Made a big uh-oh I think

[evo rider]

Im currently working on taking the intake manifold off my k5 in my project of re-sealing my drivers side valve cover. As I was loosening the bolt that holds the strap of the primary fuel line it grabbed the fuel line and kinked the metal line about one inch down from where it meets the rubber hose. It started raining really hard so I came inside for the moment. I was wondering if that metal line barbs back into a rubber line before it meets the injector pump or do I need to find a new metal line? Any info helps...Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

Just so I understand what happened.....You were loosening the line retainer clip, and it stuck to the bolt. It twisted with the bolt, and took the tubing with it, causing it to kink or bend. Correct?

The line should be metal tubing from lift pump to IP. Some models I've seen have hose sections (in various places), but they could have been "after OEM". You could cut out that damaged section and replace with fuel hose with double clamps or constant tension clamps, or fab up a new line (not too difficult). You could remove the line and weld a repair section, or even cut out the damaged part and install a coupler (flare or compression fitting) if there's room. Unless you find a place with some NOS (New Old Stock), it isn't likely you'll find the OEM line on anyone's shelf. Maybe check Ebay?

If you kinked it, it will likely crack, now or later, if you try to straighten it without heating. Maybe the freezer trick, but I'd have to see a pic of the damage to tell if it will work. Get me a picture of the damaged line, and I may have an option or two for you.

[evo rider]

That is exactly what happened.

It did crack. I was wondering about cutting it below the kink and then using two hose clamps. That seems the easy rout but I have a relative who might have the metal line. Is this section of line under pressure pushing the fuel into the IP or is it under vaccum?.

[DmaxMaverick]

Low pressure. Should be less than 10 PSI, from the lift pump.

Replacing the entire line would be ideal. However, a hose splice would probably work OK. If there's room for a good cut and clamps, with no problem with chafing, I'd do it. I recommend either constant tension clamps, or double "regular" clamps (2 at each end of the hose). If there is room, a flare/coupler or compression fitting/coupler would be in between the two other options. If it is a straight section, I think I'd opt for the coupler option, which would be a no-maintenance permanent solution.

[evo rider]

I think Ill do the coupler option. I was worried that it would be a manufacture specific size of pipe instead of standard plumbing sizes I.E 1/8th or 1/4 inch. Ill be on later to update. Thanks for the help.

[DmaxMaverick]

That may be an issue. It will either be SAE/AN size, or metric. You can get fittings and/or tubing in either. You may have to hunt for metric. My local hardware store doesn't stock metric, but can order. With low pressure, you can get away with about .5mm undersized with a flare, but the compression fittings have to be exact. For example, if the line is larger than -4, but smaller than -5 (the - number is 1/16", -4=1/4", -5=5/16", etc, standard tube sizing), you can use the -5 fitting and nut. Measure the outside diameter with a dial caliper or micrometer. IIRC, early model tubing was SAE/AN, but later was metric. Good luck getting lucky.

[Robyn]

The ferrul type coupler will work fine. You can also just cut out the bad spot and then crimp on or solder a ferrul and use this to keep a section of fuel hose in place with a couple stainless clamps.

The best tool you can make is to buy a cheap end wrench the size of the bolt head on that stud topped bolt and grind it down so it will fit between the little clamps and the flange on the bolt.
This way you wont screw things up when removal is needed.
The little return lines that bolt to the VC can also see this happen too.

This is not a frantic situation at any rate and repairs can be made in a few minutes no matter which way you decide to go.

Best

Robyn

[evo rider]

I need to correct myself. Its the fuel return line. Found that out when the intake manifold came off yesterday but oh well. I know the store can order metric sizes but its gonna take a week so Im just gonna have to hose clamp it. Thats alright. I found my fuel leak also. Its leaking out of the IP where the throttle assembly is. Are leaks on the IP's fixable??

[wthif]

I've got what you need (I think) and you can have it for the cost of shipping, if PM me your address I will send it out when leave town Saturday.

665