gaskets & torques

[flomulgator]

For some reason I was not allowed to post in "6.2/6.5 tech" so I will try this here. Technically my engine is a 6.5 repower, but since it is in a 91 burb all the attachments are 6.2 (as was the original engine, I'm trying to put in my 3rd!)

Soooo, my new engine core came with the HO water pump and a gasket to attach that to the timing gear plate. But then is there supposed to be a gasket that attaches that plate to the block? The old one is so burnt and old I can't tell if it was just anaerobic sealer or old gasket between the two.

Would you recommend a new plate? (old one has a rubber grommet where the IP meets up, looks good but ???)

Torque: The V-belt crankshaft pulley on to the vibration damper. What is the torque for these long bolts? Both my manuals let me down on both of these questions, and those are only the first two pieces I'm putting on the new block!!! Save me Internet, Save me!!!

[More Power]

For some reason I was not allowed to post in "6.2/6.5 tech" so I will try this here. Technically my engine is a 6.5 repower, but since it is in a 91 burb all the attachments are 6.2 (as was the original engine, I'm trying to put in my 3rd!)

Soooo, my new engine core came with the HO water pump and a gasket to attach that to the timing gear plate. But then is there supposed to be a gasket that attaches that plate to the block? The old one is so burnt and old I can't tell if it was just anaerobic sealer or old gasket between the two.

Would you recommend a new plate? (old one has a rubber grommet where the IP meets up, looks good but ???)

Torque: The V-belt crankshaft pulley on to the vibration damper. What is the torque for these long bolts? Both my manuals let me down on both of these questions, and those are only the first two pieces I'm putting on the new block!!! Save me Internet, Save me!!!

flomulgator,

If you have an "HO" water pump made for a 6.5, it'll need to be swapped for a V-belt water pump made for a 6.2 along with the matching water pump backing plate. The V-belt and serpentine water pumps spin opposite to each other.

GM didn't use a gasket between the aluminum front cover and the engine block. Instead, they used an anaerobic sealer. With perfectly flat new machined surfaces, it works well, but for a rebuilt engine, I prefer to use the gasket that is included in the Fel-Pro kit. This is a thin paper gasket. I use a thin smear of silicone RTV on both sides of the gasket.

Assuming you have or can get the correct one, the flat steel water pump backing plate that fits between the water pump and the aluminum front cover doesn't usually need to be replaced, though I have seen a couple that were pitted pretty badly by coolant (rust) in engines that didn't see adequate coolant service.

With the exception of the exhaust manifold bolts, most 10mm (with a 15mm hex head) bolts on the engine are torqued to 35 ft/lbs - including the four pulley bolts.

Jim

[flomulgator]

If you have an "HO" water pump made for a 6.5, it'll need to be swapped for a V-belt water pump made for a 6.2 along with the matching water pump backing plate. The V-belt and serpentine water pumps spin opposite to each other.


#$@#!!
I'll have to check that. Thanks for the heads up and thanks a bunch for those torque specs. 35 lb/ft is setting "2" on my impact wrench right? :D

I didn't get the Fel-Pro set but the engine is new, so the surfaces should be perfectly flat. If i put as much sealer on there as the last guy did though flat shouldn't matter! It took a crowbar to get the plate off and 30 minutes with a scraper to get rid of the residue.