Injection pump timing

[joe bleaux]

Since my 6.2 is down, it gives me great impetus to complete the timing chain and balancer on my '98 6.5td.

The old chain had lots of slop. I looked at the scribe markS on the chain cover and the i/p. One can visibly see that the i/p is canted toward the passenger's side. It is difficult to tell just how many degrees.

Can I simply put it all back together and do a re-learn procedure with koko?

Thanks

Joe

[joe bleaux]

I could use some help on this one.

Thanks

Joe



Since my 6.2 is down, it gives me great impetus to complete the timing chain and balancer on my '98 6.5td.

The old chain had lots of slop. I looked at the scribe markS on the chain cover and the i/p. One can visibly see that the i/p is canted toward the passenger's side. It is difficult to tell just how many degrees.

Can I simply put it all back together and do a re-learn procedure with koko?

Thanks

Joe

[Bnave95]

Seeing how you are just remove and replaceing the same pump. Just make sure the scribs are inline. No need to redo timing but with a new chain you sahould have it checked with a Tech II.

[joe bleaux]

Bnave95,

Thank you but I have not removed the i/p. I replaced the timing chain, balancer, water pump, crank position sensor, thermostats and a few other things.

The problem is that since the old timing chain was very loose, I am ASSUMING that the pump has been rotated to compensate for the old, loose chain.

Further complicating the issue is that I cannot see AN ORGINAL mark on either the pump or the housing. There are several marks on the housing and none look original.

I was hoping to put the thermostat manifold on today which, I think, would prevent i/p adjustment.

Joe


Seeing how you are just remove and replaceing the same pump. Just make sure the scribs are inline. No need to redo timing but with a new chain you sahould have it checked with a Tech II.

[DmaxMaverick]

If the pump has been rotated to compensate for chain wear, it'll have to be moved back or it will be too advanced. Possibly advanced so far as to move it outside the electronic adjustment window.

My suggestion, until you can time it properly with a Tech II, is to retard the timing a bit (about 1/16" at the scribe mark area), and test run it. It should be close enough to get it running and have some idea where you are. If it rattles too much, retard it a bit more. If it seems "flat", advance it a bit. If it tries to "kick back" on the compression when trying to start (pre-ignition), retard it some more. Other than that, the PCM will compensate for most of it once it's in the operating window. Then, at your soonest convenience, time it and set the TDCO with a Tech II.

[joe bleaux]

Great, Dmax. Just in time info before starting to put it back together.

Thanks

joe


If the pump has been rotated to compensate for chain wear, it'll have to be moved back or it will be too advanced. Possibly advanced so far as to move it outside the electronic adjustment window.

My suggestion, until you can time it properly with a Tech II, is to retard the timing a bit (about 1/16" at the scribe mark area), and test run it. It should be close enough to get it running and have some idea where you are. If it rattles too much, retard it a bit more. If it seems "flat", advance it a bit. If it tries to "kick back" on the compression when trying to start (pre-ignition), retard it some more. Other than that, the PCM will compensate for most of it once it's in the operating window. Then, at your soonest convenience, time it and set the TDCO with a Tech II.