View Full Version : How to wire aftermarket lights on my nerf bars
lmholmes11
09-15-2008, 17:49
Hey guys,
I am thinking of adding some LED marker lights on my Westin Nerf Bars. However, since i am no electrical engineer, i was wondering if anyone could give me some info or suggestions on how to wire the lights to the trucks electrical system. Thanks!
Here are the lights i am looking at getting..
http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/moc.htm
lmholmes11
09-15-2008, 18:21
I forgot to meantion, I have done searches on the forum for this, but nothing has really helped me..thanks!
DmaxMaverick
09-15-2008, 19:42
I've never done one of these, but it isn't rocket science. On the 2001, you have courtesy lamps at both front floors (works with the dome lamp). I'd tap power there. Check the power requirements for your aftermarket lamps to be sure the circuit can handle the additional demand (shouldn't be a problem). If it is too much for the circuit, use a relay and run power from the fuse box (a end of driver side dash) or power junction (behind the E-brake pedal). Under the rocker trim, there's plenty of room to run a harness for the wires. You can drill though it and run the wires out, and underneath (well hidden). I've done this for a couple add-ons, including airbag harnesses. Easy to do it clean and sealed.
lmholmes11
09-17-2008, 07:08
those lights that i was looking at draw " Current Draw: 0.024 Amp (24ma) @ 12 VDC" and I plan on putting two of them on each side. These LED lamps use a PL-2s plug also. When you say "tap" in power there, do you mean connect them to the fuse box, or just splice it in?
Thanks for the reply
DmaxMaverick
09-17-2008, 08:35
The "tap" could be either. Your choice. I splice into the harness at the back of the fuse panel. Solder (preferred) or crimp. Stay away from the "scotch lock" type splicers. They are common, but lead to problems later with corrosion and loss of contact. At 24 mA, you shouldn't have a problem with any circuit. I suggest using the courtesy lamp circuit at the harness that leads to the ctsy lamps at either side. I recommend you install independent inline fuses to the lamps (near where you splice into the circuit), as the lamps and wires are out in the elements. A .25 or .5 amp fuse, each side, would be fine.
lmholmes11
09-17-2008, 11:27
The only splicing i've ever done is to just remove the plastic covering on a part of the wire and wrapping the wire around another wire, and wraping electrical tape around it..haha Not very professional. I've seen a few plastic devices that you connect two wires in, while splicing. Is something like this necessary?
lmholmes11
09-17-2008, 11:29
sorry about that, i just looked up Scotch Locks, and that was exactly what you were talking about..haha oops!
DmaxMaverick
09-17-2008, 12:55
Given the 2 options you mention, as much as I dislike Scotch Locks, use the Scotch Locks. Even a wire nut would be better than just twisting the wires together. That's asking for a fire. Solder is ideal, and easy. Strip the wires as you described, then solder them instead of twisting. I always "tin" the wire ends (heat and apply solder to just the wire, to be sure it will wick-in) before attempting to solder them together. It'll be permanent and reliable, and the solder will usually melt before a fire starts if there's a short. Crimp splices and gangs (crimp cuffs similar to wire nuts) are my second choice. If you don't have solder experience (or don't want any), I suggest crimping.
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