Electrical Problem no cranking

[balloonbld]

I've got a 97 6.5 td that I've had since new with 310k on it and for the most part had been great, But...
I've had to replace the batteries on average about every 2 years, I've had 4 or 5 alternators in it and over the years have had continual problems with the battery connections coming loose. I only have factory installed items on the truck now (the lift gate is disconnected now). With the loose connections I would notice this when the battery level inside the truck would fall low or when I would go to start the truck the glow plugs would cycle on and off and then I would go to start the truck and I would just hear a click no cranking. Whenever this would happen I would just go and check wires to the batteries and tighten and the truck would start right up.
Went to start the truck yesterday afternoon and after the glows would cycle went to start and just a click but no cranking. All the cables are clean and today I replaced both batteries and bolts and all connections are tight. I even charged both batteries still nothing. The altimeter guage shows a low amount of power avaliable even with the battery charger connected with a 60 amp boost.
Any ideas,
Thanks Joe

[simon]

Sounds like you might still have batt cable connection trouble. check for swelling of the cable behind the terminals,if there is some,I would peel some cable insulation back right behind the terminals on both ends of al cables anyway, if corrosion is present,change the cable,and clean the ground connections on the engine as well. 1 bad conn is enough to get your problem.
change your batt bolts to 1"x5/16 hexbolts with a nut run up the bolt,screw bolt tight in the batt,then tighten the nut against the terminals,this will better hold the cables tight.

by lift gate,do you mean turbo wastegate?

[balloonbld]

The lift gate I was talking about was the tail gate on the back of the truck that you use to get heavy items into the bed of the truck. As for the connections to the batteries your method is a great idea. I'll give it a shot. But the batteries, bolts are all new as of yesterday and none of the cables have any corrosion on them. Any other ideas to try.
Thanks for the help,
I'm at my wits end!

[simon]

The lift gate I was talking about was the tail gate on the back of the truck that you use to get heavy items into the bed of the truck. As for the connections to the batteries your method is a great idea. I'll give it a shot. But the batteries, bolts are all new as of yesterday and none of the cables have any corrosion on them. Any other ideas to try.
Thanks for the help,
I'm at my wits end!corrosion may not be visable on the terminals, it is a common problem on these trucks to have corrosion inside the copper core where the terminals are crimped on.

if you are absolutely sure the cables will carry the current to the starter, then the starter motor itself has problems,maby the solenoid contacts are burned, creating a start no start situation, or the brushes are worn.That wiil usually cause low crankspeed as well. How is the batt connection at the starter,did you check?? you can do that trough the rubber flap in the inner fender.

I still vote for the cables. I found them the culprit in a good number of cases similair to yours.

new full batt + good cables + good starter + 12 v to activate the solenoid = sure start.

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
I agree on the cables, I just bought a 96 6.5.I did want to start it befor i paip for it.I was at the guys house with my fuel truck when i bought it so i figered i would boost it with my truck,it's got 3 1100 amp truck batterys in it,and i carry a big set of booster cables.I hooked the ground to the engin and the pos to the drivers battery,this was as close as i could get with a tandem truck.The 96 turned over slowly,and after about 3 attempts the cables were getting hot,and there was green slime bubbling out of the pos cable on the 96.Towed the truck to my shop,striped the rubber ends off the cables,cut the drivers side end off the cable about 2" to get to clean wire.Put on a el cheepo battery terminal grabed two batterys out of my shop,installed with bolts and clean terminals.Two trys and the 6.5 chugged to life,was sitting for 2 yrs.
But it did have a new starter,so i was pretty sure it was a battery problem.
I'm quessing that the corroded cable is the resone for the new starter,after crawling around it looks like a new flywheel was put in too.They even repaced the starter bracket.
Good Luck Thomas

[balloonbld]

I've started working on the cable that goes down to the starter. Having trouble... I've removed the passinger tire and the wheel cowling. I can't get to the end of the cable yet so I have started to remove the starter to see if I can get to the cable connection. Got the two bolts off can't see the forward bracket to remove that. Tried to put the bolts back in and they dont catch. Any ideas out there. I've looked at lots of postings here and am getting frustrated especially when I see some postings where you guys have R&R'd the starters in half an hour. :(Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Joe

[derekja]

Yeah, the front bracket can be a pain to get to. Should be able to see it from the side, though, particularly with the wheel cowling off. Try a little mirror maybe? It'll be easier the second time! (I had my starter on and off at least a half dozen times when I was convinced it was at fault - turned out to be a ground issue...)

If the starter bolts don't catch then you're probably best off taking the starter the rest of the way off and seeing if the threads are damaged.

Whatever you do, don't get the front bracket off and then not put it back on! Not having threads catch is nowhere near as disastrous as having those bolts snap off and then having to fight to remove them. Tapping is easier than drilling and cursing and tapping.

Keep at it, no magic tricks I'm afraid.

BTW. once you do get it off, a lot of the auto parts stores have load testers that can bench test the starter.

[balloonbld]

Thanks for the encourgament. Later this am when the stores open up I'll go and get some cleaner to spray to remove the oil and gunk around the starter and get back in there.
Thanks,
Joe

[simon]

reason for not able to reinstall starterbolts is misalinement cause little bracket [top front of starter],[PUT the critter back on] is still tight,preventing some wriggle room.
cross treading long bolts is near impossible,first cm of bolthole is not treaded.

after R&R a couple of starters you'l get the hang of it,there's a learning curve.