Is this smoke ok???

[brighty]

Hi everyone.... newbie here...

I've done the search thing and come up with alot of info... but just wondering what peoples thoughts are on the amount and colour of smoke I get when starting my 6.2. It's a bit hard getting good info on these engines over here in Australia!!

I've had this motor dropped into an HJ60 body which I chopped down into a ute for the past 4 years. It's always ran so smoothly in the past but over the last year or so, it's been suffering from quite a bit of smoke on starting and also when putting my foot down... mainly because I feel it just doesn't have the power it used to when I first got it. It still runs ok when warm but god is it smokey on starting.... I actually have to push it out of the garage and close the door so it doesn't fill with smoke!!!

I must admit I don't usually drive it like a granny, but in the past few months I've just been taking it easy on the old girl as I really can't afford to rebuild it right now. here is two links to small clips I took of it this morning when I started it up..... the sound's not quite right as I only have a dodgy old 3.2 megapixel camera to get the footage with.

Smokey on start up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtAnnIiBoJg

Just giving it a rev after about 2-3mins of idle running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Odo7FiMWiU

And a pic of my truck

http://www.offroadimages.com.au/4x4events2006/displayimage.php?album=796&pos=82
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/brighty4wd/The%2060%20Chop/Tteute004.jpg

[Robyn]

Hey Mate
Toss a set of injectors in the little creature along with a set of good fresh glow plugs and the little critter will most likely run sweet again and pick up some power and MPG.

The pop pressure and the spray pattern of the injectors has likley gone in the toilet of the last many miles.

If the pop pressure drops too far the things drool instead of spraying a nice fine mist.
Glow plugs that are not up to spec will cause some smoke too.

I listened and looked at the video. The little beast sounds ok.

Best

Robyn

[Robyn]

Definately try a set of injectors.

Best

RC

[DmaxMaverick]

A new set of injectors won't hurt, but is sure sounds and looks like air starvation. How's your air filter? Could you have a collapsed air duct?

[brighty]

Ok, thanks for the replies. Will look into them asap and keep you posted on how it goes afterwards.

On another note, I've just bought a top mounted turbo kit, albeit 2nd hand from the US. It consisted of turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds & inj pump. So pretty much what I need to put it all together at some point in the not too distant future. I know I'll have to get the turbo looked at & checked so it is working fine, or if it needs rebuilding. But I've only had the new inj pump on it for about 12mths as I broke the main shaft in the last one. Is the pump I got on it any good to suit the turbo when I bolt it on, will need to be adjusted up of course.

But what else should I be looking for in the engine's health aspects to ensure I don't just bolt it on and blow her up???

Thanks again,
Brighty.

[Subzilla]

And do you change the fuel filter on a regular basis? A clog fuel filter can cause some weird behaviors.

Turbo - check for healthy compression and if the engine is old, you may want to replace the head gaskets before you add the extra blown air.

[brighty]

A bit more info on the engine I got..... at running temps, I get about 40-45PSI oil pressure, is this within range or a bit on the low side??? What sort of compression should I be looking for in each cylinder.... eg what's good, average and bad PSI's???

I know it's got 6.5 heads on it, so what type of injectors are best to use??? Brand, type etc?? And as I'm going to bolt the turbo up at some point, would like to get the best out of it f possible. Would I be smart in getting the heads ports and polished, reco'd etc while I'm at it???

I have no idea if this engine came out of a C or J series truck, or what year model it is. Is there any way of working this out by using the engine No??? Sorry for all the questions, but like I said in my original post we don't get much info on these engines here in Australia, and when trying to order parts over the phone or online it makes it even more difficult when you can't state what model or year it came from.

Thanks,
Brighty.

[DmaxMaverick]

Oil pressure sounds fine.

Your compression should be 300-400 PSI. More importantly, all cylinders should be within 10-15% percent of each other. One or two cylinders significantly lower than the others indicates a cylinder problem. If they are all low, but within the margin, it indicates a worn engine, or a problem common to all effected cylinders or bank.

The engine series (C/J) is not real important. Differences can be heads, precups, smog equipment and accessories. The engine long block is the same, either way.

Injector preferences vary widely. New Bosch or Delco are always good. Reman's depend on the seller/supplier.

[brighty]

Oil pressure sounds fine.

Your compression should be 300-400 PSI. More importantly, all cylinders should be within 10-15% percent of each other. One or two cylinders significantly lower than the others indicates a cylinder problem. If they are all low, but within the margin, it indicates a worn engine, or a problem common to all effected cylinders or bank.

The engine series (C/J) is not real important. Differences can be heads, precups, smog equipment and accessories. The engine long block is the same, either way.

Injector preferences vary widely. New Bosch or Delco are always good. Reman's depend on the seller/supplier.

Thanks Dmax,
Will be looking at getting stuck into checking the old girl out soon with cylinder compressions etc. What's the rough price each for new bosch or delco injectors??

Do you guys have a recommended list of suppliers that are reputable and trustworthy in the products they sell. I'm looking for a place that sells parts online and ships to Australia but one that I can trust to not sell me crap.

Thanks, Brighty.

[DmaxMaverick]

Several TDP Supporters (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm) have what you need at good prices. Some ship out of country, but I don't know which and can't speak for them. Kennedy sent some stuff to the Netherlands recently, so he might be a good starting point. Good reman's should cost $30-40 USD, each. A good remanufactured injector is as good as new, IMO. Some are better than new, as the supplier will many times get them more consistent as a set. I do not recommend shopping Ebay for "high performance" or "marine" injectors. More often than not, you won't get what is advertised.

Another option is to source the parts and build/test them yourself. A home-made tester is not difficult to build, and should be inexpensive. Most of the time, a set of new nozzles and some pressure adjustment (new springs or shims) is all that is needed to get them to "new" spec. The internals are surprisingly long lived and rarely need replacement. If the injectors just have a lot of time/miles on them, most often a set of nozzles will be all that's needed. Most of the time, old injectors pop fine, but have a poor spray pattern (worn nozzles).

[67_C-30]

I had 91 6.2 C3500 service truck that started and ran fine until one of my helpers ran it hot after busting the lower radiator hose (don't get me started on that:mad:;)) and cracked a head. I had a 6.5TD laying there with with a broken crank, so I robbed the heads off of it bought a set of gaskets and bolts and put it back together. It ran great when it got warm, but it smoked when cold - even worse than your's. The engine started no smoke the week before. I ended having to get a some Wellman Fast Heats from SS Diesel (60g's would be too) and put a manual glow plug controller on it. The factory glow cycle wouldn't get the precups warm enough, and smoked badly when cold. I had to hold it for 8-10 seconds in warm weather and 12-15 in 30 or colder. After I did that, the smoke went away. The 6.5TD heads lower the CR a little when put on a 6.2L and its just enough to effect startup.