83 6.2L fuel filter

[joe bleaux]

Hi, EWC and thanks for your trouble.

Well, this filter plate is leading a tad from the bleed valve. You unscrew the plastic knob and it is supposed to bleed air from the fuel system, as it is turning over or running. Mine is not bad but it does leak just a little.

The best practice is to just replace it, as I am sure that you will agree.

Joe


Joe , I took a look at the filters today . From what I can see , the 82-83 vans had a primary and a secondary fuel filter . The van I took this off of did have a primary filter under the van at the rear . This must be the secondary filter that I have and is about 3/4 the size of the regular truck filter . Is yours leaking from one of the sensors ? There was a thread about this and the fix was to put an set screw in place of the sensor . Does this sound correct ?

[DmaxMaverick]

If it's leaking out the bleed valve, replace the O-ring on the bleeder. The same for the water drain. (unless the housing is cracked, of course)

I know of several trucks driving around for years with J-B Weld on cracked filter assy's. I wouldn't do it, or recommend it, but it seems to work, sometimes it seems.

[joe bleaux]

There are TWO DRAINS on this thing? I am talking about the one on the top left corner. It seems to be missing some internals, I 'm not sure.

Thanks, DMax.



Joe



If it's leaking out the bleed valve, replace the O-ring on the bleeder. The same for the water drain. (unless the housing is cracked, of course)

I know of several trucks driving around for years with J-B Weld on cracked filter assy's. I wouldn't do it, or recommend it, but it seems to work, sometimes it seems.

[DmaxMaverick]

The one on top is the bleeder. It should have a small (1/8") nipple to the side of it, which normally (OEM) has a length of plastic tubing on it. The plastic bleeder "plug" at the top should also have an O-ring. If the O-ring is missing, hard or cracked, it can/will leak. The same goes for the "plug" at the bottom, which is the water drain (if the bottom plug isn't leaking, don't mess with it). This filter should be between the lift pump and injector pump, which means it is under pressure during engine operation. If your system has a second filter, it should be between the tank and lift pump, and under suction (just FYI, 84 and earlier should have a two filter setup). I'm not aware of any but one size of the Stanadyne 80 series filter assy's, the square one you have. The others have cylindrical elements.

Be careful with the bleeder plugs. They are, obviously, old and can be brittle. Break one, and good luck finding a replacement. With a good O-ring on them, they should be only finger tight to seal well.

This line of discussion doesn't really belong in the class ad forum. We'll get it in the right forum as soon as you get your issue figured out.

[joe bleaux]

Thanks, Dmax,

Yes, there is a nipple with hose on the top left plug/knob.

I can take it off or unloosen it and nothing comes out that is why I say some 'internals' of it are missing. It will leak a drop or so with or without the know turned.

Now, if the bottom 'plug' is a water drain and you day "don't mess with it", how do you drain the water?

There is only this filter on the van, not including the internal tank filter.

I do have a Racor that I am going to install- much more quickly after I get over this dilemma.

Oh, is there an old style and new style of fuel shut off solenoid?

Joe


The one on top is the bleeder. It should have a small (1/8") nipple to the side of it, which normally (OEM) has a length of plastic tubing on it. The plastic bleeder "plug" at the top should also have an O-ring. If the O-ring is missing, hard or cracked, it can/will leak. The same goes for the "plug" at the bottom, which is the water drain (if the bottom plug isn't leaking, don't mess with it). This filter should be between the lift pump and injector pump, which means it is under pressure during engine operation. If your system has a second filter, it should be between the tank and lift pump, and under suction (just FYI, 84 and earlier should have a two filter setup). I'm not aware of any but one size of the Stanadyne 80 series filter assy's, the square one you have. The others have cylindrical elements.

Be careful with the bleeder plugs. They are, obviously, old and can be brittle. Break one, and good luck finding a replacement. With a good O-ring on them, they should be only finger tight to seal well.

This line of discussion doesn't really belong in the class ad forum. We'll get it in the right forum as soon as you get your issue figured out.

[DmaxMaverick]

Yes. There is an updated fuel shutoff solenoid. The later version should have a hex bolt head on the top, vice the socket (allen) head on the older. (IIRC)

The vans may be (and likely are, to some degree) different in regards to the filter setups. Little exposure and many years leaves me with no clear picture of it.

This is getting a bit confusing. Do you have a leak? Or are you not getting fuel. You've said both in this thread.

If your bleeder is not "bleeding" fuel, then there is no fuel pressure. It should have some fuel escaping if there is pressure. Perhaps you have the in/out lines reversed? The filter has a check valve in it, and would prevent flow if they are backward. Reverse the lines and try again (for lack of a better suggestion now). Also, verify you do in fact have a functioning fuel pump, and of course, fuel.

I suggest you don't mess with the drain for good reasons. The plug may be seized in the threads. Removing (or attempting to) may break it. The filters are easy to replace, and not too expensive. If you suspect water, replace the filter. Don't mess with trying to drain it. 9 times out of ten, if the WIF lamp comes on, it's a plugged filter, and there's no water, anyway. It's not worth messing with the drain. Just replace the filter.

If you would like, I can merge this thread with one of your other threads, or make it a new one in the correct forum. This a good discussion, and should continue until you get it resolved.

[joe bleaux]

Thanks, Dmax for all of this good info.

I am going to buy a fuel shut-off solenoid tomorrow and I wanted to get the latest and best.

Yes, I do have a small leak and I am getting fuel to the INPUT of the i/p but I don't think any further into the pump due to what I suspect and have been told, a faulty fuel shut off solenoid.

No lines have been removed so they can't be reversed. I really do think that the bleeder valve is defective and I do have fuel going to the pump but none coming out of the bleeder other than a very small leak. That same small leak concerned me at first as I thought there may have been air in the system. Now, I just think there is not fuel getting past the solenoid.

I have bypassed the filter completely by attaching a clear hose with small inline filter from the regular filter input to its output. In other words, the input of the filter plate is going to the output of the plate.

Actually, the bleeder is ancillary to my huge problem of not being able to start the engine.

Yes, a new thread may be the best thing, in the 6.2 section, if you agree.

I sure would like to find a pictorial on how to replace this solenoid if you know where one is.

Thank you.


Joe





Yes. There is an updated fuel shutoff solenoid. The later version should have a hex bolt head on the top, vice the socket (allen) head on the older. (IIRC)

The vans may be (and likely are, to some degree) different in regards to the filter setups. Little exposure and many years leaves me with no clear picture of it.

This is getting a bit confusing. Do you have a leak? Or are you not getting fuel. You've said both in this thread.

If your bleeder is not "bleeding" fuel, then there is no fuel pressure. It should have some fuel escaping if there is pressure. Perhaps you have the in/out lines reversed? The filter has a check valve in it, and would prevent flow if they are backward. Reverse the lines and try again (for lack of a better suggestion now). Also, verify you do in fact have a functioning fuel pump, and of course, fuel.

I suggest you don't mess with the drain for good reasons. The plug may be seized in the threads. Removing (or attempting to) may break it. The filters are easy to replace, and not too expensive. If you suspect water, replace the filter. Don't mess with trying to drain it. 9 times out of ten, if the WIF lamp comes on, it's a plugged filter, and there's no water, anyway. It's not worth messing with the drain. Just replace the filter.

If you would like, I can merge this thread with one of your other threads, or make it a new one in the correct forum. This a good discussion, and should continue until you get it resolved.