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View Full Version : Changed fuel filter and I can't start it.



johnQ
02-24-2008, 12:05
ok, first of all...I have two filters on my truck I have a Napa pre fuel pump added to my truck. I changed that one and I changed the fuel filter under my hood. I bleed the lines. I even opened up the t valve that is in the front to let more air out. The truck started , but then hit an air pocket from somewhere. I bleed it again in all three parts , but I can't get it to start. Did some air get in the pump and I just need to let it bleed out or do I need to try something else?

BTW....the house that is at the end of the t valve. Does it go connected somewhere else? When I pulled it out it looked like it was just hanging on the side of the engine. I really can't see where it when, but it didn't look like to was hooked up to something.

TIA!!

JFerg65
02-24-2008, 12:48
If you are talking about the hose that is hooked to the bleeder T valve it isn't hooked to anything. I usually pull it out and put it into a jar so I don't get fuel all over the driveway. I didn't do that the first time.... That was a real nice mess to deal with.

johnQ
02-24-2008, 12:53
thank you for the reply. I just put the hose back off to the side. The truck finally cranked. I guess I just needed to crank it enough times to where the all the air finally got out of the pump. Took a while though since I would only crank it twice for about 5 secs then wait 2 minutes. I know those starters heat up real fast if you continually crank it.:)

JFerg65
02-24-2008, 13:24
So are you back up and running?? If so I would let her run a bit just to make sure you work all the bubbles / air out. Better to die in the driveway than 50 miles down the road. Good luck

DmaxMaverick
02-24-2008, 13:47
Welcome aboard, JohnQ!

The "bleeder" hose you are using is not a bleeder. It's the water drain. Using only this to bleed will leave a pocket of air at the top of the filter. You need to open the large plastic bleeder at the top of the filter cap and bleed out the air. Once you have fuel only coming out of that bleeder, the filter will be bled. Disconnect the FSO (Fuel Shut Off) solenoid at the top/front of the IP to prevent air from being pumped through the IP while bleeding. Reconnect the FSO and crank away once bled. It may stumble and puff some white smoke a bit afterward, but the remaining air should purge with a little running.

JFerg65
02-24-2008, 15:44
Oh yeah and don't forget to do that also.... What a dumb a## I am. Sorry about that. It is amazing that something you do on a regular basis goes by the wayside when you are trying to explain by typing away.

Do make sure you put a piece of clear hose on that valve on the top of the fuel filter. Put it in a jar and then you can see when it starts running clear... as in no air bubbles.

WOW... I apologize again for that over sight. It is a good thing we have so many people always looking over our shoulder here ( not in a "big brother" government way however!!)

Robyn
02-24-2008, 16:15
When I do a filter change I firsdt changer the filter/filters than open the air bleed on top of the Stock filter and then operate the lift pump until air free fuel comes from the bleeder.

With my truck I scrapped the stock filter and installed a Racor filter water seperator up along side the ABS setup. I replace the element then remove the deivery line from the top of the IP.
Then with the aid of a helper the lift pump is run and the air purged out of the system.
The line is then connected back to the IP and the truck will start right up with no worries.

Once you start cranking the engine it will allow all sort so air into the IP and generally make it an unhappy little critter until such time that you crank all the air out.

Pre bleeding with the lift pump is by far easier on patience and the equipment (Starter and batteries)

Best

Robyn

JFerg65
02-24-2008, 16:22
Robyn

When you get a chance could you post the racor filter assembly part number?? I remember you talking about that at one time. Every time I go to change the fuel filter, I end up telling myself, "I've got to get that thing relocated!!!"

johnQ
02-24-2008, 19:40
Thank for all the kind help gents. Only in a Chevy forum.;) She is running fine. When I finally got her up.....I left her humming in the drive way for 5 minutes, then did a quick run to my inlaw's house that is a couple of blocks away. Ran fine over and back. Have a great Sunday!! Now if they would only finish that nascar race before I go night night....:(

johnQ
02-24-2008, 19:41
Welcome aboard, JohnQ!

The "bleeder" hose you are using is not a bleeder. It's the water drain. Using only this to bleed will leave a pocket of air at the top of the filter. You need to open the large plastic bleeder at the top of the filter cap and bleed out the air. Once you have fuel only coming out of that bleeder, the filter will be bled. Disconnect the FSO (Fuel Shut Off) solenoid at the top/front of the IP to prevent air from being pumped through the IP while bleeding. Reconnect the FSO and crank away once bled. It may stumble and puff some white smoke a bit afterward, but the remaining air should purge with a little running.

gonna save this in my text file for my truck. NUICE!!!:)