Advice Needed

[richp]

Hi,

So suppose a guy with 160k miles on an otherwise pretty good K-2500 decided he wanted to do some preventative work that would increase his probability of getting to 250-300K without breaking down on the road somewhere between Geneva, IL and Flagstaff or Moab -- a route he does on a pretty regular basis.

Since (after talking to the dealer again today) it doesn't look like I'm going to make the deal on that new truck I'm lusting after, I'm thinking about a preemptive strike. Commit to keeping this truck for another 3-5 years. Spend several thousand now and reduce my anxiety level on the road with my trailer. In short, get out of the way anything big that might cause me to rely on a mechanic of unknown skills in some back corner of the intermountain West.

More info. Tranny and all fluids services regularly, and all but the engine are on synthetics. Shifts good. No smoke. Turbo sounds good. Injectors done at 95k. Alternator at 150k. Outstanding fuel economy, both empty and towing. Other odds and ends replaced as needed, but no serious problems on a virtually stock truck (OK, I do run an old Edge, but drive very lightly.)

I already talked to my dealer's service guy for a reality check - pricing for him to replace the front hubs, do a transfer case R&R, u-joints, and replace the pump (all still original after at least 80-85K of those 160 k miles towing a 12,500# fifth wheel). Those were the things that seemed to me and them to be the most likely to go next, but at some unknown interval.

So Jim, Mark, and DmaxMaverick, and all you guys with lots of miles and lots of exposure to the '01 series of trucks, what would you recommend I consider? Setting aside the injectors and the Allison itself, what do you think would be a likely candidate for replacement now instead of almost surely in another 10-20k?

Thanks for the advice.

Rich Phillips
Member #27

[Mark Rinker]

My 2002 got a new transfer case at about 170K or so, after developing the dreaded leak and hole, which ran it dry. Funny thing is, it still worked, just lost 4WD as the first symptom. Not a noise, no issues, but nary a single drop of fluid came out, according to my mechanic. :(

If 'replacing the pump' means the Allison fluid pump, I'd pass based on the maintenance free miles on my 2002, besides a ~7 quart 'partial drain and refresh' with spin-on filter every other oil change, or 20K miles. My feeling is the tranny will be ready for more, when the engine, rear gears, or more have given up the ghost.

You didn't mention anything about maintenance that has been done previously on:

U-Joints
Shocks
Rear axle seals
Brakes (calipers, rotors, pads)U-joints can be a trip wrecker while towing and there is no reason to wait until they fail to address them. Same with ball joints, tie-rod ends, pitman arms, etc. If they have significant endplay and are the original factory peice, its time to replace - or put them on the list for replacement soon in order of importance.

Good shocks are also easy to overlook with these trucks, I think keeping them fresh (most common brands are shot within 60-80K miles of moderate towing/offroading, OEMs way before that...) may be why I am getting great miles out of front hubs and driveline u-joints. If things aren't harmonic and/or vibrating going down the road, spinning componants last longer, right? (I just did all 4 on the 2006 K3500 at 77K and wish I had done them 30K miles ago...its like a new truck again, and I didn't even notice how bad the ride was gone...!)

With labor rates skyrocketing, I like to address whole and related systems at one visit - i.e. for instance if your rear brake pads are close, you are still on factory OEM or cheap NAPA knockoff rotors, and one rear seal is starting to weep a little - do both rear seals, aftermarket quality HD rotors/new calipers/ceramic pads all at once and get the rear end squared away for another 150K with one ceramic pad change at 70-80K.

You mentioned a new alternator - how old are your batteries?

[More Power]

Everything Mark said.... ;)

I would add that we need to lube the door hinges at least as often as the chassis. I use the spray chain lube used by motorcycle owners. If the doors don't shut like they used to, replace the hinge components.

A lot of what makes vehicle owners think about trading an otherwise good truck are the little things.... The new trucks are shiny, clean and crisp looking, where an older truck eventually begins looking a little rough around the edges.

A day or two spent cleaning, polishing and detailing can do wonders to regain owner appreciation for an older truck. Carpet can be replaced for a lot less than you think. Buffing the paint can be done at home, or it can be done at a body shop for not a lot. A little wax and plastic treatments (like Armorall) can make an older truck look a lot newer. Use one of the tire treatments that make the tires black & shiny.

Add any accessories that you've always wanted, but always put them off.

The engine and transmission will last for much longer than most people know. Just keep up with the wear items, as Mark mentioned, as well as the little things mentioned here. The money you save by not buying a new truck will buy a helluva lot of diesel fuel.

Jim

[richp]

Hi Mark and Jim,

I'm told it would be $900 to R&R the transfer case -- I think getting that done under controlled circumstances is a good move, given the known problem with those cases.

I meant the high pressure fuel pump, Mark. That's a big ticket item to replace when it's working fine, but....

Like you, I'm not much worried about the Allison itself. I've had it maintained regularly, and I think it's strong as an ox.

I'd have the u-joints done when the transfer case is out -- they're original and still solid, but I've never had a vehicle go this long on factory units.

Rear axle seals are one I haven't thought of. I'll check and see if when they did the rear pinion last year if they replaced the seals.

Brakes have been done, as have ball joints and tie rod ends.

Bilsteins with 100k on them -- yeah, I probably ought to....

Batteries are a couple of years old. Five years on the stock batteries and I just did it so I wouldn't have to worry going into a winter. I did the alternator last fall at 150k because I'd never had one last that long, and couldn't stand the tension -- the one I took out was still working fine.

Thanks for the good ideas, both of you.

Rich

[Mark Rinker]

I just did factory alternator and replaced factory Delco's last fall on the 2002 - at ~240K miles!

Forgot to mention the rear pinion seal. Thats been done twice - the first replacment didn't last long, and a slight rear end whine (that I had mistakenly attributed to aging rear gears) disappeared completely as well when the rear yoke was replaced.

Bilsteins have a great reputation for longevity - you might pull them and check against a set of new before replacing.

[DmaxMaverick]

Looks like a good start to your list. I'll add:

Acc. belt, idlers, and tensioner. At the very least, have the belt and parts with you when you travel. They can be replaced easily with minimal tools. Box end wrenches or sockets for the idler/tensioner bolts, and for springing the tensioner.

Coolant system flush/service.

Clean the cooling stack. Leaves, bugs, dirt and debris will collect between them and compromise the cooling capacity. A/C will work better, too.

Inspect the PS and hydroboost units and hoses. Any line seepage can turn into a leak in a hurry. Very slight seepage at the hydroboost unit seems to be normal, but a drip should be addressed. These system(s) will work until they don't. No need to replace unless a problem comes up.

Flush/fill/bleed the brake system. A very often neglected system

On the Bilsteins....
They should have a lifetime warranty (non commercial). Test them, and if bad, replace at no cost to you. I haven't heard of any "wearing out", yet.

The U-joints....
Replacements are just as likely to fail as the originals, if the originals are still good. They work until they don't. If they show no sign of play, leave them. They are a very common part, and can be had just about anywhere. Or, carry a pair with you. Not at all difficult to replace.

And the transfer case....
If it isn't leaking (or leaked), it's anybody's guess if it will fail. Still a very good idea to install the "fix" from Kennedy. It will prevent the known issue. It's only a piece installed in the pump housing. The TC, if it hasn't been ran dry, should not need an overhaul.

Other than that, you should give the entire truck a very close inspection. Look for anything unusual. Such as, the aluminum A/C lines running across the upper radiator support can chafe and rupture (bummer in the summer). A piece of split hose or a couple layers of electrical tape will usually take care of that.

[JohnnyR]

How does one clean the cooling stack? I didn't see an easy way to get between the radiator and oil cooler. Or do you just use air or a water hose blowing from one side to the other of the cooling stack?

[DmaxMaverick]

How does one clean the cooling stack? I didn't see an easy way to get between the radiator and oil cooler. Or do you just use air or a water hose blowing from one side to the other of the cooling stack?


Disconnect hoses and lines (except the A/C lines), remove the upper radiator support, and move them as necessary to clean between and through them. It isn't as laborious as it sounds. One good afternoon is plenty to do a thorough job. It's also a good time to replace radiator hoses, etc. If the radiator is scaled internally, it's also a good time to get it addressed. At the very least, they need to be cleaned between the fins, and at the lower support, where most of the junk accumulates.

[richp]

Hi,

Great input from you guys. Gonna print this thread out and use it as a punch list.

Thanks a lot.

Rich

[Mark Rinker]

What kind of shape is your driver's seat in?

At 27XK, my 2002 seat is still intact (no holes) but butt springs are really sagging and I can't stay in this truck without a lower back ache.

Time for a new seat out of wreck, I think...

[DmaxMaverick]

For not much $$, you can have the seat "repadded/resprung" by an upholster. A good upholster will know what to do. I'd suggest this if the cover is still in good shape. The end result will be better than what you had fail before, for less money, and it'll last your lifetime.

[richp]

Hi Mark,

Seat is in good shape.

The bad news is that yesterday I brought the new fifth wheeler over to the house to install the solar panels from the old trailer. When I was done, I was careless in hitching up and -- after probably thousands of times doing this -- forgot to check to see the hitch was latched.

Fifty feet down the street, Kawumph!!! Trailer sitting on the sides of the bed. Not squashed like a bug, exactly, but three estimates all are over $3,500 on a truck that probably isn't worth three times that.

So I guess I'm going to have to go back to square one in my thinking....

Have a good one.

Rich

[Mark Rinker]

Ouch. Sounds like no personal injury, hurt pride mends easily.

You might find a complete take-off box and have it painted to match for less - what is your truck color?

I left a gooseneck trailer hitch unlatched an entire work day with heavy loads on and off the trailer, but got lucky and never had it jump off the ball. Winter time deal, cold and snow covered, thought the pin had engaged, but it didn't due to ice in the mechanism. I am really careful and check twice, now. Years ago, had a 2 5/16" bumper hitch trailer jump of a 2" ball that had been flipped over the weekend for boating, and not flipped back on Monday morning for the work trailer. No big damage, but a scary experience, nonetheless...I grabbed the trailer brakes when I felt/heard it go, and kept it off the truck until the very last STOP against/under the bumper...thank goodness for safety chains.

[Mark Rinker]

For not much $$, you can have the seat "repadded/resprung" by an upholster. A good upholster will know what to do. I'd suggest this if the cover is still in good shape. The end result will be better than what you had fail before, for less money, and it'll last your lifetime.

I tried that approach once, didn't have good results. Probably materials used or workmanship of upholsterer...good idea even takeout seats from wrecks tend to be BIG bucks it would seem like they'd be in ready supply.

[richp]

Hi Mark,

I have a routine that I (until yesterday) always follow. Get out of the truck after backing under the pin box. As I walk by, slam the handle to make sure it's engaged, and flip the safety latch. When I plug in the power, I take the break-away cable, and latch it into the hole in the safety latch. That way, I've essentially checked it twice before I even start to raise the front legs.

Yesterday, for some reason, I skipped not one, but both steps, raised the legs, and off I went. For about 50 feet.

Live and learn, even at my advanced age....

Have a good one.

Rich