Injectors and glowplugs in. Now no turbo.

[atom_c]

I got all the rest of the injectors and plugs in today and it started right up. As it warmed up I began to hear a irregular pinging at idle a bit louder than the usual diesel rattle. I had read on other posts of folks having a bit of extra noise after new injectors. I figured I would drive it a bit see if the sound mellows out.

On my test drive I found that I have no turbo. It was working fine boosting up to 10 lbs before I put in new injectors and plugs. I checked for vacuum at the actuator and found enough to suck onto the end of my finger. I suspect the actuator. The linkage moves freely with the engine on and off. I did tweak the actuator and linkage around a bit as I did the injectors.

How can I determine if the actuator is faulty? If I end up having to replace it I might just put my money toward a turbo master. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Adam

[DennisG01]

The linkage moves freely with the engine on and off.

How can I determine if the actuator is faulty?

Sounds like you just did!:) You may want to check your vacuum with a gauge to be sure, but ***assuming*** you have the right amount of vacuum at the actuator, it should be very hard to move the arm when the engine is running.

[Robyn]

You should not be able to move the wastegate linkage with the engine running.
26" HG at the vacuum pump is normal (If the needle flutters the pump is trashed)

good steady vacuum at the waste gate 20"hg or so.
The lines could have a leak or the solenoid over on the LH Vlave cover may have issues.

The turbo master is a nice little device but you need to have a CHIP designed to work with it.

The TM will allow boost that is outside of the parameters of the stock programing and the ECM will start tossing codes and make life miserable.

If you have a larger than stock exhaust then the TM and a chip is a match made in heaven.

Been there done that and love it.
The DaHooooley will cruise nice down the freeway at 3-4 PSI and when romped on will peak at about 10-12 PSI depending on the loading.
The repsonse of the turbo is almost instant off the line with boost climbing to about 5 PSI within a second or two of mashing it.

The TM is very similar to the original controls that the 6.5 had in 92-93
The advantage is that it is adjustable so you can tailor the boost to the chip that you have.

Hope this helps

Robyn

[atom_c]

Thanks for the responses. I just went out and put the vacuum tester on it. I have exactly 20lbs at the actuator at idle. The wastegate actuator is still as floppy as anything.

I have 4" exhaust, gauges, intercooler, and fat afe intake. My turbo (when working) spoools up very quickly to 11lbs when I mash it and then the computer pulls it back down to a max of 10. I have been taking my time getting a chip. I want to keep the little beastie alive!

Robyn, I think I could use your post to good advantage. I will just tell my wife that I have to get the chip with the turbo master or I will get all kinds of codes. Although, I think without getting a chip I could set the boost control to 11 maybe 12 pounds with out getting any codes

I think I will give Heath a call today

Thanks,
Adam

[16gaSxS]

Ok here is the deal. The waste gate controller is controlled by vacuum from a vacuum pump. The lines to the controller are these itty bitty plastic POS lines that break and I could not get from the dealer. The pump fails and the controller fail. Turbo Master about the cost of a vacuum controller and never fails.....priceless. Then guess what you don't need a dumb vacuum pump sucking power off your 6.5 so now it can be trashed use a 1993 belt one inch shorter than 1995 belt. Less stuff to fail!!!

PS; and you can adjust boost with the turn of a nut.
Getting Heaths Chip make a nice runner out of these trucks with a TM.

[atom_c]

Turbo Master and Chip in the mail. Should be here today or tomorrow. Goodbye vacuum apparatus! I have already had issue with the vacuum line and had to replace controller solenoid.

I can't wait to get it installed!

Adam

[atom_c]

I found out why my wastegate actuator quit working! While I was doing my passenger side injectors I chose not to disconnect the driver's side battery. During my work I was startled by sparks flying and some arcing from my loose positive terminal. I grabbed it and taped a plastic bag over it and continued on.

You guessed it? My battery cable torched a 3/16" sized hole in the lower side of the actuator canister. I suppose I could patch the hole, but I think I will finish my turbo master installation.

Lesson learned: disconnect batteries or at least be aware of where I might be arc welding.