rpm up down , @ idle when cold + codes

[ktobin]

Oh my !I'm starting to look for a slege hammer.
After working like a dog to change the injectors & instead of improving I've run into more problems.After i changed and bleed the injectors on the turbo side. I decided to idle the truck before changing them on the drivers side. I don't think this present problem has to do with the change. Anyway here is what i've found. When the truck is started cold it is very rough, shaking and quite smokey with RPM from 400 to 800. If i let it run for a minuite i will get codes 32 EGR
and cylinder imbalance 91 92 96 .Now here is the weird thing.If i unplug the temp sensor on top front of engine while it is cold and shaking etc. the engine smooths right out and is steady @1000 rpm. When the engine warms up a bit and i plug t.sensor back in ,the engine is as smooth as can be and idles @ 700 with no smoke or hesitation or no codes of any kind. I replaced the sensor with a new one and still acts the same.Any direction would be greatly appreciated.The truck is a 95 6.5T for Troubles. Thanks!

[MTTwister]

Cut in a switch to those 2 wires? :D
I'm gonna go eat dinner. good Luck

[ktobin]

No doubt! But I have to try and find out why?

[whatnot]

Are you sure you got the injector lines tight enough?
WHen I changed my injector pump, a couple of the hard to get at nut weren't tight enough and came loose. It started running rough and gave some of the 9x codes.

[ktobin]

I'm pretty sure. but i'll check again. I wonder is it air somewhere. I just can't understand why the engine runs so well with the engine temp. sensor unplugged when cold and plugged back in when hot. The truck was working fine before I changed the injectors. I guess I should have left well enough alone.

[gmctd]

EGR is probably a plastic vacuum line disturbed\split\broken.

Removing the Temp sensor advances inj timing and idle speed to max.

PCM can vary inj to each cylinder at idle for smoother idle, as when ac is on.
Cyl Balance DTC's mean those cylinders are not responding, possible air in lines, or leaks causing fuel loss.

Try bleeding the injectors again.

[ktobin]

I started the truck this morning with the temp sensor pluged in and the truck idled perfect with no codes all the way to up normal temp. This rules out a lot of things and now I'm certain that it is intermittant problem.I didn't touch a thing and i let the truck cool down for a couple of hours ,started it up and sure enough the same problem was there again. I pulled off the temp. sensor wire right away ,let the truck warm up put it back on ,perfect I drove it like mad and when i went into a pothole the temp guage needle bounced from one extreme to the next.I hit a couple of more good holes and each time the needle went wild. I discovered a braided ground wire that connects the chassis to the firewall below the heater hoses was just about rotted off. I changed this wire, almost impossible with the fender well on . Started the truck running fine. I'm waiting for it too cool down again to see if it acts up. Hard to belive that this ground wire is the problem. I'm praying this is it. I'll let you know.
Thanks!

[ktobin]

Started the truck 1/2 dozen times when cold with the temp sensor plugged in so far so good .Seems like the ground wire might of been it.

Thanks!

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

For a weird ground wire problem solved, read (if you've got lots of time) DTC 35 - Help! (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004386#000000) (Click in colored text.)

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

[Don Boland]

I have had this same problem off and on since replacing injectors and glow plugs over a year ago. What is odd for me is that when I am at my place up in the Wallowas (4000 ft), It starts like crap consistently unless I pull the CTS plug. At home (about 1100 ft or less, it generally starts pretty well but occasionally stumbles. The advance is always almost non-existent when it starts poorly. What is also odd is that occasionally, I have started it warm and had the pump advance and a long glow cycle, which is really wierd. I keep thinking it is electrical or PCM related but just keep dealing with it since the fix to getting it to start is simple although a PITA. I've pulled the ground straps, cleaned and re-seated on the passenger side with little difference, so I keep plugging away. Also wired in a switch to break the connection to the CTS but never got it to work right. Always seemed to stay advanced so disconnected it and haven't messed with it. Such fun. Never a problem till new injectors and the 60G's.

[ktobin]

Imagine that! I guess i will wire in a switch in case it acts up again . I wonder if the throttle position sensor on pedal has anything to do with your no cold advance.