No fuel return from injectorpump HELP.

[joe bleaux]

Doggone it, 'when it rains, it pours'.

My old faithful '84 van with 6.2 n.a. stopped serving me. I need it badly.

I have bypassed the rectangular filter with clear hose with a small filter in the middle. This hose goes from the input to the regular filter to the output of the regular filter. Got great and voluminous flow.

Now, there is no flow from the fuel return on top of the i.p.

I hooked 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid and I can hear a very, very slight click if no birds are chirping and the wind is slow.

This i.p. is in the most terrible place that they could put it for access.

Any hints? What would a shutoff solenoid cost from a supplier and what supplier? Rockauto doesn't list one.

Is there a foolproof way to tell that it is, indeed,the fuel shutoff solenoid other than replacement?:confused:

Thanks for any and all ideas.

Joe

[joe bleaux]

No help at all?

I could use some 'guessing' here.:D

Thanks.

Joe

[oldmechanic]

remove the the fitting the return hose goes on from the top of ip & see if it is plugged
if it is there is there is a seal in the ip that is going bad, if the engine will run with fitting removed you can knock the check ball& spring out of fitting &it will get you by untill you can replace ip
OM

[joe bleaux]

Thanks,Oldmechanic.

I will try that. I am desperate for this thing to run.


Joe

I will report back.


remove the the fitting the return hose goes on from the top of ip & see if it is plugged
if it is there is there is a seal in the ip that is going bad, if the engine will run with fitting removed you can knock the check ball& spring out of fitting &it will get you by untill you can replace ip
OM

[Robyn]

You dont necessararily see fuwl return unless the engine is running.

If the truck will not start you may indeed have a faulty fuel shutoff solenoid..

Try unhooking one of the injector lines and then cranking the engine.
You should see fuel coming from the line when the engine is cranked.

If there is no fuel coming from tjhe injector line then is can be the solenoid thats not working.

To replace the solenoid the top must come off the IP.
The procedure to replace these is posted here at TDP.

In servicing a fuel solenoid on one of these Ip's you need to be very certain that the new one is in correctly and that the linkage is properly set.
If things are not dome corectly a runaway condition can happen with no way to shut it off.

Not meant to scare you but simply a caution to be careful when working on the IP.

Good luck

Robyn

[joe bleaux]

Thanks, Robyn.

I already loosened several injector pipes and nary a drop after much turning over.

Is there a diagram or picture of the top inside of the i/p (cover removed) anywhere?

I do appreciate the warning about "runaway" I had a diesel generator that the fuel pump (old-style) leaked into the oil pan and it began to runaway.
Luckily, I was right there and shut off the air. It was scary.

Do you know of a cheap source for these solenoids?

Thanks a lot

Joe





You dont necessararily see fuwl return unless the engine is running.

If the truck will not start you may indeed have a faulty fuel shutoff solenoid..

Try unhooking one of the injector lines and then cranking the engine.
You should see fuel coming from the line when the engine is cranked.

If there is no fuel coming from tjhe injector line then is can be the solenoid thats not working.

To replace the solenoid the top must come off the IP.
The procedure to replace these is posted here at TDP.

In servicing a fuel solenoid on one of these Ip's you need to be very certain that the new one is in correctly and that the linkage is properly set.
If things are not dome corectly a runaway condition can happen with no way to shut it off.

Not meant to scare you but simply a caution to be careful when working on the IP.

Good luck

Robyn

[joe bleaux]

ALSO, I am hurting so badly to use this thing for a day or two, I am wondering if there is some spray or air-pressure that I can inject into the fuel input of the i/p in order to hopefully un-stick the fuel shutoff solenoid in case it is the problem?

I also have some very good penetrating oil but wouldn't want to use it on plastic or rubber unless for a very short while. I just don't know the internal make-up of the i/p.

Rest assured that I realize that the above is a Rube Goldberg suggestion and I would lever leave it that way if it does run. That would only bite me another day.

This 6.2 is in a van it will not be a quick job to replace the solenoid. Also, while I do have the top of the i/p off, is there anything else in there that I could/should replace.

Thanks very much.

Joe


Thanks, Robyn.

I already loosened several injector pipes and nary a drop after much turning over.

Is there a diagram or picture of the top inside of the i/p (cover removed) anywhere?

I do appreciate the warning about "runaway" I had a diesel generator that the fuel pump (old-style) leaked into the oil pan and it began to runaway.
Luckily, I was right there and shut off the air. It was scary.

Do you know of a cheap source for these solenoids?

Thanks a lot

Joe

[Robyn]

If this is the case then the shut off solenoid is not working. This is a Stanadyne part and will need to come from a GM dealer or a Stanadyne shop.

The cover has to come off the IP. There is a description of how to get at this little creature in the members area.

If you have a GM service manual it will show the procedure.

Best

Robyn

[joe bleaux]

Thanks, for this info., Robyn.

I have the 1984 service manual but I must have missed the part about taking the top cover from the i/p.

Also, what does membership buy one? I see books for sale and don't know if those are included in the membership as online, downloadable files/books.

Robyn, you are a veritable treasure.

Joe

quote=Robyn;237155]If this is the case then the shut off solenoid is not working. This is a Stanadyne part and will need to come from a GM dealer or a Stanadyne shop.

The cover has to come off the IP. There is a description of how to get at this little creature in the members area.

If you have a GM service manual it will show the procedure.

Best

Robyn[/quote]

[Robyn]

A membership buys one a buttload of highly technical articles and informative material.

All the stuff one could ever need or want to diagnose and or rebuild one of these little monsters.

The small cash outlay is worth every penny.


To find so much material is one place and have it be reliable is a hard thing to find.

The shop manual come to think of it may not show this procedure.
The GM shops generally just replaced the IP as a unit and let the rebuilders or??? sweat it.

I have had my fingers into many of these little creatures starting back in about 83 shortly after they hit the trail.

Owned many 6.2's from 82 to 91 and 6.5's from 93-95 models.

I know the info you seek is in the members area AS I have seen it.

Best

Robyn

[DmaxMaverick]

I've seen it in the member's area, too. Just can't remember where. Perhaps Jim can help. Otherwise, the search feature works well. Be careful, though. You may find yourself getting sidetracked with all the good stuff you'll find, and forget what you went there for. At any rate, best 20 bucks a year you'll spend for anything.

[joe bleaux]

Okay, I took Robyn's and your advice and signed up. I just hope they can rush it through.

Joe


I've seen it in the member's area, too. Just can't remember where. Perhaps Jim can help. Otherwise, the search feature works well. Be careful, though. You may find yourself getting sidetracked with all the good stuff you'll find, and forget what you went there for. At any rate, best 20 bucks a year you'll spend for anything.

[joe bleaux]

"They" did rush it through. Thanks, "they"

Joe


Okay, I took Robyn's and your advice and signed up. I just hope they can rush it through.

Joe