter is coming soon!!!!
JoeX87000031
10-07-2008, 12:45
I just took my battery cables off last night, not to awful bad. I would say the biggest pain was the starter connection, even then not that bad. Get this though, my power cable that goes to the junction block on the firewall was a HUGE pain. I think somebody messed this up before me, but they had that wire going down past the starter through the exaust and up the back of the engine. Why not just go from the battery term along the fender to the terminal block? Thats how I am going to do it, don't care if its OEM. I am also going to have them change my battery terminals to top post type, I can see no clearance issues, just having the shop add 6" to each cable for plenty of room to go up onto the top of the battery. My batteries are 6 years old, running strong, going to replace them anyways. Hope this helps a little TTM, take care.
Also.. You can get to the starter connection through the wheelwell, makes it easier.
Thanks for the cable advice Joe. I'm going to do that next. Tonight, I disconnected the cables cleaned, wire brushed all the connectors ( again ) and looked over the cables themselves and tested the batteries. Both batteries at 12 volts. Cables seemed to be good condition. Hooked up the cables and started the truck, 14.0 volts on the gauge on the cluster. All good. So.... looks like one post was loose passenger side...So... the gauge reads battery voltage only not alternator output. Okay that makes sense. Now, I reefed the side posts tight; stupid tight, with the passenger side positive being the worst. They are not moving. That in my mind seems a bit much. Is there some way to convert the positive on the passenger side connector to the top post would be a much better cleaner connection and easier to deal with.
1. If the connection keeps coming loose, the feral in side the battery is loose.
2. Do a search on battery connections, there is a fix where the battery bolts are replaced
With standard bolts and a nut ( jam nut ) to tighten the connections.
3. Sometimes it helps to remove the rubber stuff around connections.
4. There are notches in the cable connection and battery, they need to be aligned.
Of course you knew this...
5. I Have a Digital Voltmeter, wired through a rotary sw, Both batterys have a screw
into the side of the battery hump where the cables connect, This reads internal battery
voltage, Can read Voltage of each battery , diagnostic aid,
( I now , overkill, I like gages ) This started out as a project to insure that the TC and
Aux batteries were charging, got carried away
JoeX87000031
10-08-2008, 22:24
Here are some pics of the modified battery side posts, worked great, 100% inprovement. My truck used to need a jump after a week of sitting, now she fires up even after a month. Also, the new modified battery cables will be done Friday, quoted less than $100 up here in Anchorage, got to be cheaper elseware.
All this mod takes is a three 3/8" diameter 16 thread count 9/16" I think 1 inch in length and one a little longer at 1.5" bolts, all with nuts and flat washers. Finger tighten the bolt, strip the plastic off the cable ends, and run down the nuts as tight as ever.
NOT MY IDEA, BUT A REALLY REALLY GOOD one.
take care all.
Now that looks like a better idea, The truck is starting fine now and reading 14.4 volts but I will do that this weekend. (it's our thanksgiving weekend ) so lots of time to change over. I guess it would be a good idea to service the batteries when I change oil and do a lube.
Thanks for the pics and the advice Joe and rj.
This was covered in a feature article on the web site many years back. Members can access it here. (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/batterm.htm)
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