Advice Needed

[Diesel_Wagoneer]

Hello http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/help.gif

I'm as green as grass when it comes to diesel motors but I've jumped in with both feet. I have a jeep wagoneer that I've decided to convert to diesel because for one, living here in Michigan gas on a good day is $2.90 a gallon and second I got a good deal on a 86 Chevy 30 van from my boss. The van was used by a school board and has low miles, and has been sitting on my bosses farm for a couple years.I plan on doing a grease car veggie oil convention on it & using it as a daily driver with 35inch tireshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif and 4.56 or 4.88 axles gearshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/wtf1.gif.

My questions are: Was there a difference between the motors in 1/2 & 3/4 ton's and 1 tons IE: HD model blocks?

What can I expect from this motor ( HP & Torque)?

What should i look for,or beware of?

Should I change the heads to a later casting?

Should I use a 700R4 or is there a better choice?

What are your thoughts on the Veggie convention?

Thanx for or time.

[Rytari]

Hello http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/help.gif

I'm as green as grass when it comes to diesel motors but I've jumped in with both feet. I have a jeep wagoneer that I've decided to convert to diesel because for one, living here in Michigan gas on a good day is $2.90 a gallon and second I got a good deal on a 86 Chevy 30 van from my boss. The van was used by a school board and has low miles, and has been sitting on my bosses farm for a couple years.I plan on doing a grease car veggie oil convention on it & using it as a daily driver with 35inch tireshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif and 4.56 or 4.88 axles gearshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/wtf1.gif.

My questions are: Was there a difference between the motors in 1/2 & 3/4 ton's and 1 tons IE: HD model blocks?

What can I expect from this motor ( HP & Torque)?

What should i look for,or beware of?

Should I change the heads to a later casting?

Should I use a 700R4 or is there a better choice?

What are your thoughts on the Veggie convention?

Thanx for or time.


6.2 engines had some differences during years, but only minor ones, i think biggest difference for you is that more likely 86 g30 van is J model hd engine, 155 hp 285ft-lb rather than 138 hp light duty(if im remembering correct), biggest difference is the Injection pump calibration and some models came without EGR thingy. block is same on those.

if its working correctly i wouldnt start to change heads for it, just look marks for blown gasget/craked head... for this engine condition issue there can be found tons of pots in the forum...

i run my blazer 4.56 and 700r4, i like it better than my old th350 3.08 combo, engine runs more better, cooler and accelerates better 4.88 is better for off road, but if you drive it dayly on road 4.56 will do the job.

veggie and other bio things i dont know a ****, its too damn expensive here to pay a alternative fuel tax here 500€($733) day for using it. and if i get caght its 2 times that for every day i have owned the truck.

[Diesel_Wagoneer]

i run my blazer 4.56 and 700r4, i like it better than my old th350 3.08 combo, engine runs more better, cooler and accelerates better 4.88 is better for off road, but if you drive it dayly on road 4.56 will do the job.


Thanx from the Info:

What's your RPM VS Speed

[Rytari]

1685 rpm @ 55 mph now... 1138@55mph with my old 3.08 gears :) and 700r4

here is nice way to calculate those things http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm

[Petescraft]

Hi, hoping for a little basic knowledge. I picked up 2 early 80's 6.2s. One is an '83 with approx. 120K miles and the other is an 82 with approx. 80K miles. These engines were together in a garage sitting since the early 90's. They both look great, but before I get ready to crank either one of them over, what should I consider? Are there any steps I should take to prepare them for starting like pre-oiling anything?

I'm just looking to avoid any damage to these engines on initial start-up. Thanks.

[Roachie]

That's a great question Petescraft and I wish i had an answer for you.

I have long been an advocate of the theory that a large percentage of the wear a motor suffers, occurs at initial start up....... even for a motor that is fired-up every day. I believe that if a motor could be run 24/7, it would actually wear less.

I only use my Patrol (with the 6.5 Chev diesel donk) about once a week. During the week I just use a small sedan/car for around town.

I would love to fit an additional component to my Amsoil set-up; the pre-charge oiler unit. These are supposed to send an initial quart or so of oil throughout the top end of the motor before start-up.

I'm wondering if anybody has this set-up fitted to their truck/s?

Roachie

[Robyn]

Remove the glow plugs and spin them with the starter and this will allow the engine to spin freely with little effort and the oil pressure to build quickly.

This will also allow you to purge the injection system of any air too.

With the IP energized you can then crank until fuel mist blows out the glow plug holes

At such time the engine will be ready to go. The oil system will be primed too.

Best

Robyn

[Wing Nut OOA]

X2.. thats how i bled my injection lines.

i had my girly crank it over while i tightened the lines after they strarted dripping or misting. it'll fog up like crazy when its ready.

of course...i had the exhaust manifolds off when i did mine :D

[Robyn]

Missy Coughs at the thought :D

RC

[Petescraft]

Thanks for the advice. I hope to get one of the beasts up and started here pretty soon.