Rear A/C Lines fix, DmaxMaverick?

[DieselDavey]

Hello again,

This summer has full of its share of problems for the Burb.

Now the rear A/C lines are leaking, as well as the rear Aux. evaporator.

I did many searches here, seems I read a post replied to by DMAX that the rubber can be replaced, and the aluminum lines can be tig welded. There was a link in the post that is now dead.

What has the rest of you done?

The lines from the dealer are $300.00 a piece. Damn!

I found ACKITS.com, they have no answers. I also found a site that sells a compression fitting...

Help!

Thanks!

[DmaxMaverick]

It's as easy to explain what I posted as to dig up the thread.

I suggested replacing the rubber hoses with new properly rated hose, and use Aeroquip type fittings to connect them to the aluminum lines. The lines can easily be flared (double-flared) to accept the Aeroquip fittings. The repair should be permanent. www.summitracing.com and other sources will have all the materials needed. You can get a tubing flare tool (with instructions, if you've never done it) at one of the big-box hardware stores, independent hardware stores, Harbor Freight, Sears, ag stores, etc. You can also have a machine shop, tractor/ag shop or some Napa stores do the flaring for you for cheap.

[Jrgicehc]

If you are anywhere near me (Madison CT); I work at an AC shop and with those systems we can splice the portion of the line out that is leaking. We have compression connectors that we use with a new aluminum pipe. The compression connectors are good to 3000psi they were originally designed for aerospace stuff but we use them all the time with very good results.

[DieselDavey]

Thanks guys,

Would anyone know the diameter of the tubing?

I'm going to try to splice out the leaking portions of tubing.

[DmaxMaverick]

If you are anywhere near me (Madison CT); I work at an AC shop and with those systems we can splice the portion of the line out that is leaking. We have compression connectors that we use with a new aluminum pipe. The compression connectors are good to 3000psi they were originally designed for aerospace stuff but we use them all the time with very good results.

I do not recommend using compression fittings on an automotive A/C system. The aluminum lines are too soft. The "3000 PSI" compression fittings (AKA: MS fittings in the aircraft industry and military) are rated at 3000 PSI, but only if used with the proper line. They are rated at 3000 PSI on SS lines, 1500 PSI on 6061T6 aluminum, and 500 PSI on 5052 aluminum. They are NEVER used on critical high pressure systems. 1960-70's Vought aircraft were notorious for hydraulic, fuel, and pneumatic line failure due to widespread use of these fittings. Easy to repair, but unreliable. The aluminum on your A/C system is softer than 5052, and the compression fittings are rated at about 150 PSI on this line. They may be working for you, but are not designed for this, and are operating very near the operating failure limit (which is generally twice the operational rating). Vibration and heat cycling will cause them to fail at some point. The problem isn't the fittings, but the line you are using them on.

A flared or swaged coupling is the only reliable method. Flaring is simple, and works well on the soft aluminum A/C lines. Swaging is good, but requires equipment most folks don't have.

[Jrgicehc]

I do not recommend using compression fittings on an automotive A/C system. The aluminum lines are too soft. The "3000 PSI" compression fittings (AKA: MS fittings in the aircraft industry and military) are rated at 3000 PSI, but only if used with the proper line. They are rated at 3000 PSI on SS lines, 1500 PSI on 6061T6 aluminum, and 500 PSI on 5052 aluminum. They are NEVER used on critical high pressure systems. 1960-70's Vought aircraft were notorious for hydraulic, fuel, and pneumatic line failure due to widespread use of these fittings. Easy to repair, but unreliable. The aluminum on your A/C system is softer than 5052, and the compression fittings are rated at about 150 PSI on this line. They may be working for you, but are not designed for this, and are operating very near the operating failure limit (which is generally twice the operational rating). Vibration and heat cycling will cause them to fail at some point. The problem isn't the fittings, but the line you are using them on.

A flared or swaged coupling is the only reliable method. Flaring is simple, and works well on the soft aluminum A/C lines. Swaging is good, but requires equipment most folks don't have.

we have been doing this for about 5 years now (before I was an employee) and have had 1 come back with a leak at the splices we put in. the local chevrolet dealer was even sending their work to us last summer when the lines for the newer burbs were on national back order. We have done well over 100 of these with those fittings. It might not work in theory but it works in practice.

[DieselDavey]

Thanks guys,

I will do whatever works the best, I don't mind flaring the tubing...

I still need to know the diameter of the tubing to purchase the correct parts...

Also... one major leak is behind the passenger side fender. Looks like I need to remove the fender to get to it. I can see the leak, but I can't get to it for repairs. Any advise on removing the fender? Is it a major PITA (I'm finding most things with the Burb are...).

The other major leak is in a fitting under the Aux. Evaporator. Looks like I might be able to clean it up and tighten it.

Thanks guys. I don't have the cash for a shop to do this work, and I'm relying on ya. Everything is much appreciated!

[DieselDavey]

I'm fed up with this thing.

Off to the friggen shop to have the rear lines plugged.

I don't know what size tubing and fittings to order, and taking that fender off looks to be a pretty big project.

If I really miss the rear AC, I'll figure a way to run high pressure hose to a new rear evaporator.

I've tried twice this summer to use this vehicle for a camping trip... only to have it break down at the last minute and sit in the driveway while I use my F150 to pull my camper.

I'm outta time once again calling shops, researching on the net, asking questions here (and thanks for all of your help!). I go up North Friday.

[bl78ljb]

Just curious what you ended up doing?

Also, where are you located?

I have had the same problem with my 'burb. I did take it to a local AC shop and the temporary fix that worked most of the summer stopped while we were on a road trip at the end of July and I had to charge the system about twice a week. I was told that the steel nuts are fused to the AC lines and that all of the tubing in the system needs to be replaced because none of the nuts will turn and thus all the fittings will strip. If one can really just flare the lines and replace it with a high pressure hose or something similar that would be great. Has anyone done this?