Rear oil cooler line fitting on block leads where?

[trbankii]

In taking things apart to work on my clutch, I found that my oil cooler lines were in pretty sorry shape as well. Picked up the Lubrication Specialist replacement lines, so had to do some surgery to the exhaust manifold flange as has been noted by others.

Unfortunately, my tape over the rear oil cooler port in the block came off while I was grinding without me realizing it. I've used a rag and solvent to wipe out what grit I could, but I'm wondering what is the best way to flush things out? From the fitting, where does the flow travel? I don't want to flush things further into the engine if that is where it will go from there...

[simon]

. one line is outflow other line is inflow,pull the shutoff solenoid wire and find out by cranking engine wich one is outflow, if that is the dirty nipple just flush it by pumping a quart oil out.if it is the inflow nipple thats dirty, it might go strait to the bearings. i dont know a sure solution to that, try a small pipe cleaner to pull the grind out,just dont push it in furter or try with a 1/4" magnet rod

[Hubert]

Look here http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=930&ppuser=18766

The rear goes to cooler front from cooler. Then goes to filter. But on initial start could bypass either. There are a couple plugs at ends of cores or drill paths you could blow in maybe depending on how much grit is there. Of course best one would be behind flywheel to blow into for expelling out port (the rear one). Not sure others would help. If it were return line you could blow up through port coming to filter - the outer hole (not the filter knipple).

In this case its the port going to cooler so with line off just cranking not starting would just purge out the port pretty safe.

[trbankii]

try with a 1/4" magnet rod

That sounds like the best bet - I doubt much got in and doubt that it traveled far. Have to see what I can come up with that fits in there.

Thanks!

[trbankii]

Simon,

Many thanks for suggesting the magnet. You definitely saved my bacon! Take a look at the attached photo.

This is one of those extendable pencil magnets you can get at Harbor Freight and such. I stuck that in and moved it around - about six times until I wasn't getting any more grit.

Then I dug around in my drawers and cubbies and came up with a dozen small magnets from some computer application. Stuck them all in a piece of heat shrink tubing and shrunk it slightly to hold them all in place. Ran that into the passage and collected a bit more fine grit.

My engine definitely thanks you!

Thomas

[simon]

glad to be of help, hope you got all of it.[grit]

i keep a whole box full of these plastic caps of all sizes on hand [ the ones you find on new hydr parts] handy to plug holes like in your case to keep dirt out.

[trbankii]

Quite frankly, I'm a bit amazed at how much crap got into the hole. I had put a piece of tape over the whole before grinding. But I guess because of the oily surface it quickly peeled right back off and I didn't notice it between the cramped position, safety goggles, and such.

I feel pretty confident that I cleaned things out adequately at this point.

[trbankii]

Ok, while we are putting things back together here...

I decided to replace the lines while replacing my clutch because everything is so much easier to access without the bellhousing and transmission in place - that and when I looked up in there it was pretty obvious that things were leaking.

In taking it all apart, there also seemed to be a fair amount leaking from the oil filter adapter (4WD truck). The Lubrication Specialist kit I purchased had part numbers to replace the three o-rings in the adapter while you had everything apart. Only thing was that in disassembling the adapter, I only found one o-ring - the big one where the filter threads on.

Playing around with things and judging by sizes, the two arrows indicate where I put the other two o-rings on the piece that threads through the adapter and into the block. They make some amount of sense for needing something to seal in these places and they were the only two places that came close to fitting the supplied o-rings. At the bottom arrow, there was a bronze/copper washer but no o-ring.

Do I have it right? Or do they go some other place?

[diesel65]

A previous owner must have tried to reseal the adapter, I just looked at a new housing and the small o-ring goes in the first groove (next to the threads)of the bolt, the other o-ring is installed in the housing.
If you look where the head of the bolt would be, you should see a groove.
GM does not use a copper washer under the head of the bolt.
The third o-ring you already know where it goes.

[simon]

Ok, while we are putting things back together here...

I decided to replace the lines while replacing my clutch because everything is so much easier to access without the bellhousing and transmission in place - that and when I looked up in there it was pretty obvious that things were leaking.

In taking it all apart, there also seemed to be a fair amount leaking from the oil filter adapter (4WD truck). The Lubrication Specialist kit I purchased had part numbers to replace the three o-rings in the adapter while you had everything apart. Only thing was that in disassembling the adapter, I only found one o-ring - the big one where the filter threads on.

Playing around with things and judging by sizes, the two arrows indicate where I put the other two o-rings on the piece that threads through the adapter and into the block. They make some amount of sense for needing something to seal in these places and they were the only two places that came close to fitting the supplied o-rings. At the bottom arrow, there was a bronze/copper washer but no o-ring.

Do I have it right? Or do they go some other place?Small o rings go in the grooves on each side of the side hole in the bolt . the copper washer is a must to prevent leaks at the bolt head and to prevent gauging of the mating surface between the bolt head and the aluminum adapter

[trbankii]

Not sure I understand you, Simon. Do you mean the two grooves between the upper arrow and the holes that come out the sides of the shaft below that?

The two small o-rings are different sizes. The one is only large enough to go to where the upper arrow points - it would not go over the next step to go further down the shaft. The other one is large enough that it will sit down at the bottom of the shaft, but would not "stay put" on those grooves.

Diesel65, so you're saying that the o-ring I have at the upper arrow is in the right place. But the o-ring at the lower arrow should be fitted to the adapter instead of on the shaft?

Based on the amount of leaking, I'm only happy that I'm fixing this and that something catastrophic didn't happen before I got to it! I'd definitely agree that the PO jury-rigged things.

[JohnC]

I have a vague recollection of a design change, or service bulletin, or something. I think the bolt in the picture is the old style, and had only the washer and maybe one o-ring. The later design has no washer and 3 o-rings.

I think...

[trbankii]

I have to admit to being at somewhat of a loss as to why the PO removed the o-rings. I can understand not going to the trouble to replace them, but to remove them and not put anything in their place...

Here is a diagram I was able to find - seemingly showing the washer at the bottom and the two o-rings in the grooves? But, of the three o-rings I was given, the two smaller ones are different sizes. Unless I was given the wrong part numbers for my application.

[trbankii]

Also found this picture which shows a much different adapter and shaft. Perhaps I got the o-rings for this one as it looks like there are two sizes of o-rings here for the one on the shaft and the other inside the adapter body.

[trbankii]

Ok, finally got it sorted out - I think...


Early 6.5L engine used the same block casting as the 6.2L diesel and, as such, retains some 6.2L
components such as the oil filter adapter and oil filter adapter bolt. The oil filter adapter assembly has
a number of seals and O-rings that are different between the two variations.


6.5L Oil Filter Adapter Seal Kit (1 medium and 1 small O-ring)
6.2L Oil Filter Adapter Seal Kit (2 medium O-rings and 1 copper Gasket)

So I have the 6.5L o-rings and need the 6.2L o-rings...

[simon]

yea you got it right, i was giving advice by recollection,as i have both styles on my trucks.
has been a while since i done one, sorry for confusing you

[trbankii]

No harm - just a bit of a pain to get it all figured out. Picked up the proper o-rings and a new copper washer and I'm headed out to the shop to stick it all back together.