Reassembly / reinstall questions- help please

[fastboat]

I've spent many hours looking around TDP ( I must say I'm impressed with the quality and volume of info) and reading the Haynes manual, but I knew I would have to post a few questions eventually. I would really appreciate any advice here. I had the engine (94 6.5) down to rotating assembly only, and now I'm headed back in the other direction. I was very careful to not move either shaft when the timing chain & gears were off. Then when I was reinstalling, I thought I bumped the cam a hair, so I turned it back the same hair and continued. I have this nagging feeling that I'm off one tooth on the cam timing gear, however when I reinstalled the pump gear, the dots lined up perfectly like when I disassembled.:D Since there is a woodruff key in both shafts, and the two gears are lined up again (dots are spot on) doesn't that mean I'm OK? The two gears on the cam can't be off from one another by design, right? So if I'm pretty sure I'm at TDC on #1, and the dots line up, then the cam and crank should be static timed properly as well, no? I put a mark across the pump and cover with a chisel before disassembly and they are lined up also. I don't have any kind of Tech tool, so I was planning on taking it to the dealer for computer timing. I've read everything I can find about the KOKO and TDCO relearn, etc., but I just can't get my head around it.:confused: Once I know the thing runs I'll start a new post about what numbers to have them set it for (I have a chip, exhaust, etc).

So how many of you picked up on the "pretty sure" above with respect to TDC on #1?? NEXT QUESTION:
Without any kind of dial gauges or anything, is there a way to check static timing with certainty? I am doing this for the first time and as such I am being very methodical. I was at #1 TDC when I disassembled, and other than the issue above, I'm quite sure there was no movement. Things look very much the same now that it's back together. I am at TDC on #1, the dots are lined up, and I can see the timing stud on the pump through the oil fill hole in the front cover. But there's that nagging feeling of uncertainty being this is the first time doing this. I'd rather do a little more checking now than find out after it's back in that I'm screwed. Is there a check that is easier or more accurate with the heads on?

The truck has been sitting for about 14 months. Any special concerns to watch out for? I stabilized what fuel was left at the time of parking, and I plan to mix in fresh fuel with Cetane boost and Marvel's prior to refire. Can I just start cranking, or should I try to prime the fuel system to some extent first? I think I saw in one post some talk about lifters not coming back after sitting for a while? I really didn't want to get into them, but if you guys feel it is vital please let me know. The theory of "I'm in this far, I might as well do x,y, and z" has already added way to much $$ :( to this project that began as a head gasket job, so I'm trying to hold tight at this point.

Last question has to do with dropping it back in:
How much can you reasonably bolt back on while it is on the stand and still expect to be able to reach everything you need to tighten? I had the heads off when I pulled it, and even at that I had a hard time reaching some of the bolts at the top of the bellhousing and other stuff near the firewall:mad: I'd really like to put the heads on first, because it is so much easier to work on the stand than under the hood!! Experiences here would be much appreciated.

I'm sorry to be so long winded, but I wanted to be specific with my questions. Thanks very much for any help you can provide.
Dave

[ronniejoe]

The dot on the injection pump drive gear (cam mounted) lines up with the dot on the driven cam sprocket (cam mounted). However, the fact that the pump drive gear and driven gear (pump mounted) have the dots aligned doesn't mean that the cam driven sprocket and crank drive sprocket dots are aligned. The pump can be rotated to whatever position you want relative to the cam/crank to get the alignment. If you are not sure, your best bet would be to pull the front back off and check. Better now than later.

The engine installs easily (Ha! I'd like to get my hands on the engineers who designed this installation) with the heads, manifolds and accessories installed (minus the A/C compressor and PS pump if you left them in the truck with hoses connected when you removed the engine). Don't mount the turbo. It restricts your movement too much.

Here's a tip... Remove the engine mounts from the frame cross member and attach them to the brackets on the engine while on the stand. It is very difficult to get the brackets to go down around the mounts when lowering the engine if you don't. It is fairly easy to get the three bolts on each side that attach the mounts to the frame compared to doing it the other way.

If you need more clearance for the top two bell housing bolts, remove the transmission mount and lower the back end a little. This will give some room to reach the top two from under the truck.

[Robyn]

I agree almost 100% WITH RJ here.
I did my 94 Burb a while back.

The cam gear has a dot on it as does the crank gear, the cam gears mark will be facing down and the crank gears mark will be facing up, simply line these up with a straight edge to make sure your static cam timing is correct. If you cant get these to line up straight up and down you are off a tooth one way or another

The part about the pump timing and its gear is fine.
Now if you scribed the pump and the cover so you can line these back up nice you will be almost perfect on IP timing. Mine was within 1 Degree when I had the TDC offset checked and who knows where it was before I got the truck.

Leave the exhaust manifolds off and you can get at things much easier around the engine. Same goes for all the serp drive stuff too. Bolt it back on after the engine is all bolted into the truck.

Dropping the back of the tranny down on the crossmember will indeed give you the room you need. I left my mounts on the frame and just a little wiggle dropped the engine right in place.

I left the glow relay and the fuel filter off to allow room to get the two top bell housing bolts installed.

You can have everything on the top of the engine (Intake and such) all buttoned up.

As far as the startup goes, I would do this.

Get everything ready to go and leave the glow plugs out.

Activate the fuel lift pump by jumping the lift pump fuse in the junction box ( little plastic box over the AC on the forewall) the fuse is in a little holder on the far RH side of the enclosure.
Lift the clip and slide the fuse asembly out. Touch the center of the fuse to the large power stud ( the fuse has a little slot in the back side right by the amp number)

Bleed the filter and the lines all the way to the IP including the water drain. Do this until you have air free fuel flowing.

Now make sure all is good to go (fillled with oil and such)
With the glows removed as I mentioned crank the engine until you have fuel mist fogging from the glow plug holes.
This will also crank up oil pressure and finish priming the engine.

At this point stand down and install the glow plugs. The LH side is easy.

The right ones are a challenge but removing the RF wheel and the inner fender rubber flap will give you a nice shot at not only the glow plugs but the manifold bolts and the starter wiring too.

The little tubes the cover the center glow plug wires are easy to do. Slide the tube down over the wire as it will go on the engine and then plug the conector on the glow plug and then slide the tube in and replace the nuts.

Be sure to use Never Seaze on all the manifold bolts and nuts.

The rear most glow plug on the RH side must be done from under the truck. Its not bad just takes some eyes in your fingers and a 1/4 drive deep socket and ratchet is all.

Once the plugs are done, you are good for a startup.

The glow plug contoller can some times operate goofy after having power off the sytem for a long time but will return to normal soon. ( The ECM has to reaquaint itself with the CTS numbers and get things right)

Glow the beast and start as normal.
The little monster is going to run a tad crappy for a few minutes until all the air is out.
You may see some rough running and smoke for a few minutes but this should clear out and settle down quickly

Be vigilant and check coolant level frequently as well as for oil leaks and other things while the engine is running.

Be sure to bleed the air out at the top of the T stat housing by the top hose (Little screw thing, open until green squirts out)+
Fill the system until the coolant jug is up to the COLD MARK

Once the engine has run for 5-10 minutes and warmed enough for the cold advance to drop out, you can shut down and recheck the oil, coolant and for any other tag ends that need attention.

Once all is looking good its time for the ROAD TEST :D

Watch your coolant temp and oil pressure very well for the first few miles to be sure there are no anomalies.

Temp should stabilize quickly and your oil pressure should be about 40 or so running along and idle at 20+ when hot.

As long as things are looking good there is no real need to baby this thing.

Run it about 250-500 Miles of normal driving and then change the oil and filter and yooooos be good ta go. :)

I would be watching the coolant hoses for the first week or so as these can loosen up from the first few duty cycles and the clamps may need a twist or two to seat them well.

Watch for any oil leaks that might pop up as the first few days go by.

Good luck and have fun

Robyn

[fastboat]

ronniejoe,
Thanks very much for the reply. I'm still not clear on all the gears and how they line up. I thought the only dots were on the angled gears driving the pump. If I'm reading your first sentence correctly, it sounds like there are dots on both gears mounted to the cam (timing sprocket and pump drive gear). I don't remember seeing a dot on the new timing gear. I understand and agree about the pump being able to rotate to get the alignment, but I did put a mark across the top of the pump and cover with a chisel, and they line up perfectly too. Last night I was thinking if the pump drive gear (outermost on the cam) could only go on in one position because of mounting to the timing gear behind it, and the pump gear can only go on in one position because of the little stud on the pump, then they must be in the same positions as when I removed them if the dots line up and the mark on the pump/cover is aligned. Therefore, if all the top gears are aligned as before, and I was off one tooth on the timing chain, then the crank would be off now, wouldn't it? This is how I'm thinking it through, and it seems right as I stand in front of the engine, but I've been wrong on this kind of stuff at least once or twice before.:) which is why I'm looking here for thoughts.

I was looking at the mounts with that same thought, but at first glance it seemed like there were hidden bolts or nuts that I couldn't get to. I'll look again, because I agree it would be easier that way. I took the exhaust manifolds off first because at that point I didn't think I was pulling the block, so I was unsure about them for reinstallation- that is another big help- thanks!!
Dave

[fastboat]

Robyn,
Thanks so very much for taking the time to write such a detailed post! Many important things there that I would not have known otherwise. After all that I hate to ask you anything more, but....;)

It sounds like you and RJ disagree about the manifolds being on prior to dropping in- do you think that primarily has to do with the different engine mount techniques? What else would I have trouble reaching with them in place?

I already have the glow plugs in. No biggie to remove them, but if I do everything you recommend except for cranking until the mist comes though the plug holes, am I really hurting anything, or just dealing with a few extra minutes of crappy running at first? With either method, if it is really rocking at first, should I leave it at idle only, or give a little push on the go pedal?
Thanks again,
Dave