View Full Version : ? about taking my motor apart
7SEC1000
02-17-2008, 22:58
i thought i read on hear somewhere that if you take the heads of you have to buy new head bolts because of the stretch is this true and what else should i expect thanks in advance im gonna put some rings in this beast since it has some blow by and i know top end has been gone through
any advise is welcome:cool:
DmaxMaverick
02-18-2008, 01:22
True. The head bolts are TTY (Torque To Yield), and are not reusable. Fel-Pro is a good brand for the head bolts and gaskets (also not reusable).
Some blowby is normal. I do not suggest pulling the heads before a compression test, and you confirm the compression is, in fact, out of spec. A re-ring job rarely helps remedy blowby. If you replace the rings w/o a bore/hone, it will very likely be much worse. A seasoned cylinder won't seat rings like a fresh cylinder. A very different approach, compared to a gasser. Unless you are replacing broken rings (rare), you will probably be disappointed with the end result.
7SEC1000
02-18-2008, 08:40
well here lies my problem i bought this truck from a guy who told me it had a new motor in it (off ebay) it leaks oil from the oil pan and the oil lines and getting worse it also has blow by coming out of the filler neck and the thing on the pass side valve cover sorta like a pc valve???(by the way the rubber 90 coming off the turbo is not there just a filter on the turbo and a filter on the hose coming from the pc valve thing) and it seems to me as alot of blow by so if some is normal how much is to much..im just mainly aggreviated with the oil leaks and i know when you have blow by you fix 1 oil leak only to get another...thanks for any help you guys can give me
DmaxMaverick
02-18-2008, 11:44
OK. That's important info. You NEED to get a proper intake on your engine. The CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator, aka: PCV) needs to be routed to the intake, between the air filter and turbo. If not, you WILL have higher blowby out the filler pipe. Your best option is to get a 1997-2000 air intake system. The setup you have on there now is not a good option for a daily driver or towing rig. Fine for the track and pulls, but very poor for normal use, and you will see higher blowby. Your engine is probably just fine with a good intake system on it. Like I said, some blowby is normal. Once you get a good intake pipe/filter/CDR on it, it will be normal to see wisps of vapor from the filler. If it chugs vapor, like a locomotive, then you have something to fix. Same with the dipstick tube. At any rate, you won't know anything about it until you get the CDR properly routed.
Fix your leaks as you find them. My guess is your pan leak may be related to the CDR routing. If the vent isn't free flowing, or at a slight vacuum (like when connected to the intake), it will allow the crankcase to develop pressure, and push oil out the pan/block surface (among other places). It can also cause the main seals to leak. If your oil cooler lines are leaking, it is very important to address this ASAP!!! Failing to do so can lead to failure. If that happens, game over (new engine time). Greg Landuyt (www.lubricationspecialist.com) has the best "bolt on" solution, with SS braid lines. New OEM lines will leak again at some time in the future. Don't try to save too much money here, you will regret it.
7SEC1000
02-18-2008, 13:48
thank you very much for the info im gonna try what you said
7SEC1000
02-18-2008, 14:19
" Your best option is to get a 1997-2000 air intake system."
would you recommend a stock application or a upgraded cold air intake and if the upgraded one where would you get it from .thanks
DmaxMaverick
02-18-2008, 15:03
Your choice. I covered it pretty well in the PM I replied to.
7SEC1000
02-18-2008, 15:14
thank you very much you have been a huge help.
Donnie
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